Thinking having a larger transmission oil pan [with drain plug] would be a good idea, i bought one, also got a new filter and gasket.
I originally thought if the pans deeper, will the filter still pick up ok?
I quote from the advert : "HOLDS APPROXIMATELY 2 MORE QUARTS MORE THAN THE STOCK PAN " which is good. then :" AND NO MODIFICATION IS NEEDED TO USE IT ON YOUR TRANSMISSION"
But does it not need a filter tube extension, if not why not?

Thanks for any help.

 

It's funny, some pans come with a filter extension, others don't. Strictly speaking, no you don't need one. You are increasing fluid volume, so you need another 2 quarts to fill the pan to the level on the dipstick. The additional volume will disperse the heat load from the trans over more fluid, trying to keep the temperature lower. I wouldn't say don't run a cooler with a deep pan, rather a deep pan will make the cooler more efficient.

 

Great , thats what i wanted to hear.
Its funny , when i was looking around for replacement sumps for engine and gearbox, its very hard not to buy chrome. Black is almost non-existent, which gives me the excuse for plenty of chrome.

 

Keep a coat of wax on the chrome, otherwise it will flake and rust in short order unless you buy OEM quality parts, which are also expensive.

I ran into this same situation several years ago when I built a motor for my truck. Within three years the chrome looked terrible (not that I was ever big on polishing it mind you, I just needed the tin and chrome seemed to be all that was available). For my current project I went to great lengths to avoid chrome. My trans pan, valvecovers, and timing cover are all cast aluminum. My oil pan is a Miloden gold iridite coated steel pan.

I've found that cast parts seal better too, especially perimeter bolt valve covers, which always seem to leak (rubber gaskets with steel cores and frequent re-tightening is my best solution yet, and it works well, but centerbolt valvecovers just seal better because the oil level is below the seal lip on the head).

 

Good advice, i used to have a chopped Triumph many years ago, it had chrome, brass and copper plating, no paint anywhere, boy did it corrode if you just looked away.
Eventually i might go alloy, but this is my first 3rd gen, and therefore a bit of an experiment into parts prices, reliability, and the fun aspect, so far i'm a happy bunny.

 

Look at the bottom of your stock tranny pan and you will notice a lot of marks on it from going over objects on the road. Then think about your larger tanny pan hitting those same objects. Worse yet if its a cast one because they don't dent but crack when hit. Good luck finding a good tanny shop.

 

You would have to hit something incredibly hard with a cast trans pan to crack it. However, you can use the trans pan to jack up the trans by the pan, where a stamped pan will dent, possibly impeding oil flow to the pickup.

I run a cast pan on my truck, that sees tons of 4x4 action. I don't worry about the pan, because the transfer case and rears hang a lot lower in the chassis than the trans pan. One of them is going to take the shot first. A good spotter, and lots of experience should prevent it from ever becoming an issue though.

Even on a low slung car like a 3rd gen I still would use a cast pan. It will improve sealing since it won't flex and will hold the fasteners torque better. BTW, the pan on my Z, back when it was an auto, looked fine when I removed it. It was a little rusty, but had no dents or signs of foreign object collision.