I think I've told pretty much everyone on here what my deal is. I've got a ford 9 inch I just installed. Had the driveshaft custom made because the only thing the people could reuse was the tranny slip yoke. I measured my pinion yoke (even measured it twice) and swear I came up with 1 3/16" diameter cap and 3 5/8" measuring tab to tab. Got my shaft made and am talking to the guy in the shop about how everyone on here was saying it seemed very rare because those measurements would signal that I have a 1350 series u-joint. He says "yeah, thats odd". Get my new driveshaft and head out to install it in the car. Guess what, doesn't fit. I figure, it must be a 1330 series. Honestly, it still looks like 1 3/16" cap diameter, but oh no, no fit. I measure and come up w/ an 1 1/8 (again in between that and 1 3/16, but it don't fit). I plug that in and get the decimal of cap diameter to be 1.125. This would mean that I have the odd ford pinion yoke 1330sp or 1330f series u joint right?

My questions:
1. Is there a conversion u-joint that I can swap between the 1350 driveshaft and the 1330sp(f) series yoke? I know it isn't the best combo, but this thing has broken me financially. I just need this car running.

2. If not, are all of the pinion yokes the same length? Meaning if I do find a 1350 series pinion yoke and bolt it on, can I do it without cutting the driveshaft? Again, I'm finally busted and can't afford anything special.

Thanks for everyone's help, everyone really has been helpful!

Mike

 

Yes you can get a 1330/1350 conversion u-joint. I had one in my car for years. I've just recently upgraded to a 1350 yoke on the diff so now both my u-joints are full 1350 series.

Most 1350 yokes are considered a short yoke. The factory 9" yokes can be long or short. A short yoke is about 4" total length or about 3-1/2" from the back of the dust ring. The long yoke is about 5" or about 4-1/2" from the back of the dust ring. Because I went from a long to a short yoke, I'm having my driveshaft lengthened. I've done a lot of changes over the years. My driveshaft was originally for a TH400. I've also move my engine back since then. Doing a measurement, I found my driveshaft needed to be 1-1/4" longer. They just cut the weld yokes off the tube and weld in a longer tube then balance the driveshaft.

It's not likely you're going to find a 9" yoke for 1350 u-joint in the junk yard. It wasn't a factory option. 1350 steel yokes are available on Ebay for around $50. Chances are the conversion u-joint won't be cheap either.

In in doubt when you go looking for a conversion u-joint, take the yoke to the auto parts store so you can match up a u-joint to fit it.

 

Ok, Well, I think I may be in luck then. I haven't measured the length of the yoke in a while, but I seem to remember mine being approximatly 3 1/2" from the dust cap to the face of the yoke meaning I have the short style. The guy I bought the rear axle from said if I had the longer style then I would be able to use my stock driveshaft from the 700r4 to the thirdmember with just a conversion joint. That wasn't the case which makes me think I must have the shorter style yoke. I saw a new forged steel unit on ebay for 45.00. Maybe I'll just make a bid.

My dad helped with the rebuild of the thirdmember. In all honesty, he pretty much built it while I sat there watching and drinking a beer. Removal and reinstall of the yoke while its in the car and everything is resting on cinder blocks? Is it just pulling off the nut and figuring out how to slide off the pinion yoke without damaging the pinion splines and then sliding on the new one?

Am I correct in thinking that there are actually 3 lengths? A long, short, and a shorter one for the Daytona Pinion Support?

 

I have no idea about the Daytona support yoke.

I use an impact to remove my pinion nut. My old yoke slid on and off freely. Must be old and worn. My new yoke needs to be tapped with a hammer. I also use a Raytech solid pinion spacer which helps reset the preload.

 

Does the 1350 pinion yoke have a different dimension? The guy I'm buying the 1350 pinion yoke from said his measure about 3.8" or 4.25". Odd lengths. I got my 1330 yoke off tonight and it seems to sit right at 4" (maybe a little less).

 

A quarter inch either way isn't going to make a big difference unless your driveshaft length is already out.

 

Well, turns out the yoke's height is almost dead on where I'm at on the one I just removed. The guy originally said it was about 4.25" but he sent an email back saying it actually measured 4.063". Seems like a big difference between the two, but I guess if you were just estimating it's what would likely happen. 4" makes it almost perfect.

Question: Removing my old pinion yoke would throw off my backlash correct? I've now got the third member bolted in. Is there a way to get the new pinion yoke on without having to reset backlash? Before removal I kind of felt the slack in the pinion yoke from end to end but a feel is only a feel if you know what I mean. I saw some stuff saying to tighten everything until the pinion yoke is at 10-15 in/lbs (used bearings). Will that get the backlash back to where I had it?

 

I torque my pinion nut to the same torque so I don't overtighten the bearings but I also use a solid crush sleeve. Changing the yoke won't change the backlash but if you overtighten the crush sleeve, you could change the preload on the pinion bearings.

Just unbolt the pinion and remove it (catch the oil). retorque the new yoke in a vise and recheck the rotational torque. If it's good, put it back into the diff with the same shims that were behind it before. Gotta love how a 9" goes together when you do stuff like this.

 

Ok everyone I finally got this thing on the road. Took it for a quick drive tonight and two questions, both noise related.

I seem to be getting a good amount of whine on the coast side. Unfortunatly its been so long since I drove the car with the old rear axle that I really couldn't tell you if its more or less than my old 3.73 setup. But it does seem to be a pretty good amount of whine. I maybe put less than 10 or 15 miles on the car tonight. Is this something likely to go away after breaking in the gear set or could it be a setup issue like backlash or that my pinion nut simply isn't tight enough and its causing the pinion to drive into the ring gear (I had to swap pinion yokes and unfortunatly didn't mark where it was set so I just sort of set it by feel).

My other issue is also a noise issue. This carrier was originally an open carrier so I just got one of the cheap lock-rite units for it. We checked the side gears that you re-use in the install and they were right at the limit of the allowable runout on the gear. This thing seems to clatter quite a bit in turns. I didn't notice it driving down the road or when I sat in my friend dirt driveway and powerbraked the car. But unlike my old lockright which was designed differently this one has a clatter where the other would have a noticeable click as the unit locked and unlocked.

Just wondering what everyone thought about this before I burn up a gear set.

Thanks everyone!
Mike