33k miles on stock '84, should I replace rear axle bearings as routine maintenance?
SubscribeHello all,
I'm working through some maintenance tasks on my stock '84 TA, about 33,000 miles on it. I got it end of last summer and now with warmer weather coming I'm working on changing fluids, tune up, brake work, and other routine items that I have no idea when they were done last (except oil, which I did straight away last summer). I'm going to replace the front wheel bearings while I'm doing brakes since they're easy to do -- but my big question is the rear axle bearings. I have no noise/trouble with them so far as I'm aware, what I'm wondering is if I should replace the axle bearings as a matter of good maintenance since the car is 23 years old now? Thoughts on this? I'd think they're probably fine for now until they start making noise.
IF I do replace, I've browsed the forums and I've seen some of the install descriptions, but this is my first time touching the rear axle and I feel a little intimidated by the process ... here's tools/notes/questions I've gathered so far:
TOOLS
> Something to get the axle lock/cap/nut off, what do I need for this?
> I'll need a bearing puller (looks about $50-$75 for a decent one), maybe I can rent this?
> A slide hammer (how does this thing hook up/work, what does it cost, maybe also a rental tool)
> Bearing press tool
STEPS
> Drain the diff fluid
> Take off the wheel and axle locking cap/nut
> Insert the bearing puller and remove the wheel bearing, each side -- I think this is also where the slide hammer comes in, the slide hammer and bearing puller hook up together and get threaded to a wheel stud somehow and tightened to force the bearing out of the axle tube?
> Dab up new bearing with some grease
> Insert new bearing using a press or bearing install tool (I think I saw a picture in a shop manual where they have what looks like a smooth, tapered piece of wood that fits into the axle tube and you use a mallet to tap the bearing in)
I've also read in some of the forums that you can monkey around inside the differential and remove some parts so you have a clear shot through the axle tube from the other side of the car and you can put in a small pipe and kick the bearings out from the opposite side. Then I guess you install again with that press tool.
Any advice/help is appreciated, I'm a noob to this procedure and I'm trying to decide if I'm capable of doing it, or if it even needs to be done right now. Tools I can rent are preferred, I don't think I'll be doing this very often.
Thanks all.
I'm working through some maintenance tasks on my stock '84 TA, about 33,000 miles on it. I got it end of last summer and now with warmer weather coming I'm working on changing fluids, tune up, brake work, and other routine items that I have no idea when they were done last (except oil, which I did straight away last summer). I'm going to replace the front wheel bearings while I'm doing brakes since they're easy to do -- but my big question is the rear axle bearings. I have no noise/trouble with them so far as I'm aware, what I'm wondering is if I should replace the axle bearings as a matter of good maintenance since the car is 23 years old now? Thoughts on this? I'd think they're probably fine for now until they start making noise.
IF I do replace, I've browsed the forums and I've seen some of the install descriptions, but this is my first time touching the rear axle and I feel a little intimidated by the process ... here's tools/notes/questions I've gathered so far:
TOOLS
> Something to get the axle lock/cap/nut off, what do I need for this?
> I'll need a bearing puller (looks about $50-$75 for a decent one), maybe I can rent this?
> A slide hammer (how does this thing hook up/work, what does it cost, maybe also a rental tool)
> Bearing press tool
STEPS
> Drain the diff fluid
> Take off the wheel and axle locking cap/nut
> Insert the bearing puller and remove the wheel bearing, each side -- I think this is also where the slide hammer comes in, the slide hammer and bearing puller hook up together and get threaded to a wheel stud somehow and tightened to force the bearing out of the axle tube?
> Dab up new bearing with some grease
> Insert new bearing using a press or bearing install tool (I think I saw a picture in a shop manual where they have what looks like a smooth, tapered piece of wood that fits into the axle tube and you use a mallet to tap the bearing in)
I've also read in some of the forums that you can monkey around inside the differential and remove some parts so you have a clear shot through the axle tube from the other side of the car and you can put in a small pipe and kick the bearings out from the opposite side. Then I guess you install again with that press tool.
Any advice/help is appreciated, I'm a noob to this procedure and I'm trying to decide if I'm capable of doing it, or if it even needs to be done right now. Tools I can rent are preferred, I don't think I'll be doing this very often.
Thanks all.
Member
If they aren't making noise, and you have no reason to suspect them being bad or on their way out...
Then your answer is no, you don't need to replace them.
I've never replaced one myself, but if your interested, I know a few things I could correct...however you should get a manual of some sort. Haynes will work for this and they are less than $20.
84, huh. I'll assume you have drum brakes like me. My drums rust to my axle in a matter of months(heck, it rusts the wheel on to the point I need a hammer to get it off), so be sure to have some "rust penetrant"(I like PB blaster) and a large hammer handy. A foot long 2x4 helps, as well as a second set of hands.
There is no "axle lock" on the brake side of the axle. We have c-clips inside the differential. I've heard on the board if you break a c-clip, your axle will fly out of the tube. Removing a c-clip is not hard at all. From reading my haynes, it's just a bolt or two once your inside the diff.
You'll need the bearing puller, which is basically a slide hammer with the proper attachment on it. Once you have it, you'll know how to use it. You don't want to monkey around if you don't need to, do ya?? Pulling diff parts out just to replace the bearing is a recipie for a new axle.(I'd bet on it since your a self-described newbie)
Rent the bearing install tool as well. "The right tools make all the difference." I have yet to find an instance under my hood/car that this didn't hold true. Trying to jury-rig stuff will cost you hours and hours. Besides, you get your money back when you bring the tools back. At least where I get mine.
But I don't think you'll need the slide hammer to pull the axle out like non-c-clip axles.
Good luck if you decide to do it!! But I don't think they are standard maintenance. I'd change the fluid and leave it at that.
Then your answer is no, you don't need to replace them.
I've never replaced one myself, but if your interested, I know a few things I could correct...however you should get a manual of some sort. Haynes will work for this and they are less than $20.
84, huh. I'll assume you have drum brakes like me. My drums rust to my axle in a matter of months(heck, it rusts the wheel on to the point I need a hammer to get it off), so be sure to have some "rust penetrant"(I like PB blaster) and a large hammer handy. A foot long 2x4 helps, as well as a second set of hands.
There is no "axle lock" on the brake side of the axle. We have c-clips inside the differential. I've heard on the board if you break a c-clip, your axle will fly out of the tube. Removing a c-clip is not hard at all. From reading my haynes, it's just a bolt or two once your inside the diff.
You'll need the bearing puller, which is basically a slide hammer with the proper attachment on it. Once you have it, you'll know how to use it. You don't want to monkey around if you don't need to, do ya?? Pulling diff parts out just to replace the bearing is a recipie for a new axle.(I'd bet on it since your a self-described newbie)
Rent the bearing install tool as well. "The right tools make all the difference." I have yet to find an instance under my hood/car that this didn't hold true. Trying to jury-rig stuff will cost you hours and hours. Besides, you get your money back when you bring the tools back. At least where I get mine.
But I don't think you'll need the slide hammer to pull the axle out like non-c-clip axles.
Good luck if you decide to do it!! But I don't think they are standard maintenance. I'd change the fluid and leave it at that.