What if's - 700r4 TV cable mal-adjusted
What if's - 700r4 TV cable mal-adjusted
I spent about two hours reading posts and some links and I'm still not clear on what I would expect to see if the TV cable is loose or tight.
(FYI 91 RS 305 TBI, owned for 3 months now, I'm old school non-computer, so this stuff is all new to me)
(also FYI - the "D" button is inward facing next to the coil and hard to access/press)
I have a non 2-3 WOT shift unless I crack the throttle. So I checked the TV cable. Initial inspection had the cable almost all the way back to the button/bracket (ie already pulled back towards the firewall). Apparently this button mechanism is not working like eveyone explained, because I could not make it pull the cable (making it click) with either my foot on the pedal or my hand on the linkage. With the TV cable all the way back and the it button hanging up, it caused the throttle NOT to open all the way, therefore, I assume I was not getting a WOT signal and the tranny would not shift.
With some help, I was able to make the TV cable "click" by holding pressure on it with the linkage, my wife with the foot on the pedal, and my free hand working the cable thru the button mechanism, until I reached WOT.
I test drove & seemed to lower the 1-2 shift point at WOT and I still had to crack the throttle for a 2-3 shift, but less than before, I'll have to play with it some more, but first....
to the questions:
What should I expect if
1.) the TV cable had been pulled all the way back towards the firewall and car operated that way? I understand that it was probably causing some pressure issues at low and mid throttle, but other than the 2-3 thing, it seemed to be working fine.
2.) the TV cable is to loose/slack when everything is at an idle position? I could see where there might be an issue at low to mid speeds with engine loading and maybe not enough pressure for the load, but it would be overcome rather quickly.
If my assumptions are correct, wouldn't it be better to have the cable a click or two on the tight side at the idle position? Guess it would depend on if it limits the TPS to not reach a WOT signal voltage (whatever that is).
I also read that I might need check out the governor stuff if the TV cable is adjusted well.
Thanks for reading and any posts.
Mark
(FYI 91 RS 305 TBI, owned for 3 months now, I'm old school non-computer, so this stuff is all new to me)
(also FYI - the "D" button is inward facing next to the coil and hard to access/press)
I have a non 2-3 WOT shift unless I crack the throttle. So I checked the TV cable. Initial inspection had the cable almost all the way back to the button/bracket (ie already pulled back towards the firewall). Apparently this button mechanism is not working like eveyone explained, because I could not make it pull the cable (making it click) with either my foot on the pedal or my hand on the linkage. With the TV cable all the way back and the it button hanging up, it caused the throttle NOT to open all the way, therefore, I assume I was not getting a WOT signal and the tranny would not shift.
With some help, I was able to make the TV cable "click" by holding pressure on it with the linkage, my wife with the foot on the pedal, and my free hand working the cable thru the button mechanism, until I reached WOT.
I test drove & seemed to lower the 1-2 shift point at WOT and I still had to crack the throttle for a 2-3 shift, but less than before, I'll have to play with it some more, but first....
to the questions:
What should I expect if
1.) the TV cable had been pulled all the way back towards the firewall and car operated that way? I understand that it was probably causing some pressure issues at low and mid throttle, but other than the 2-3 thing, it seemed to be working fine.
2.) the TV cable is to loose/slack when everything is at an idle position? I could see where there might be an issue at low to mid speeds with engine loading and maybe not enough pressure for the load, but it would be overcome rather quickly.
If my assumptions are correct, wouldn't it be better to have the cable a click or two on the tight side at the idle position? Guess it would depend on if it limits the TPS to not reach a WOT signal voltage (whatever that is).
I also read that I might need check out the governor stuff if the TV cable is adjusted well.
Thanks for reading and any posts.
Mark
Supreme Member
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,192
Likes: 20
From: Cary, North Carolina
Car: 1992 RS
Engine: Carbed 350
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42 posi
I'm not sure what you'd expect if the cable were "a few clicks loose or a few clicks tight" - I never really thought about it. The cable is intended to be self-adjusting, and intended to be where it becomes after self-adjustment, and not anywhere else - as I understand it, at any other position you run a great risk of causing damage to your tranny.
Just adjust it as it should be - by pushing in on the D-shape button, and allowing the cable to go as far towards the firewall as possible. Then by hand, twist your linkage as far as it will twist towards the car front - the adjuster will "click" a few times where it needs to be as the cable is pulled out - just make sure that your linkage is twisted as far forward as it will go.
It's not easy, and not intended to be. That D-shaped button is a PITA to push in, and the linkage is a PITA to twist fully out as there is alot of pressure on the TV cable. But you should really get the best shifts when it's properly adjusted this way.
If you feel that there is problem with the cable, it could be kinked, or frayed inside, or just stretched/worn - simply replace it. They aren't that much (like $30 at dealer), and aren't that hard to replace, you just need to jack up the pass side of car to get to the tranny end. Good Luck!
Just adjust it as it should be - by pushing in on the D-shape button, and allowing the cable to go as far towards the firewall as possible. Then by hand, twist your linkage as far as it will twist towards the car front - the adjuster will "click" a few times where it needs to be as the cable is pulled out - just make sure that your linkage is twisted as far forward as it will go.
It's not easy, and not intended to be. That D-shaped button is a PITA to push in, and the linkage is a PITA to twist fully out as there is alot of pressure on the TV cable. But you should really get the best shifts when it's properly adjusted this way.
If you feel that there is problem with the cable, it could be kinked, or frayed inside, or just stretched/worn - simply replace it. They aren't that much (like $30 at dealer), and aren't that hard to replace, you just need to jack up the pass side of car to get to the tranny end. Good Luck!
Supreme Member
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 1,422
Likes: 1
From: alliance, ohio
Car: 1984 chevy camaro
Engine: 355
Transmission: turbo 350 2800 stall
Axle/Gears: 3:73 detroit locker posi
I'm not sure what you'd expect if the cable were "a few clicks loose or a few clicks tight" - I never really thought about it. The cable is intended to be self-adjusting, and intended to be where it becomes after self-adjustment, and not anywhere else - as I understand it, at any other position you run a great risk of causing damage to your tranny.
Just adjust it as it should be - by pushing in on the D-shape button, and allowing the cable to go as far towards the firewall as possible. Then by hand, twist your linkage as far as it will twist towards the car front - the adjuster will "click" a few times where it needs to be as the cable is pulled out - just make sure that your linkage is twisted as far forward as it will go.
It's not easy, and not intended to be. That D-shaped button is a PITA to push in, and the linkage is a PITA to twist fully out as there is alot of pressure on the TV cable. But you should really get the best shifts when it's properly adjusted this way.
If you feel that there is problem with the cable, it could be kinked, or frayed inside, or just stretched/worn - simply replace it. They aren't that much (like $30 at dealer), and aren't that hard to replace, you just need to jack up the pass side of car to get to the tranny end. Good Luck!
Just adjust it as it should be - by pushing in on the D-shape button, and allowing the cable to go as far towards the firewall as possible. Then by hand, twist your linkage as far as it will twist towards the car front - the adjuster will "click" a few times where it needs to be as the cable is pulled out - just make sure that your linkage is twisted as far forward as it will go.
It's not easy, and not intended to be. That D-shaped button is a PITA to push in, and the linkage is a PITA to twist fully out as there is alot of pressure on the TV cable. But you should really get the best shifts when it's properly adjusted this way.
If you feel that there is problem with the cable, it could be kinked, or frayed inside, or just stretched/worn - simply replace it. They aren't that much (like $30 at dealer), and aren't that hard to replace, you just need to jack up the pass side of car to get to the tranny end. Good Luck!
.. good luck Thread
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