Borg & Beck vs Long vs Diaphragm Pressure plate
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From: Kissimmee, FL
Car: 1991 Camaro RS
Engine: 357cid
Transmission: T5 Swap
Axle/Gears: 10bolt 7.5" 3.23 soon to be 3.73
Borg & Beck vs Long vs Diaphragm Pressure plate
So what is the difference really (aside from general design) to these.
the flywheel i want to get says its drill for B&B and long style but doesnt mention diaphragm.
i know diaphragm is stock style. can i run the B&B or long style with out mods?
the flywheel i want to get says its drill for B&B and long style but doesnt mention diaphragm.
i know diaphragm is stock style. can i run the B&B or long style with out mods?
The main difference is the fact that the long or borg&beck style clutches completely suck to run in a street car. I ran a Hays B&B clutch in my 69 Camaro years ago, and it mangled release forks, broke bearing retainers, throwout bearings, you name it. With the advances in clutch technology nowadays, all you need for a hot street/strip car is a high performance diaphragm clutch (i.e. Ram Powergrip, Centerforce Dual Friction, Spec Stage 2 or 3). Just about every flywheel on the market has the proper holes in it for a diaphragm pressure plate. I don't know if a three-finger type pressure plate would work properly with the stock hydrualic linkage for sure. With a high perfomance diaphragm, you get the best of both worlds, high clamping load and light pedal pressure, just like stock. After a long night of cruising light to light with my Hays B&B, my left leg would get charlie horses from pushing such a stiff clutch in so much!
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 1,941
Likes: 0
From: Kissimmee, FL
Car: 1991 Camaro RS
Engine: 357cid
Transmission: T5 Swap
Axle/Gears: 10bolt 7.5" 3.23 soon to be 3.73
The main difference is the fact that the long or borg&beck style clutches completely suck to run in a street car. I ran a Hays B&B clutch in my 69 Camaro years ago, and it mangled release forks, broke bearing retainers, throwout bearings, you name it. With the advances in clutch technology nowadays, all you need for a hot street/strip car is a high performance diaphragm clutch (i.e. Ram Powergrip, Centerforce Dual Friction, Spec Stage 2 or 3). Just about every flywheel on the market has the proper holes in it for a diaphragm pressure plate. I don't know if a three-finger type pressure plate would work properly with the stock hydrualic linkage for sure. With a high perfomance diaphragm, you get the best of both worlds, high clamping load and light pedal pressure, just like stock. After a long night of cruising light to light with my Hays B&B, my left leg would get charlie horses from pushing such a stiff clutch in so much!
What about a light weight flywheel..... will that suck to drive or will it be worth a noticable diff in performance.???
Yeah, I've also got a Centerforce DF for mine. It seems to be a really popular choice. I've got a T5 setup all ready to replace my 700r4 as soon as the weather gets warm enough to do it. From what other members here have said, you'll have no driveablity problems with the lightweight flywheel. Your motor will be able to spool up faster with the lightweight one, but it probably won't be a gigantic difference from a normal one. Kinda the same thing as an aluminum driveshaft vs. a steel one. I've got both the standard weight and lightweight flywheels sitting on the workbench, and I'm going to try the lightweight one first. JamesC runs the lightweight flywheel in his car with 3.23's, and he says it works just fine.
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