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Ford Style 9" rearend

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Old Apr 1, 2006 | 11:49 AM
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Phil87IROC's Avatar
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From: Tucson, Arizona
Car: 1987 IROC Z28
Engine: 6.0L LQ9 crate engine
Transmission: Performa Built 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42 10 bolt, Eaton/Moser
Ford Style 9" rearend

Who has "bolted" in a Ford style 9 inch rear end into a 3rd gen Camaro? I like the strength and 3.50 gear option.

I am looking at the Spohn 9" and Currie 9" as options. I'd like to know how big a job it is......is "bolt-in" a reality?

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Old Apr 1, 2006 | 03:23 PM
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Ford style


It either is a Ford 9", or it's not a Ford 9". There's no such thing as "style" in a rear end that I know of. Well, not a car one, anyway.

Yes bolt-in is a reality; for ones made specifically to go in these cars by Moser and Strange and so forth. Otherwise, it takes lots and lots of fabrication, which doesn't always give the best results; or changing out the rear suspension to a 4-link or ladder bars. And of course, a stock Ford 9" is a total piece of crap, barely better than the stock 7½" 10-bolt in many cases; you don't want one of those. What you want, is an aftermarket unit whose parts are dimensionally identical to, and interchange with, a Ford 9"; not a "genuine" Ford one.
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Old Apr 1, 2006 | 09:05 PM
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its scot's Avatar
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Car: 85 iroc-z
Engine: blown 350
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 4.10
if you call currie / stange ore any of the reputable companys (not moser) they will tel you that to clear the torq arm in a 3rd/4th gen. the 9 inch has to be offcet in the car 1 inch this can and dose couse a vibration that CAN NOT BE FIXED it also shorens u-joint life LOOK at a 12 bolt ore dana rear.
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Old Apr 2, 2006 | 12:19 AM
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From: 51°N 114°W, 3500'
Car: 87 IROC L98
Engine: 588 Alcohol BBC
Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"/31 spline spool/4.86
There are aftermarket "bolt in" 9", 12 bolt and a new Dana 60 rear ends available. They are direct replacements for the tiny 10 bolt diffs under third gens. Bolt in as per they have all the proper brackets and mounts on the housing in the proper locations.

As for style, the 9" isn't unique. There are a number of similar diffs in a 9" style. The Dodge 8-3/4" is similar to a 9" where it has a removeable front housing. Every heavy truck diff from Rockwell, Eaton, Spicer etc are all a 9" style.

As for a bolt in replacement diff, by the time you get everything including brakes, you're looking at around $2500 to get rid of that tiny 7.5" diff.

My 9" isn't a bolt in. The housing is from a 1970 F100. The pinion for this housing is offset about 2" to the passenger side which means the axles are the same length from side to side and I don't notice any vibrations but I'm also using 1350 u-joints. Factory cast center section of unknown year or casting. Strange lightweight steel spool and Strange 31 spline axles. 4.56 gears of unknown manufacturer. I have my diff mounted with ladder bars so it's not considered a bolt in. I have an aluminum spool to go in but I'm after an aluminum center section also. The cheapest one is from Strange at around $300 but I'd like a Currie or Mark Williams version however they start at around $500. If I manage to break something in this diff, I'll upgrade to something stronger.

Last edited by AlkyIROC; Apr 2, 2006 at 12:23 AM.
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Old Apr 2, 2006 | 03:01 AM
  #5  
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From: Evansville, Wisconsin
Car: 91' Pontiac Firebird
Engine: LT1
Transmission: 4L60E
A stock factory big bearing 31 spline "N" case with the "Daytona" pinion support 9" is nearly indestructable. The only real weakness is the axles, and you'll probably have stronger custom ones made anyway. If you bust your 31 splines, 36 splines are a bolt in conversion with new side gears. With tons of power, the factory posi may crack too, but again, you'll probably have an aftermarket one already anyway. The only thing stronger than a 9" is a Dana 60, and that's a big damn axle. It's way overkill for most cars, and gear selection is quite limited. There's nothing quite so fine as a good old Ford 9
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Old Apr 2, 2006 | 07:09 AM
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From: Northern CA.
Car: '82 Z28
Engine: 350
Transmission: TH400 4,000 stall
Axle/Gears: Currie 9", 4.56 gears
I've been running a Currie 9" for almost 2 years now, no problems. Moser will never get my biz after all the things I've read about them and have seen first hand.
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Old Apr 2, 2006 | 10:50 AM
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From: GO PACK GO
Car: 83Z28 HO
Engine: Magnacharged Dart Little M 408
Transmission: G Force 5 speed
Axle/Gears: Moser 9" w/Detroit Trutrac
I have a Moser 9" with a Daytona pinion support, 31 spline "alloy" axles,
Nodular case and Detroit True-Trac posi. Not one problem with it....maybe I just got "lucky"??

