Getting ready for a complete rear end swap, couple basic questions first
Thread Starter
Supreme Member

Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,043
Likes: 3
From: San Diego
Car: 1994 Trans Am
Engine: LT1
Transmission: Auto
Axle/Gears: 3.23
Getting ready for a complete rear end swap, couple basic questions first
I have a complete 3.42 posi/disc sitting in my garage and the crappy 2.73/posi drum on the car.
I have the diff and posi fluid and some spray for the bolts. I also have the speedo & drive gears coming to me tomorrow.
How long is this gonna take?
How many bolts, roughly, are there?
When should I spray the bolts? I was gonna spray it today (Sunday) then again the night before the swap (maybe Friday night) and the morning I do (Saturday)? Is this a good idea or will it all dry out and rust again by the weekend, so just spray them friday night?
Should I keep my al. drums?
I would like to because of the weight savings (not much but hey) and because people complain about the rear discs being hard to change.
Thanks guys
I have the diff and posi fluid and some spray for the bolts. I also have the speedo & drive gears coming to me tomorrow.
How long is this gonna take?
How many bolts, roughly, are there?
When should I spray the bolts? I was gonna spray it today (Sunday) then again the night before the swap (maybe Friday night) and the morning I do (Saturday)? Is this a good idea or will it all dry out and rust again by the weekend, so just spray them friday night?
Should I keep my al. drums?
I would like to because of the weight savings (not much but hey) and because people complain about the rear discs being hard to change.
Thanks guys
Thread Starter
Supreme Member

Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,043
Likes: 3
From: San Diego
Car: 1994 Trans Am
Engine: LT1
Transmission: Auto
Axle/Gears: 3.23
Oh yeah, forgot to ask......
Driveshaft.....is there a special tool to remove it from the rear?
-and, do I need to totally remove the DS or just have it removed from the rear only?
Will I need a special size socket for any bolts? I will be doing this with hand tools.
Driveshaft.....is there a special tool to remove it from the rear?
-and, do I need to totally remove the DS or just have it removed from the rear only?
Will I need a special size socket for any bolts? I will be doing this with hand tools.
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 9,962
Likes: 5
From: Moorestown, NJ
Car: 88 Camaro SC
Engine: SFI'd 350
Transmission: TKO 500
Axle/Gears: 9-bolt w/ 3.23's
Id definatly spray it for as long as possible to free up the bolts. Since the llarger bolts crimp the mounting surfaces in to keep the rubber bushings stationary theyre really tight and a pain to get off, especially when rusted. Id say itll take at least a couple of hours to complete. Another thing is that the torque arm has to be the last thing to come off and the first thing to go on, otherwise the rear will spin around when you try to losen/tighten bolts. As long as nothing is rusted solid it wont be too bad.
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Joined: May 2005
Posts: 482
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From: Lancashire County, England, UK
Car: VIN=85 T/A, CAR=82/3 T/A gfx, go figure. She's a T/A anyway!
Engine: 5.0, Holley 600 cfm 4-barrel
Transmission: THM350 ??
AFAIK, the driveshaft rear universal joint is bolted to the diff yoke by 2 clamps. Just unbolt those clamps, push the driveshaft forwards slightly into the transmission, and there ya go
REMEMBER TO MARK WHICH SIDE OF THE JOINT A CLAMP GOES ON, OTHERWISE YOU MAY END UP WITH DRIVESHAFT VIBRATION UPON RE-ASSEMBLY!
Mark.
Mark.
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Member
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 396
Likes: 0
From: Queens NY
Car: 86 Camaro Z28
Engine: 350 sbc goodwrench
Transmission: T-5 in the works
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.42 open
I am doing the rear swap also for the first time.
So far I got the rear out the hardest part was
the 20 year old bolts and I had to cut the shocks
out they where bad anyway.
My panhard was bent and twisted so I had to buy another one.
I think this may have contributed to my rear end wearing
out before its time. I had a terrible wobble in the right wheel
and a horrible shaking drivetrain which eventually led me
to this point.
I have drums also and I had to swap my brake shoes and
hardware onto the other rear I also have aluminum drums
which are considerably lighter then the steel ones.
Also you have to take off the brake lines depending
on what came with you new rear.
ITs easier if the new rear has the brake lines including
the rubber line then all you have to do is hook that
one line up.
IF your going to run disk now so you have to
get a proportion valve to get more pressure for the calipers.
I was afraid of doing that so I stayed with a drum setup.
I probably would have a hard time with that and Im
in the street and its getting cold so I tried to make the job
easier.
I didnt get the drive gear yet and I should I have.
2.73 open going to 3.42 open.
Another problem I had was the fill plug for the differential
wouldnt come off and was already rounded out so I had
to fill the it up while it was still out of the car which is much
easier anyway but I would of liked to check the level just in case.
Its good if you have some help to get the rear out but
I did it by myself its heavy if you want to lighten the load
you can drain it and take the cover off and remove the axles
and drums, or you can leave the tires on and if you have
the car high enough you can roll it out with the torque
arm still attached.
best of luck
Dave
So far I got the rear out the hardest part was
the 20 year old bolts and I had to cut the shocks
out they where bad anyway.
My panhard was bent and twisted so I had to buy another one.
