does anybody have any info or tips on rebuilding a T5

I'm sure I'm capable of doing this,
I'm a heavy truck mechanic so I'm no stranger to a wrench,

just want some specs maybe a blown up diagram anything so I'm not flying blind here


Thanks Steve

 

About 12 years ago, I converted my automatic 87 Camaro to a stick and rebuilt the tranny that I had bought from this lying jerk who told me that it was in perfect working condition. As it turned out, I had to rebuild the damn thing because it was all screwed up and through trial and error, I had gotten so good at it that I could take it apart and put it back together in like 5 minutes. I did it all in my bedroom. Ahh, the good old days.

But I digress.

The case was cracked right behind the input collar so I had to change it, I also had to change its main shaft, all of its bearings as well as the synchronizers. Additionally, I broke a gear (I believe it was reverse) when I was putting it back together, so I had to change that too.

SO, the first thing I would recommend is that you call George at A&A Gears in Los Angeles - 213-748-2194. This guy is the guru of the T-5s. He's the one who showed me how to rebuild mine. Also the nicest most helpful guy you'll ever meet. His shop is dedicated to transmissions parts and rebuilds. So if he doesn't have the components that you need, then no body does. He’s real reasonable too. Tell him Ebby sent you, I actually spoke with him a couple of weeks ago about rebuilding mine again - so he'll remember me.

Anyway, there are 2 different types of transmissions that came with the camaro/firebirds. The one used in the V-6 is a Borg Warner T-5 that has higher ratio lower gears, but weaker bearings, a 16 spline input shaft and a non-reinforced case. The V-8s also came with the Borg Warner, but its called the T-5 "world class." The only real difference is that the world class has better bearings, a 26 spline input shaft and a reinforced section in the rear of the case where the secondary gear shaft mounts to the case.

First things first, you must drain the oil and make sure that the case is not cracked. Just eyeball it, looking for hairline fractures or leaks. The best way to be sure is to have the case magna-fluxed. If the case is cracked, you must change it. If you’re changing the case, be sure to get the right one - either world class or regular - don’t mix and match. And don’t try to have the case welded. Trying to fix the case is like pissing up a tree. Second, wait and remove the input shaft and collar till later. If I recall correctly, there may be some needle bearings in that area and when you remove the collar, they all fall out. I think there are also a some shims that keep the input shaft from moving around too.

Nonetheless, you should first undo the top bolts, and removed the cover and forks. Then the tail housing came apart with some allen screws revealing the main cluster and the reinforced area that I mentioned earlier. I believe there was a pin or two that had to be removed so that you can free up the tail housing. The pins are somewhere in the shifter housing or on the shifter rod that attaches to the forks on the inside of the transmission. Anyway, you can’t miss it. When you take the rear housing off, inspect and replace, if necessary, the rear seal (it's basically a black washer with a spring around it). You then have to unbolt the reinforced area that holds the secondary gear cluster in place (the bottom shaft) and there were a couple of c-clips in there somewhere that kept it all together.

Once that section is loosened, you should remove the front input shaft collar. Take out the needle bearings (if any), the shims and then the input shaft and gear itself. It comes out in one piece and I believe it has a bearing that's pressed-on. After you do that, you can pull the main cluster out (top portion of gears that are mounted to the main shaft). You would first pull the main cluster and shaft back and then up and out of the top. The race for the bearing that holds the rear of the main shaft in place will pop out of place when you pull the shaft back. This should give you the leverage you need to pull the shaft up and out. If the race doesn't pop out, then you need to gently work it out - be careful, because you don't want to damage the case, particularly if you have a world class T-5, those cases are very hard to find. Once the main gear cluster is out, removing the secondary cluster is easy. You basically take the reinforcing assembly off and then pull the cluster out the same way.

Check the tip of the main shaft in the front. It should have a smooth, shiney appearance. If it looks like the plating or metal is worn off, or wearing off, you will either have to replace the entire shaft or have it re-plated. Change all of the bearings and their races. You should likewise change all of the synchronizers for bronze ones. Also, look at the gear teeth; if any look chipped or appear messed up in any way, I would change them out. However, you're gears will probably be fine.

The gears and sncroes must be removed using a press. You must also use a press to replace them, but it's not hard since they all have their own tolerences - they basically stop where they have to on the shaft once they're pressed to the right spot. At least that's what I remember. Keep everything together the way it came out. The last thing you need it to forget the order of things - that’s a bitch, I know.

Importantly, DO NOT ATTEMPT TO INTERCHANGE GEARS FROM A T-5 OUT OF A MUSTANG. The gears are not interchangeable. I made that mistake and after I buttoned the whole thing up, I noticed that the input shaft would spin only a few revolutions by hand before locking up. Apparently the main shafts between the Mustang T-5s are a hair smaller or they have one or two less splines, so when you install the Mustang gear on the 3rd gen shaft, the gear will sit slightly off center.

When you’re ready to reassemble, place a nice bead of silicone all the way around on all surfaces. I don’t know what the torque settings are, I just tightened the hell out of it. Also, A&A recommends that you use, I believe, 3 quarts of 30 weight motor oil and not automatic transmission fluid in the T-5. It’s supposed to be better. I once went nuts and started putting synthetic oil into the thing and screwed it all up. Evidently, synthetic oil is not good for the gears - something to do with the need for a certain degree of friction. Ask George, he’ll explain it.

It’s all pretty simple once you get into it. Although I do remember having some major trouble getting the rear race for the main shaft into place. I got so frustrated that I almost threw the entire thing out of my bedroom window. My father had to physically stop me. Just know that patience is a virtue.

Hope it helps. Good Luck!

 

If you go to Gforcetransmissions.com, they have a pdf file on the right, in the T5 section on rebuilding a T5. If not, I can email you mine.

BTW Ebby, V6 T5 are V6 T5, and V8 got WC and Non-WC models, just to let you know.