Convert From Mechanical To Hydrolic Clutch
#1
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Location: Goldsboro, NC
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Car: 1983 Firebird
Engine: 2.8L-5.0 swap
Transmission: T-5 5 speed
Convert From Mechanical To Hydrolic Clutch
I am looking for a doner car for a v8 swap but cant seem to find any with a mechanical clutch. Is it hard to convert from mechanical to hydrolic because that would give me a whole lot more options but I don't want to get over my head. I've searched and only found ones going from auto to standard in later model cars. My car is an 83 v6 with the ol z-bar. I don't know if it would have holes in the right place mount it. Also do the pedals swap from a later model to an 83. I don't know anything about how a hydrolic clutch works because I never had one. Any help is much appreciated. Thanks.
#2
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Location: Loveland, OH, US
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Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
It is very very easy to convert from mechanical to hydraulic. I know, because I converted my 83 back in about 86 or 87.
The holes for the master cyl are not there, exactly; but the hole the Z-bar goes through, with the rubber boot in it, is in almost the same place. You just have to enlarge it somewhat and drill the 2 holes for the U-bolt that holds the MC to the firewall.
The whole pedal assembly just swaps right out. BE SURE to get the 2 little rod-looking braces that go from the ends of the pedal pivot bolt, down to the U-bolt for the MC; without those braces, the only thing taking all of the force on the MC, will the sheet metal, which will bend out of the way and cause the clutch not to release.
If you get a whole T-5 setup out of a V8 car (which you'll have to do anyway), the holes and the pedals is ALL you have to do to swap it over. It's real easy.
The holes for the master cyl are not there, exactly; but the hole the Z-bar goes through, with the rubber boot in it, is in almost the same place. You just have to enlarge it somewhat and drill the 2 holes for the U-bolt that holds the MC to the firewall.
The whole pedal assembly just swaps right out. BE SURE to get the 2 little rod-looking braces that go from the ends of the pedal pivot bolt, down to the U-bolt for the MC; without those braces, the only thing taking all of the force on the MC, will the sheet metal, which will bend out of the way and cause the clutch not to release.
If you get a whole T-5 setup out of a V8 car (which you'll have to do anyway), the holes and the pedals is ALL you have to do to swap it over. It's real easy.
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