if you call currie / stange ore any of the reputable companys (not moser) they will tel you that to clear the torq arm in a 3rd/4th gen. the 9 inch has to be offcet in the car 1 inch this can and dose couse a vibration that CAN NOT BE FIXED it also shorens u-joint life LOOK at a 12 bolt ore dana rear.
The offset is 15/16th's, and causes no vibration problems. I'm NOT the only one running a 9" around here, and I'm pretty sure that if it were a fact that the rear will vibrate, NO ONE would run a 9" on thier thirdgen.

Last edited by Confuzed1; Apr 2, 2006 at 10:57 AM.
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Old Apr 2, 2006 | 04:16 PM
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its scot's Avatar
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Car: 85 iroc-z
Engine: blown 350
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 4.10
hay glad you guys are having good luck with your 9 in. I wonted to put one in my car as they are very strong. Just thout I would relay info that was given to me. constructing all the braketing ect. to put my 12 bolt in has bean a lot of work.
BY the way did you no that a 12 bolt from a 68-71 chevelle is the corect length to put in a 3rd gen.?
Mine is almost compleet.
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Old Apr 2, 2006 | 08:13 PM
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From: Smithfield, VA
Car: 85 Tojan
Engine: ZZ4
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 9", 3.50
I've had a currie 9" since 1998 and it's been great. I had to replacce an end bearing and seal but no other problems. It is a perfect bolt in as far as I know. The mounts were all wneded where they belonged and it included a special bracket to use the factory torque arm.
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Old Apr 2, 2006 | 08:27 PM
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I have a 9" from Currie, and it was my best performance upgrade I ever did. I ordered the nodular iron case, with the large bearing, and heavy duty pinion support, and 3.50 gears. My axles are 31 spline. I even went the extra step, and had it powercoated black, which I recommend, as you will never have to repaint it every year. But like Stephen said, they cost $$$, but for the strength, its worth every penny. Breaking 10 bolts gets old quick.
Attached Thumbnails Ford Style 9" rearend-picture-025.jpg  
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Old Apr 2, 2006 | 08:47 PM
  #11  
Coach Hawk's Avatar
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From: Evansville, Wisconsin
Car: 91' Pontiac Firebird
Engine: LT1
Transmission: 4L60E
The other upside, and this is a big upside, is no C-clips. If you snap an axle on a C-clip rear end, you can loose the wheel(expecially if you have drum brakes). Since the 9" axles are held in with a retainer on the outer end of the axle, if you manage to snap one, the wheel stays put on the car.
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Old Apr 3, 2006 | 05:53 PM
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From: Tucson, AZ, USA
Car: '92 Z28; Dk Teal; Her Pkg
Engine: 305
Transmission: Richmond 6 Spd
Axle/Gears: Moser 9", Detroit Locker, 3.70
I have a Moser 9" with 35 spline axles, Daytona pinon support, Detroit Locker, 3.70 ratio, and 12" Wilwood 4 piston discs. It's been in the car for 3 years & has nearly 50 K miles on it. It's awesome, but did require some modification to "bolt in".
Attached Thumbnails Ford Style 9" rearend-tqarmrearbrktincar2.jpg  

Last edited by Tim Burgess; Apr 3, 2006 at 05:58 PM.
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Old Apr 3, 2006 | 06:06 PM
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Nice pic Tim. That car is real clean. How many times a month do you get the DustBuster out for your chassis?
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Old Apr 3, 2006 | 06:21 PM
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From: Tucson, Arizona
Car: 1987 IROC Z28
Engine: 6.0L LQ9 crate engine
Transmission: Performa Built 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42 10 bolt, Eaton/Moser
Currie Stage III

Currie offers a Stage III. They claim it will handle 550-600 hp (crank). $2,900 with rear disc brakes. $200 to ship.