I think this may have contributed to my rear end wearing
out before its time. I had a terrible wobble in the right wheel
and a horrible shaking drivetrain which eventually led me
to this point.
I have drums also and I had to swap my brake shoes and
hardware onto the other rear I also have aluminum drums
which are considerably lighter then the steel ones.
Also you have to take off the brake lines depending
on what came with you new rear.
ITs easier if the new rear has the brake lines including
the rubber line then all you have to do is hook that
one line up.
IF your going to run disk now so you have to
get a proportion valve to get more pressure for the calipers.
I was afraid of doing that so I stayed with a drum setup.
I probably would have a hard time with that and Im
in the street and its getting cold so I tried to make the job
easier.
I didnt get the drive gear yet and I should I have.
2.73 open going to 3.42 open.
Another problem I had was the fill plug for the differential
wouldnt come off and was already rounded out so I had
to fill the it up while it was still out of the car which is much
easier anyway but I would of liked to check the level just in case.
Its good if you have some help to get the rear out but
I did it by myself its heavy if you want to lighten the load
you can drain it and take the cover off and remove the axles
and drums, or you can leave the tires on and if you have
the car high enough you can roll it out with the torque
arm still attached.
best of luck
Dave
I just laid on the ground holding the nut with a big wrench and let the impact wrench do the work on the bolt heads. It would have been a lot more painful without that.
I did have one bolt the impact wouldn't take off. The one on one of the shocks. I used a very long, solid breaker bar and finally got it off. And I may be crazy but half of those nuts and bolts seemed to be metric and half standard.
I did have one bolt the impact wouldn't take off. The one on one of the shocks. I used a very long, solid breaker bar and finally got it off. And I may be crazy but half of those nuts and bolts seemed to be metric and half standard.
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Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 7,964
Likes: 4
From: Norfolk, VA. USA
Car: 86 Trans Am, 88 Formula
Engine: 95LT4, 305TPI
Transmission: T56, T5
Total number of fasteners to remove are.....18 I believe, not counting the the wheel studs.
Should take you no more than 4 hours if you haven't done it before.
We swap rear ends at my place like they are going out of style.
Should take you no more than 4 hours if you haven't done it before.
We swap rear ends at my place like they are going out of style.
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 1,153
Likes: 22
From: Annapolis Maryland
Car: To many to list
your going to need 7/16 wrench/socket,18mm wrench/socket,21mm wrench/socket,13mm socket.Probably something else I forgot.Definatly spray all the nuts/bolts a few times at least.Be careful when you pull the driveshaft from the rear not to drop the u-joint caps off the ends.
Member
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 396
Likes: 0
From: Queens NY
Car: 86 Camaro Z28
Engine: 350 sbc goodwrench
Transmission: T-5 in the works
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.42 open
I got the rear in finally.
Unfortunately I had to take it out again the paper gasket
was wet at bottom.
Unfortunately I had to take it out again the paper gasket
was wet at bottom.
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iTrader: (4)
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,048
Likes: 1
From: Long Island, New York
Car: 1988 Firebird Formula
Engine: 388 Carb
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 4.10
Re: Getting ready for a complete rear end swap, couple basic questions first
I am literally stuck in the middle of a rear end swap. I have everything off except the trailing arm bolt is stuck on the drivers side, It spins (very hard to spin) and the nut is off the end but it is stuck in the rubber bushing. Any suggestions? Anyone else have this problem?
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 12,812
Likes: 110
From: Central NJ
Car: 86 Trans Am
Engine: 408 stroker sbc
Transmission: TKO600
Axle/Gears: Moser full floater m9, 3:70 trutrac
Re: Getting ready for a complete rear end swap, couple basic questions first
should just have to beat the heck out of it and it should come out, if you are planning to reuse the bolt, try not to mess up the threads.
maybe try prying against the threaded side while turning the head and see if it starts to thread itself out.
maybe try prying against the threaded side while turning the head and see if it starts to thread itself out.
Supreme Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 7,964
Likes: 4
From: Norfolk, VA. USA
Car: 86 Trans Am, 88 Formula
Engine: 95LT4, 305TPI
Transmission: T56, T5
Re: Getting ready for a complete rear end swap, couple basic questions first
We had that issue on my friends car. The bolt was fused to the metal insert inside the bushing. this was on the body side so it was hard to get a good angle to hit it with a sledge. We couldn't get it out that day, but I think that he may have had someone cut the bolt off.
Supreme Member
iTrader: (4)
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,048
Likes: 1
From: Long Island, New York
Car: 1988 Firebird Formula
Engine: 388 Carb
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 4.10
Re: Getting ready for a complete rear end swap, couple basic questions first
The idea that came to me last night was kind of like getting a balljoint off... putting a Cclamp with a large socket around the bolt and the cclap at the other end... pushing it out... hopefully this works, if not i dont know what else to do, cutting might not even work.
Supreme Member
iTrader: (4)
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,048
Likes: 1
From: Long Island, New York
Car: 1988 Firebird Formula
Engine: 388 Carb
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 4.10
Re: Getting ready for a complete rear end swap, couple basic questions first
Well, I tried the C-clamp idea... all it did was bend a 9" clamp. now i have a broken tool, and a bolt fused in there. Any other ideas? I dont have a torch at my house and that is the only other thing i could think of.
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