OK so, the tranny *specialists* in my town sold me the .500 valve, the one WITH 2 orings....now......i knew that the stock ones didnt use o-rings so i assumed the .500 ones didnt either....but to much hesitence, i bought it since they SWORE it was the correct part....get home, drop the pan, pull the old out.....slap the new in.....wont quite go in, add a lil force thinking....well...its not TOO well lubed up so ill just give 'er the ole smack....well.....GUESS WHAT!!! THE SUCKER IS STUCK HALFWAY IN.....WONT come out....ive prolly about trahsed the tranny by prying at the sucker for 2 hours chipping away nice lil pieces of the lip of the hole!!


(on a side note, i doubt this trashed the tranny seeing as how the valve goes about half an inch into the hole before the clipp ring will grab the notch inside the hole)

anyways....so is this correcT? do the new .500 valves use o-rings? ive seen ones without o-rings.....but as i stated....i thought a tranny specialist....dealing nothing BUT tranny parts, would know wtf he was talking about....

MAYBE i somehow wedged something.....who knows...in any event, this sucker is WELL stuck, ill prolly have to dril la small hole in the new one to somehow get the bastard out.

I HATE HATE HATE TRANNY WORK OF ANY KIND!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

this comes from aguy who was able to build a rear, install new gears, all from reading 1 article...1 year later, gears still run ....--shrugs-- F YOU TRANNY!

 

The valve with the O-rings are good, but the hole it is going into should be free from burrs & put grease on the valves to hold them in place and for install lubrication. If the valve is still stuck, put the filter on & install pan, fill with fluid, start engine, pull on the TV cable till it is all the way out, and have someone put the vehicle in reverse (with parking brake on). You should hear a loud thump (the main boost valve hitting the pan), stop engine & start all over again on the install. If you are not wanting to reinstall the valve with the O-ring, locate a shop that carrys the valve that does not use O-rings.

 

well i guess i should finish my story here..

i was sitting in my room 4 hours later playing my guitar when it all of a suddon hit me.....loop a piece of .009 guitar string around the end of the valve and yank the sucker out liek a tooth......far fetched idea but it WORKED heh.....using a flat head on 1/2 the side of the valve was just wedging it more...

anyways.....i went and had the o-ring one replace with a non o-ring valve......came home....everything went smoothy....i can now bark the tires just cruising in second gear.

Is the one with the o-rings *better* in any way???

my problem was the piece that goes between the valve and the spring was getting wedged *seeing as how about 4 seperate pieces have to so in ALL at the same time, then recess into the hole about an inch*

so im sure i could have gotton the o-ring valve to work..just took a lil more precision than the non o-ring one. ..it was just peace of mind.....i look at it as, the old one didnt have an o-ring...so the new one shouldnt either..