I have a 15th annivesar 1984 TA, it has a 10 bolt with 3.73 gears limited slip and all that, I needed to put in a new axle so I bought two new Moser 26 spline, 30 5/16"s steel alloy axles, Moser axle bearings and seals, 12mm x 1.5 Moser studs, some new gorilla lug nuts and all that, plus I got new Ratech axle seals too. I already have all of the brake pars off so it is just my axles on the outside, I took off the diff cover and took out the 8mm bolt that holds that center shaft in and I can slid that shaft in and out no problem. Now I know I need to take the c-clips out but I am not sure exactly how to do that. I see how the little gears in side can turn when I spin the axle without the shaft in, but I haven't gone all the way around because I dont want any thing to fall out. The car is on four jackstands so I can put it in nuetral and spin the driveshaft to turn the whole gear around. I have the big helms book, the haynes, and printouts from a shop and the dealership showing the breakdown of the rearend and what to do for the axles, and pretty much it says just to take out the shaft and the c-clips

Just what do I need to do for the c-clips? how does that work? so I can get the axles out
Also what axle seals do you think would be better the Moser ones or Ratech, or not that important?
And Im not sure all the way where and how the axle bearings and seals work?
I believe the seals are toward the out side right or is there more I need to take apart?
I need new fluid also Do you recomend Redline synthentic shock proof gear oil, the light version with some LSD friction modifer? or what oil?
And with the suds would you recomend the longer 2.5" lenght ones compared to the stock length 1.5" ones, the new lugnuts are shorter becuase they dont have the extra out side threads on for the plastic caps, so I think the 1.5 should be plenty fine.
Any other suggestions too??

Thanks for the help in advance, and any questions about my car I'll answer, and you can check out my cardomain to see some old pictures of my rear end gears and everything Ive done, Ill post new or specific pics if needed or wanted cause all the cardomain stuff is older\
Thanks again
-Vince

 

One quick question too, With putting the new studs in should I find a someone with a press or try to do it my self? The instruction talk about just tightening up a lug nut and washer to press them in and ive seen people talk abotu using hamers, Also the new moser axles have holes for press in studs and screw in types, so I could get screw in ones, recomend that? Thanks again, again
-Vince

 

1. C-clips - they fit inside a little counterbore in the side gears. ALl you do is push the axle in, and the clip falls out. Think of it as, there's nothing holding that rear together, it just can't quite fall apart.

2. The little bolt in the center isn't 8mm, it's 5/16". You're damn lucky you didn't round it off. THe correct tool is a 6-point 5/16" box wrench.

3. I'd almost bet money that the seals that Moser and Ratech provided, are identical, down to the part #; and if they're not, they're the identical product from one of 2 companies. They'll be either National or CR. They are pretty much equal, not worth worrying about which ones to use; use whichever ones are already out of the kit and easiest to get to.

4. You put the seals back in the same way they are now.

5. You remove them with a 6' piece of about ¾" water pipe, and a mighty whack with a BFH. You put them back in with about 6" off the end of a 2x6, and again, with ONE MIGHTY WHAP of the BFH. DO NOT, under ANY circumstances, try to "tap" the seals in around the edge, or use a round object like a socket or something; you will destroy them, every time, and they will leak. It's not a bad idea to put a little gorilla snot down at the very bottom of the seal bore, so that when the seal is all the way in, the inner edge of the seal contacts it. DO NOT smear the sealant around the outside of it.

6. Yes you can press the lugs in with a lug nut turned upside down and a hardened ½" washer. You could also use a press, if you have access to one. Don't use a hammer.

7. I would not recommend screw-in studs for the street. Weird things could happen at the corner tire store someday.

 

Thanks soo much for all of that, Im going to have to go back out to the garage and check things out, Yeah with a that bolt 8mm was a little loose and 7 didn't fit but for some reason I didn't check standard, I'll install it the right way though lol,

Hopefully now the c-clips will come out easy, and then I can just push them back on and pull the new axles out a bit so its all seated up right then?

Thanks for all of that about the seals too, should be clearer with the axles out,
and yeah I didn't really like the idea of screw in studs either

And also with the seals the Moser ones are blue and Ratech are red, lol so Ill use the Moser ones cause they're in the kit and they're blue goes with my car lol

Any recomendation with the gear oil though, I might wait to buy good gear oil until I get a stronger diff. cover/girdle though, cause I'll have to drain it all again anyways

Thanks again
-Vince

 

Yeah you just push the axles in as far they'll go, slide the clip on (it just slides on & off, doesn't even "clip"), and slide the axle back out against it. Done.

Any kind of good synthetic; Red Line, Amsoil, Mobil 1, etc. I'd prefer those to the me-too brands like Castrol or Valvoline.

Pre-lube the bearings before installing them!!! Use some kind of NON-FIBER grease, such as white lithium or Mobil 1.

 

I got the axles out no problem now, this was my first time messing around with the gears at all, I got brakes, engine, suspension all down no problem and im not scared of messing with the gears any more, The seals and bearings were no problem, and I I packed them good with the bearing packer too, cause Ive changedt he fornt ones when I did all the brakes,

My problem now is comparing the new axles to the stock ones is the inner hub on the outside, it is a little smaller in diameter not too much but it is a good amount shorter than the stock, Very noticable when I measured it with the micrometer and when the rotor is on it doesn't stick out as much. So with the rotor on it doesnt seat as well in the wheel as the stock ones. I don't want all the pressure just resting mainly on the studs, I need to call the Moser to see if they can make it bigger, I Know there is a difference between the disk and drum brake axles, do you think Summit sent me the wrong ones? I know the only difference is in the hub but I'm not sure about the "Inner Outer Hub Part", if thats it or no. I mean the axles I have will work but I would feel alot better if it was bigger or at least the stock size.

Any feedback on that??
-Vince

 

That unfortunately would be a Moser question... not much I can post here that will make it thicker...

I prefer Superior axles for a stock replacement situation like this, for exactly this kind of reason (among others). Not that Moser doesn't make a high-quality product; but rather, their business is building "custom" axles, which is a WHOLE DIFFERENT deal from exact-duplicating stock ones.

But they're going to have to be the ones to help you out. Or, if you know how much difference there is, you could just make yourself some spacers out of shim stock; which you can buy for real cheap from McMaster-Carr among other places.