my transmission shifts normally until the engine comes up to temperature then the convertor locks as soon as it shifts into second gear then it stays locked or seems to stay locked at full throttle. when i step on the brake and gas at the same time the convertor unlocks. i also believ the axel ratio is differrent than stock becuase the speedo seems to be 10 to 15 mph off . is it possiblthat my tps is shot or out of adjustment or a bad vss?

 

Dude - sorry you're having problems.

First thing you need to do is get a Haynes (or similar) manual for your car. They have diagnostic procedures that can help you diagnose the VSS, TPS, etc.

You will need to get a DIGITAL voltmeter - don't get a cheapie analog - it won't work for what you need to do. You can get a decent one at Home Depot in the electrical dept. for about 30 clams. Mine's a Sperry DM-350A, and it works fine. Ya gotta have one if you want to any diagnostics on these cars...

As far as the Torque conv. problem, I don't think it sounds like a TV (throttle valve) cable (from the throttle body/carb to the tranny) adjustment problem because you indicate that it shifts OK when it's cold.

At the bottom of this post I'll give you the correct adjustment procedure (Instructions that I gave to someone else in a different thread), but again, I don't think that's your problem. Doesn't cost anything to check, and it only takes 5 minutes - and that's only if you screw around for three minutes!

I'm thinking the TCC (torque converter control) solenoid may be bad, or may just have an iffy connection where the wiring harness connects to it. Make sure the plug that connects to it is clean and properly attached. Make sure that the wiring harness to the tranny is not piched/cut/mangled. If so, repair any damaged wires. My manuals do not however, contain any info on further diagnostics of the TCC solenoid.

Trans. fluid/filter been changed within a reasonable period of time? (30-40K miles for normal driving. I change mine every 12-15K miles, cause I drive like - well, never mind...)

Run the tests, check the adjustments, etc. Don't just give up and throw parts (read: $$$) at the car until you fix it...

If you don't have any luck, ask some of your buddies to recommend a REPUTABLE transmission shop - let them test drive it with you and tell you what they think. DO get a second opinion. I've seen some hacks that'll charge you big $$$, tell you they're gonna do a complete rebuild, and then only replace what has already failed and nothing else. Be careful there.

Tire size, axle ratios, speedometer drive gear # (the number of teeth on the gear), and the final drive ratio of the transmission - these all can affect the accuracy of your speedo.

Larger (taller) tires cause the speedo to read too slow, and vice-versa. After installing (larger) new tires on mine, my speedo was about 3 - 5 mph too slow. Pulled the speedo gear & went to the Chevy dealer and bought a speedo gear with one less tooth - drives the speedo cable faster - and now it's pretty close...

On the underside of your center console cover may be a sticker with all of the codes for the components your car was originally assembled with. This may help you determine what parts (tranny, rearend, etc.) the car was originally assembled with, to help you figure out what was changed to cause your speedo prob. The tranny shop may also be able to help you w/proper drive gearing for the speedo, if you don't have any luck.

Hope some of this helps... Good luck

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To follow are the symptoms of a misadjusted throttle valve (TV) cable, along with the correct adjustment procedure for 700-R4 & 200-C trannys, that I originally gave to someone else in this forum.

The purpose of the TV cable (to the trans) is to tell the tranny how far the accelerator has been depressed, to assist it in knowing when to upshift (or downshift).

If the TV cable is not pulled far enough (out of the cable housing) during acceleration, shifts will occur too late. (The tranny "thinks" the accelerator pedal is not depressed as much as it actually is.)

If the TV cable it is pulled out too far during acceleration, shifts will occur too early. (The tranny "thinks" the accelerator pedal is depressed more than it actually is.)

The TV cable to the tranny is supposed to run through a bracket at the carb (or throttle body, if so equipped): the end of the cable is connected to the throttle valve lever on the carb or throttle body. There is a spring-loaded tab (for 700-R4's and 200-C's - the tab on mine is goldish) that you push in while pulling the cable housing back. This puts the maximum amount of tension/travel on the cable. Then simply get in the car and slowly press the gas pedal (engine off) all the way to the floor. This will allow the cable/housing to "self-adjust" to the correct position. The idea is to have the cable pulled just to the end of its travel at WOT.

Don't stomp the gas pedal - just press slowly. Stomping the pedal may result in the housing being pulled back (towards the carb/throttle body) too much, resulting in late shifts again...

The tip of the pencil in the attached photo indicates the spring-loaded tab you press in so you'll be able to pull the housing back before pressing the gas pedal down for "self-adjustment".

This entire procedure doesn't cost anything and it only takes 5 minutes - and that's only if you screw around for three!

 

My picture didn't get attached to the last post. Let's try again...

 

thanks man. i have a chilton but it is pretty much worthless. so i will have to get a better manual. i have a couple haynes complete care manuals for other vehicles and they are much better and i only have an anolog volt meter so that puchase is also in order. again i thank you for ayour in put.