I drove my car to the place that did the transmission so he could check it out cause the shifting and lockup was really getting on my nerves. Anyways, I had my trans rebuilt with all the good stuff and also added a transgo shift kit. I also have a 2800 stall. Once I had it back in the guy told me to bring it by and he would tweek the govoners if they were not right for me.
He drove it and told me to bring it back Thursday after ordering some parts and to go home and unplug my lockup plugin. That it was ok for the tranny and wouldnt mess it up for just a day or two.

He said that lock up was playing havoc with the shifting. So he is going to install a 4th gear lock out, put in the corvette govoners, and do something with some kind of piston...I dont remember what he called it.

Anyways what will that do? He told me that the 4th gear lockout with keep the lock-up from coming on till I am in 4th gear only....also he would do something so that lock-up would not occur right after going into 4th gear.

I forgot what he said the corvette govoners would do or the piston thingy..


Can anyone inlighten me on what he plans on doing to my tranny?

Its ok as its under warranty and he going to work on it to my liking..

 

umm? anyone?

 

when i rebuilt my tranny the trans-go kit came with the corvette servo. As far as the torque converter clutch the only thing i know that can go wrong is the switch going bad or the actual converter itself

 

sounds like he's removing the servo piston and messing with the governors to make the shifts firmer, more precise, and at the right RPMs.

 

the only thing that the govenor does is shift points useing centrifical force and weights. They have nothing to do with the firmness of the shift other than it might put the engine in the correct power band

 

Shifting manually at WOT the govoners dont do anything, correct?

 

notice i mentioned the servo piston...... if the mechanic removes that, it's gonna shift pretty hard.

 

If he removes a servo piston, it's not going to shift at all. If he blocks the accumulator piston it would shift hard.

You could shift manually to make the transmission shift later than the governor would normally let it shift, but you can't make it shift earlier without changing the governor calibration.

 

I think I mentioned this somewhere else....not sure. Anyhow, I have a switch that I wired up to control my lock-up. It's wired into the brake pedal switch so the lock-up won't ever lock-up. If I need to do any high speed cruising, I just flip the switch and the computer regains it original lock-up control.

I have a 2400 stall and 3.27 gears. Just for example, at around 50 mph, I can cruise at about 2400 RPMs in 3rd gear. This is PERFECT for aggressive driving since I'm right in the power band. It's a little high for casual cruising. I can hit the switch and the lock-up kicks in after a few seconds. It'll drop the RPMs to about 2000, but now it won't unlock unless I floor it. 2000 it a little low for accellerating with a locked convertor so what I normally do is just leave the switch off (no-lockup) and pop it into 4th. From 2400 I now drop to about 1800-2000, but I'm still not locked up, so if I need to get on it a little, it'll slip up to about 2400 in fourth gear and I can accelerate. I don't need to go W.O.T. since I'm in the powerband and if the Lock-up was on, I'd need WOT to unlock the TC. So where was I? OK, 2400 in 3rd gear, no lock-up. Pop it into 4th, I'm now at 1800-2000, still no lock-up. Now If need be, I can still hit the switch and allow the computer to handle the lock-up and it'll drop to about 1300. There's no need to do that at 50 mph, but on the highway, you can see how it works.

Bottom line, I have 3 normal driving modes:

Drive - switch off (no lock-up)
Overdrive - switch off (no lock-up)
Overdrive - switch on (computer controlled Lock-up)

 

hey AB!
got a picture of the switch? and a picture of the wires that you spliced into on the brake? So I dont cut the wrong ones...


I just cut the wire and put the switch wires in between and mount the switch, correct?

What you did is exactly what I want to do.

Im trying to get this all done by the show in Mooresville.

I still have alot to do!

 

It only took me about an hour to do.

Yes, you just splice the switch inline, and then mount the switch. You also have to run a ground wire from the switch, but that's pretty easy. I'll check later and see what wire it was. A quick guess is that it was purple with a pink line, but I'll double check. I know when I was looking for the wire color, I found it somewhere on the tranny board so you can probably dig it up if ya look. I'll see if i can find it. Taking off that hush panel to check the wire is a pain in the azz!

 

Found it!
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...ghlight=lockup

I mounted the switch right under the SES light. You can't see it unless you look.

 

 

Excellent!.....I read the article that you posted and did the pink/black wire and wired it to a 3 prong lighted switch and mounted it right next to the ADL cover...and it works!!!! TC lock-up when I want it....only in 4th of course.

One question, when I plug the ground wire in the back of the swtich I blow a fuse therefor disabeling the switch...what would cause the ground wire to keep blowing a fuse? I just have it disconnected til I can figure it out...but I like to have it lite so I know its on or off...ya know?

any ideas?