I'm doing a T56 Swap in my 91 383 SuperRam Formula.

In the process of installing the hydraulics, using brand new hydraulics I got from TPI Parts. While trying to snake the hydraulics around the brake booster, the little hose that goes to the reservoir popped off (no tie wrap from GM on this one) and I drained a bunch of fluid onto the driveway.

So, how do I go about bleeding a brand new set up and what should I use for fluid to refill t? I've done some searching, but it sounds like working the rod on the lower (tranny) end can cause problems. Is that true? The clutch pedal rod end is so stiff I can't push it in.

As an aside - the master cylinder is the top unit that goes thru the firewall, and the slave it the part going into the bellhousing - right?

 

No help or suggestions at all? huh......

 

What lost fluid?

If the reservoir was the only thing that lost any, then just fill itup and don't worry about it.

For that matter, if the master cyl lost some, it also will bleed itself while just sitting there, because the reservoir line attachment is at its highest point.

IMO there is entirely too much ink on this site devoted to "bleeding" clutch hydraulics. I don't think you have anything to worry about.

 

Well, I think I got it all bled out by slowly pumping the slave cylinder a few times and watching the reservoir and making sure it didn't run out of DOT 3. Thanks for the help. I didn't want to take a chance seeing how as the snaking of this thing into place is such a biatch. Once I do that again I'm almost ready to fire this little lady up!

 

An update - got the T56 in and hooked up, all hydraulics connected, and actually drove it down the alley last night. Didn't go any farther cause I need to dig out my DD box instructions - I was pegging the 140 speedo at about 1800 RPM in first gear LOL.

However - the clutch engagement point is right at the top of the pedal travel. Before I do any heavy duty searching, any one else notice this before?

 

Thats normal on the t56 install, don't worry about just drive it

 

OK, thanks - and I will as soon as I set the DD box tonight!!!

 

My car might get fired up tonight, cept i am stuck at getting the splines to line up and get the tranny in. All i need is that and the wiring and ill be ready to go also cant wait!

But like i said i gave up last night trying to line this **** up, its just being an absolute bitch and my neck hurts... Any tricks you used?

 

That part is a bear, always gives me trouble. Biggest help I had was a friend named Erik who's built like the Incredible Hulk. He lifted and pushed while I used a U-joint yoke in the tranny to slightly turn the pilot bearing until it went in. Make sure you're using a new pilot bearing, that it's not driven in beyond flush, and grease the H3LL out of the shaft and bearing and also grease the dowel pins on the bell housing, works much better that way. Also - remember that the back of the tranny almost hits the floor when it's in place. Without a tranny on the motor it tilts forward some. I actually used a 2x4 and a small floor jack to slightly tilt the motor back to get it all lined up. Hope this helps!

 

well the pilot bearing isant new, but its newer. The clutch alignment tool goes in/out so i guess i just got to keep wrestling it. Thanks for the help i maybe trying some of that later tonight.

 

I use 2 floor jacks. One under the front of the transmission with the handle pointing straight to the front, and one under the rear with the handle pointed straight rearwards. Piece of cake. Makes it as easy as bench-pressing a T-5 in.

 

and how do you move it without it falling over? Its been me and 1 other person guiding and balancing it while i jack it up with my leg/foot...ya its a pain in the *** and i dont want to drop this thing

 

Very slowly and carefully?

Sorry, but that's not just a wise-@ss response. It's truly how I had to do it, I couldn't figure out anything else either....

 

I found that two people and a low-profile transmission jack with the tilt platform did the trick for me.