Transmissions and Drivetrain Need help with your trans? Problems with your axle?

stall converter

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Old May 19, 2006 | 06:36 PM
  #1  
Johns1989irocz's Avatar
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From: Easton, Pennsylvania
Car: 1989 Iroc
Engine: 5.7L 350 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
stall converter

What exactly is a stall converter? I asked my dad and he has been around high performance cars for the last 35 years and he dosent even know what exactly they are and what they do. I know this may be a dumb ? but i am just curious

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Old May 19, 2006 | 07:56 PM
  #2  
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From: 51°N 114°W, 3500'
Car: 87 IROC L98
Engine: 588 Alcohol BBC
Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"/31 spline spool/4.86
All converters stall. A factory converter stalls around 1200 rpm.

Torque Converters
Selecting a torque converter
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Old May 19, 2006 | 09:29 PM
  #3  
Johns1989irocz's Avatar
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From: Easton, Pennsylvania
Car: 1989 Iroc
Engine: 5.7L 350 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Originally Posted by Stephen 87 IROC
All converters stall. A factory converter stalls around 1200 rpm.

Torque Converters
Selecting a torque converter
Thank you very much, that explains alot. its great when someone can help without making fun of somebody less in the "know"

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Old May 24, 2006 | 10:39 PM
  #4  
anesthes's Avatar
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From: SALEM, NH
Car: '88 Formula
Engine: LC9
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.89 9"
Originally Posted by Stephen 87 IROC
All converters stall. A factory converter stalls around 1200 rpm.

Torque Converters
Selecting a torque converter
Curiously, since in 10 or so years of racing, I just bought my first automatic car. What is this "lockup" vs "non lockup" I see on summits website regarding converters?

i'm thinking with my 230/245 @.050 cam I should go around 2500rpm stall, but I'm confused about the "lockup" vs "non lockup". does non lockup simply mean not computer controlled lockup?

-- Joe
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Old May 24, 2006 | 10:43 PM
  #5  
GuitarJunki17's Avatar
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From: Hamilton
Car: 1990 IROCZ Camaro
Engine: 350 4bbl, 200cc Heads, 270hr Cam
Transmission: 700R4 w/ Trans-Go shift kit.
Axle/Gears: GM 10 bolt Posi
Stephen, I'm diggin the new scoop addition on the IROC
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Old May 24, 2006 | 10:58 PM
  #6  
AlkyIROC's Avatar
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From: 51°N 114°W, 3500'
Car: 87 IROC L98
Engine: 588 Alcohol BBC
Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"/31 spline spool/4.86
Looks cool eh?

A lockup converter will lock the converter internals to keep them from slipping. A locked converter will get better fuel mileage. You can convert a 700R4 tranny to have a lockup without a computer.
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Old May 25, 2006 | 09:16 AM
  #7  
anesthes's Avatar
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From: SALEM, NH
Car: '88 Formula
Engine: LC9
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.89 9"
Originally Posted by Stephen 87 IROC
Looks cool eh?

A lockup converter will lock the converter internals to keep them from slipping. A locked converter will get better fuel mileage. You can convert a 700R4 tranny to have a lockup without a computer.
Well, since I'm using the ECM, and can control some aspects of TCC lock, do I want a 'lockup' converter, or a 'non-lockup' ? I'm new to automatics, this is a new project for me and I'm learning.

Thanks!

-- Joe
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Old May 25, 2006 | 10:14 AM
  #8  
84z28350's Avatar
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Joined: Aug 2005
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From: Yellowknife, NWT, Canada
Car: 84 Z28
Engine: 357
Transmission: TH-350C
Axle/Gears: 3.43
Originally Posted by anesthes
Well, since I'm using the ECM, and can control some aspects of TCC lock, do I want a 'lockup' converter, or a 'non-lockup' ? I'm new to automatics, this is a new project for me and I'm learning.

Thanks!

-- Joe

If your driving street you want a lockup.

That way you can run a high stall to have lots of fun and still end up with decent fuel economy while cruising, while also reducing trans fluid temp and extending trans life.

If your on the track only you wont be needing a lockup!
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Old May 25, 2006 | 11:47 AM
  #9  
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From: Southwest Florida
Car: projects.......
If your on the track only you wont be needing a lockup!
not necessarily true. Many guys go faster by locking the converter while going down the track(if you can pull it), but that takes a much more expensive 3 or 5 disc converter to not burn up the converter.

all this said, if you're just gonna race it, why screw with a 700r? The lower 1st gear is negated by the jump from 1st to 2nd. Drop the rear-gear to where you need it and drop a T350 or T400 in.
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Old May 25, 2006 | 12:04 PM
  #10  
anesthes's Avatar
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From: SALEM, NH
Car: '88 Formula
Engine: LC9
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.89 9"
Originally Posted by Shagwell
not necessarily true. Many guys go faster by locking the converter while going down the track(if you can pull it), but that takes a much more expensive 3 or 5 disc converter to not burn up the converter.

all this said, if you're just gonna race it, why screw with a 700r? The lower 1st gear is negated by the jump from 1st to 2nd. Drop the rear-gear to where you need it and drop a T350 or T400 in.
Things are a little different in vette world than fbody.

I'm gonna run the 700R4 for the summer, than consider a 6-speed + dana44 swap in the fall, while I do the c5 conversion and interior conversion.

So basicly, I want a lockup converter.. Rock on. Thanks guys. I'm automatic stupid. I've always just ignored the auto stuff.

-- Joe
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