Good years for 9" rear
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Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,665
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From: Benzie, MI
Car: 91 rs
Engine: Blow through 383, 10 psi, xr288hr
Transmission: Manual th350 ATI 3000
Axle/Gears: 3.50 9"
Good years for 9" rear
Does anyone know what vehicles had the easiest 9" rears to swap into a 92 rs? Also would a 9 hold well under 550hp?
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From: GO PACK GO
Car: 83Z28 HO
Engine: Magnacharged Dart Little M 408
Transmission: G Force 5 speed
Axle/Gears: Moser 9" w/Detroit Trutrac
No such thing as a 9" that will swap in from any other car. It's a Ford rear, so all the Ford brackets would have to be cut off, and Camaro brackets welded on. Preferrably on a jig so everythings in perfect alignment. May need to narrow it too and get custom axles.
Not sure what you'd do for the torque arm...
Better off just buying a bolt in kit from Strange, Currie or Moser. They say mine will hold in excess of 600 HP and TQ. Good enough for me.
Not sure what you'd do for the torque arm...
Better off just buying a bolt in kit from Strange, Currie or Moser. They say mine will hold in excess of 600 HP and TQ. Good enough for me.
Last edited by Confuzed1; Apr 27, 2005 at 10:41 AM.
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Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 17,271
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From: 51°N 114°W, 3500'
Car: 87 IROC L98
Engine: 588 Alcohol BBC
Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"/31 spline spool/4.86
Moving all the brackets over to a junkyard 9" isn't hard. The hard part is finding a way to economically attach the torque arm.
Third gen diffs are actually narrow compared to most junkyard 9" diffs. I use a housing from a 1970 F100. I use ladder bars so I didn't have to worry about mounting a torque arm.
Strength of the 9" depends. The weaker ones onle have 28 spline axles but even a factory axle is stronger than anything available for the 10 bolt. Ford also produced 31 spline axles 9" diffs. With little to no modifications, a factory 31 spline 9" could easily handle 600+ hp although I'd get aftermarket axles at that point.
Like any other diff, there's always room for improvement even on a 9". Your best bet is to bite the bullet and buy an aftermarket bolt in diff. You can cut costs buy buying a housing package. It inclused the housing that's a direct bolt in plus axles. You then buy a center section with whatever posi and gears you want. These can be picked up locally for a lot less than buying them in a complete package deal. The housing package is around $1000 while a complete diff is closer to $2400 now depending on what internal parts you want.
Third gen diffs are actually narrow compared to most junkyard 9" diffs. I use a housing from a 1970 F100. I use ladder bars so I didn't have to worry about mounting a torque arm.
Strength of the 9" depends. The weaker ones onle have 28 spline axles but even a factory axle is stronger than anything available for the 10 bolt. Ford also produced 31 spline axles 9" diffs. With little to no modifications, a factory 31 spline 9" could easily handle 600+ hp although I'd get aftermarket axles at that point.
Like any other diff, there's always room for improvement even on a 9". Your best bet is to bite the bullet and buy an aftermarket bolt in diff. You can cut costs buy buying a housing package. It inclused the housing that's a direct bolt in plus axles. You then buy a center section with whatever posi and gears you want. These can be picked up locally for a lot less than buying them in a complete package deal. The housing package is around $1000 while a complete diff is closer to $2400 now depending on what internal parts you want.
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,665
Likes: 3
From: Benzie, MI
Car: 91 rs
Engine: Blow through 383, 10 psi, xr288hr
Transmission: Manual th350 ATI 3000
Axle/Gears: 3.50 9"
how much will the 28 spline hold? I can get an old used rear real cheap, also know a few good machinists thatll narrow it for me too. Welding the brackets isnt going to bother me. thanks for the help guys.
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