Well, I've been replacing my torque arm bushing. What a PITA!!! I've had to lower the transmission 3 times so far because I'm an idiot, and I have to go do it again. First time to remove the old mount, second time to put the mount back in. Well, I put it back in the wrong hole. Third time I put it in the right hole, but forgot to put the other long bolt back in! And guess what on that third attempt I stripped the in-body threads on one of the transmission crossmember bolts! So my questions are what should I do about the stripped threads on the crossmember bolt holes, can I go with only 3 for now? Tap the hole? What size tap should I use? Also what procedure should I use to put the torque arm back together? It doesnt look like it will be easy.

 

Well I got the torque arm mount all fixed up and done. WOW. What an incredible difference, most of my knocks and bangs were from that.

Still only have 3 trans x-member bolts though, not sure what to do

 

NO! DO NOT GO WITH THREE!!!!
This is a thing that happens on our cars. What I did was got a holesaw and cut a hole in the side of the unibody frame sheetmetal. Dont remember how large, but, just large enough to fit your finger in there, so you can put a nut on the bolt, and hold it with a wrench. It should tighten right up for you.

 

Here is a pic I dug up.

 

What is it that the bolt screws into? Is it a nut thats welded to the subframe in there? 1 or 2 of mine have striped as well. Did you drill a new hole in the xmember and the subframe, plus the holesaw cut?

Looks like Ill be drilling mine out soon.

 

it's an M8 bolt I think, that normally goes into that tapped hole. Mine was already tapped for 3/8" bolts when I got it, and all 3 broke when I removed mine. (yea, it only had 3 when I got the car.) I tried drilling it 3/8", which was too easy to be true, then tapping 7/16". That was too loose. I cut little square holes in the frame like brutal form mentioned, but I didn't really need to. What I did was use 1" long 3/8"NC socket capscrews. Using one of those telescoping magnets, I dropped it in from the top, through the existing holes. It's a little tricky, but it worked. 1" long is a tiny bit too short for comfort, but longer is hard to line up. 1 1/4" I think would probably work. Use BIG THICK washers, then some kind of locking nuts. I just have normal 3/8" washers and normal nuts, it isn't loosening but it's also not terribly comforting.
I didn't even have to hold the bolt head still while tightening, since I just used normal nuts, it only took effort to tighten once it was already pulling the bolt downwards so it held itself in place.
Anyway, that's one way to do it. Remember, the tapped part in the frame, as you can see in brutal's picture, is a little blob. I think it's aluminum, it's incredibly soft. Threads pull out WAYYYY too easily.

 

Yes Sonix, they are almost like the sheet metal clips that slide over the holes that are usually drilled in sheetmetal, that the sheet metal screws go through, (like a fender or somthing). Your way is also a good idea, but, I seem to be always doing something to the car, so it just seems easier to drill the sides. After you tighten the nuts to the bolts, it is way stronger now. I dont trust those flimsy threaded inserts anymore. I would recommend to do all for of them...I did. I also upgraded to grade 8 bolts as well.
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No. Just a hole saw cut along side the frame rail, by the area where the bolt threads up. Pretty easy fix.

 

Sounds good, when I get back under my car in a day or so to fix a tranny line, ill look at getting that done. After looking under the car, while a buddy was power braking it to check for clearnce, I couldnt believe the crossmember was flexing a 1/2" in both directions! That thing is flimsy, just thinking of when my TH350 slams into 2nd and 3rd scares me.