Here is the description:

The Currie Stage III F-Body '82-2003 Camaro/Firebird rearend assembly for non-ABS cars is a custom built unit that includes the heavy duty 9" Ford housing with all of the stock Camaro suspension brackets mounted including the heavy duty torque arm mount (CE-7008), 31 spline Performance axle package, (CE-0012), Explorer disc brake kit with internal drum parking brake (CE-6012), 3rd member with 9-Plus nodular iron sportsman gear case, 9-Plus big bearing nodular pinion support, Tru-Trac differential, gear ratio of your choice, and yoke. Unit comes fully assembled and ready to bolt in.

Sound familiar to you Currie owners? My Auburn broke in my 10 bolt, will the Tru-Trac be any better...........?

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Old Apr 4, 2006 | 09:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Coach Hawk
The other upside, and this is a big upside, is no C-clips. If you snap an axle on a C-clip rear end, you can loose the wheel(expecially if you have drum brakes). Since the 9" axles are held in with a retainer on the outer end of the axle, if you manage to snap one, the wheel stays put on the car.
It would certainly slow the prosses, but eventually the bearing would "press off", a ford 9" isent a "full floating axle".

~JaSoN

p.s. im not tring do be a i just used to think the same thing.
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Old Apr 4, 2006 | 09:23 PM
  #16  
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From: Waterloo, Iowa
Car: 86 firebird with 98 firebird interi
Engine: pump gas 427sbc Dart Lil M 13.5:1
Transmission: Oldani TH400 w/ BTE 9" convertor
Axle/Gears: 31 spline Moser/full spool/4.11Rich
I've had this Moser 9" for 2 yrs and numerious street miles and even more passes, never noticed any "vibrations" out of it, but with everything being solid mount the car shakes enough as it is so I might not noticed anyways.

The housing itself had a stripped out vent hole that I had to re tap and did'nt come with a drain plug so I had to drill and tap that was well, other than that and the 90lb chunk of steel to hook the tq arm too it was a nice looking housing and had great welds.

I just bought a Strange center section and fitted it with Richmond pro gears and full steel spool with moser 31 spline axles. So far everything is still as tight as ever and no signs of twist on the axles. I had more problems with the shop I ordered everything from-most problems with center section-but everyting else seemed just fine and has given me no problems to date.

Race parts-cost twice as much and never fit-just a fact of life, once you go after market there are very few times everything "just bolts in" LOL!!
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Old Apr 4, 2006 | 11:04 PM
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From: Evansville, Wisconsin
Car: 91' Pontiac Firebird
Engine: LT1
Transmission: 4L60E
Originally Posted by SHIFFS
It would certainly slow the prosses, but eventually the bearing would "press off", a ford 9" isent a "full floating axle".

~JaSoN

p.s. im not tring do be a i just used to think the same thing.
Yeah, I know. But, the bolt on axle retainer will hold it for a good long while, and(unless your ) , you'll stop driving as soon as the thing snaps. It'll keep the wheel on well enough to keep you out of the wall
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Old Jun 19, 2020 | 12:52 PM
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Car: 1987 z28 T Tops
Re: Ford Style 9" rearend

Does anyone know if I can run 18in irocs without sticking out? I want a strong aftermarket rear end but don't want my irocs to stick out like on the 4th gen rear end. Thanks!
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Old Jun 19, 2020 | 04:28 PM
  #19  
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From: Cincinnati, OH
Car: '90 RS
Engine: 377 LSX
Transmission: Magnum T56
Re: Ford Style 9" rearend

Originally Posted by malc1080
Does anyone know if I can run 18in irocs without sticking out? I want a strong aftermarket rear end but don't want my irocs to stick out like on the 4th gen rear end. Thanks!
When you order a 9" you have it made to any axle length you want.
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Old Jun 19, 2020 | 08:18 PM
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Re: Ford Style 9" rearend

Originally Posted by ShiftyCapone
When you order a 9" you have it made to any axle length you want.

sweet! Thanks! It’s like I’ll have a strong axle but won’t have the grip of running wide since I love irocs and can only get 275 wide. Oh well
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