Usually when I try to powershift, it won't go into the next gear. Feels like i've got the clutch pressed in too far...?

I'm going to recheck my adjustment, but i've got a few questions, regarding the ambiguity of the instructions in the haynes/helm manual i've got.

1)disco return spring
2)hold pedal against rubber bumper on the dash brace ***does this mean hold the pedal AWAY from the firewall, or TOWARDS the firewall?
3)push clutch fork so that TO bearing lightly contacts pressure plate fingers
4)loosen locknut and adjust length of rod so that swivel of rod can slip freely into gage hole in lever. Increase length until all freeplay is removed. (gage hole is CLOSER in then working hole). I'm guessing this means normally, you have ~.5" of rod movement (??? of pedal travel), before you touch the TO bearing against the pressure plate?
5)put swivel rod back into normal hole in lever. install retainer and locknut
6) check freeplay at pedal.

They spec .875" +/- 30" of freeplay. I'm guessing they mean .3". So does this mean the clutch return spring will hold my clutch pedal out, so that i'm pushing *lightly* on the pedal ~.875" before the TO touches the pressure plate at all?
.
.
.
'Cuz I think last time I just adjusted it, I left it in the normal hole, adjusted until all freeplay was taken up, then ADDED 1/2" of preload. If you're still reading this, does this mean I have adjusted an extra 1.5"+ too far, or....? (and have answered my own question?)

Thanks muchly!

 

Short version:

Lengthen the adjuster until all play is removed; then shorten the rod until you have ½" - ¾" of free play in the pedal between the return travel stop and where it sits by itself.

As the clutch wears and the disc gets thinner, the free play goes away. Once the free play becomes zero, then as it continues to wear, the clutch pedal in essence remains pushed a little bit 100% of the time; leading to rapid failure of the throwout bearing, and disc wear from slipping.

You DO NOT, UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES, want ANY preload.
Preload = needs adjustment

 

hmm, ok then.

yea, I couldn't find a return travel stop, that was why I was confused initially. I'll check for that more closely.

will do that tonight hopefully, then test 'er out. Thanks!

 

I don't think these cars have an actual "stop"; it's kind of more like where the pedal bracket starts being in the way of the pedal going up any further. In other words, as high up as you can lift it by hand.

 

I adjusted it so there was 1/2" of air between the rod, and the clutch fork..,.. That didn't work, there was 3/4 of pedal travel of air, and couldn't disengage the clutch. So I backed that rod out, until with the spring in, I had ~1" of EASY clutch pedal movement (with my hand). Then snugged up the locknut.


MUCH BETTER! Thanks again sofa, I owe you a cold one. Much more natural shifting and clutch pedal movement.

hey one more then, what would cause a squeak from my clutch pedal? I had removed that block mounted pivot arm, and cleaned it in my parts washer before, so tonight, I hit it with my grease gun for a good long time. I don't think that's where the squeak comes from. Sounds like inside the car, a pedal pivot area? Is there a bushing in the car that I can replace?

 

You're right! That won't work!!! You want to adjust the rod to take up ALL the play, then back it off to where there's ¾" of free play at the PEDAL, not at the FORK. Big difference there: given that 6" of pedal travel = about 5/8" of fork travel.

A squeeek inside the car could be the stud where the push rod attaches to the pedal, or the pedal pivot itself.

Thanks for the "virtual cold one".