t-5 to t-56 swap questions (flywheel and master cylinder)
Thread Starter
Member
iTrader: (6)
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 463
Likes: 0
From: Milwaukee, WI
Car: 1984 z28
Engine: BBC
Transmission: TH400
t-5 to t-56 swap questions (flywheel and master cylinder)
I was just wondering, if I were to swap out my t-5 for a t-56, would I need the T56 sealed master/slave cylinder? And also, would I need to change my flywheel to fit the t-56 clutch assembly or will my old flywheel work fine?
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 18,457
Likes: 16
From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
Yes you need the slave cyl.
Yes you need the right flywheel. The T-5 one will not work. If you have a 2-piece rear main seal motor (as was stock in 84) you will have to have the $special$ adapter flywheel, forged from pure extra virgin singlesourceum.
Yes you need the right flywheel. The T-5 one will not work. If you have a 2-piece rear main seal motor (as was stock in 84) you will have to have the $special$ adapter flywheel, forged from pure extra virgin singlesourceum.
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 998
Likes: 0
From: Tuscaloosa, AL
Car: 91Z, 91RS, '84 Jimmy
Engine: L98, 355, L98
Transmission: 700R, T56, 700R4
The master and slave cylinders themselves are interchangable, but you have to have the braided steel pressure line from the 4th gen setup. You can make the steel line fit the 3rd gen parts with minor filing on the fittings, but it would be easier to just spend the $100 on a full LT1 hydro setup, sealed and pre-bled right out of the box. Then you don't have to worry about leaks or air in the lines....it's just bolt-it-on and go.
If you have a 2-piece RMS engine (like me) then sit down before you start searching for flywheel prices. Those 10,000 year old gnomes charge insane labor rates.
If you have a 2-piece RMS engine (like me) then sit down before you start searching for flywheel prices. Those 10,000 year old gnomes charge insane labor rates.
Thread Starter
Member
iTrader: (6)
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 463
Likes: 0
From: Milwaukee, WI
Car: 1984 z28
Engine: BBC
Transmission: TH400
That was my next question. What if I get the ls1 t56, all the flywheels from jegs and such are for 93-97 t56 (like centerforce) that are for 2 piece rears. Will this work with a ls1 t56?
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 998
Likes: 0
From: Tuscaloosa, AL
Car: 91Z, 91RS, '84 Jimmy
Engine: L98, 355, L98
Transmission: 700R, T56, 700R4
Don't even try to use an LS1 trans. Too much stuff has to be changed. By the time you get the right bellhousing, input shaft, etc. it'll be cheaper and easier to bite the bullet and buy the $400 golden flywheel so that the rest of the LT1 stuff will bolt in.
Since you already have the T-5, you might want to consider the aftermarket T56. It's set up to use the T-5 style clutch and bellhousing, but requires you to shorten the driveshaft and torque arm by 2 inches. It's more expensive than your typical LT1 trans......but then again, your typical LT1 trans is used, and no one drives these cars nicely.
Since you already have the T-5, you might want to consider the aftermarket T56. It's set up to use the T-5 style clutch and bellhousing, but requires you to shorten the driveshaft and torque arm by 2 inches. It's more expensive than your typical LT1 trans......but then again, your typical LT1 trans is used, and no one drives these cars nicely.
Thread Starter
Member
iTrader: (6)
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 463
Likes: 0
From: Milwaukee, WI
Car: 1984 z28
Engine: BBC
Transmission: TH400
Wait wait wait, the ls1 t56 I'm looking at comes complete for the swap, except for the things I need to make the tranfer of course. But you're saying on top of that I'm gonna need a new bellhousing, input shaft, driveshaft, and flywheel???
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 998
Likes: 0
From: Tuscaloosa, AL
Car: 91Z, 91RS, '84 Jimmy
Engine: L98, 355, L98
Transmission: 700R, T56, 700R4
The LS1 bellhousing will not bolt to anything that isn't an LS1 or LS1 derivative (like the 5.3 truck motors.) The input shaft is also different, and the front cover of the tranny case will have to be modified or changed because the mounting points for the hydraulic throwout bearing will interfere with a normal clutch linkage. You could try using the hydro-throwout, but you'll have to take real good measurements and possibly do some fab work to make sure the throwout will operate the clutch fully without overextending itself.....more of a PITA that it's worth IMHO. The driveshaft should work though.
The "complete swap package" is only complete if you're swapping an LS1 car from auto to 6-speed. It won't work for any other type of engine.
The "complete swap package" is only complete if you're swapping an LS1 car from auto to 6-speed. It won't work for any other type of engine.
Trending Topics
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 2,789
Likes: 0
From: NOR CAL USA
Car: 89 iroc-z 5.7tpi 350,
Engine: 5.7tpi 350,
Transmission: T-56
Originally posted by TheGreatJ
The master and slave cylinders themselves are interchangable, but you have to have the braided steel pressure line from the 4th gen setup. You can make the steel line fit the 3rd gen parts with minor filing on the fittings, but it would be easier to just spend the $100 on a full LT1 hydro setup, sealed and pre-bled right out of the box. Then you don't have to worry about leaks or air in the lines....it's just bolt-it-on and go.
If you have a 2-piece RMS engine (like me) then sit down before you start searching for flywheel prices. Those 10,000 year old gnomes charge insane labor rates.
The master and slave cylinders themselves are interchangable, but you have to have the braided steel pressure line from the 4th gen setup. You can make the steel line fit the 3rd gen parts with minor filing on the fittings, but it would be easier to just spend the $100 on a full LT1 hydro setup, sealed and pre-bled right out of the box. Then you don't have to worry about leaks or air in the lines....it's just bolt-it-on and go.
If you have a 2-piece RMS engine (like me) then sit down before you start searching for flywheel prices. Those 10,000 year old gnomes charge insane labor rates.
where did you get those i got my master and slave from kragen and they are not prebled at all and further they are rubber lines
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 998
Likes: 0
From: Tuscaloosa, AL
Car: 91Z, 91RS, '84 Jimmy
Engine: L98, 355, L98
Transmission: 700R, T56, 700R4
Yep. Ordered mine from the local Chevy dealer....I think it was $110 or so after tax (almost 6 years ago.) Dal can probably get it cheaper than the local dealer...or maybe GMPartsDirect.
The line from the reservoir to the master is rubber, because it's not pressurized. The pressure line from the master to the slave is braided stainless.
The line from the reservoir to the master is rubber, because it's not pressurized. The pressure line from the master to the slave is braided stainless.
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 998
Likes: 0
From: Tuscaloosa, AL
Car: 91Z, 91RS, '84 Jimmy
Engine: L98, 355, L98
Transmission: 700R, T56, 700R4
You can't bolt a 700-R4 to an LS1. You can bolt a 4L60-E to it, if it has the correct LS1-style case, but that's as close as you can get.
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...ight=LS1+700r4
There is one of the threads, I cant find the other one yet. Gotta love the
. If you read this one, there is one guy there who actually did it, and in the other there were multiple people who have done it. Its no big deal about the last bolt either, its still solid.
There is one of the threads, I cant find the other one yet. Gotta love the
. If you read this one, there is one guy there who actually did it, and in the other there were multiple people who have done it. Its no big deal about the last bolt either, its still solid. Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
25thannivZ28
Aftermarket Product Review
7
Jan 2, 2016 05:41 PM






