I have an 82 T/A with a 4 speed manual transmission. Lately it has been hard to shift but today I almost couldn't drive home because is was virtually impossible to shift. I couldn't even shift into fist gear so I had to start in second every time. I can tell my clutch isn't letting off all the way because if I put it in first and hold the clutch down the car still moves forward slowly. Now I know 82-84 birds have mechanical clutch pedals but I can not figure out how to adjust it. If someone could direct me to a site or forum that can or just explain it I would really appreciate it. Thanks!

 

You adjust the threaded rod that goes from the Z-bar to the clutch fork. Adjust it out untill the pedal has about 1/2" or so of free play. Then it should be set.

If that doesn't work, you may have a crack in one of the arms of the Z-bar. Its not uncommon, and does exactly what you are describing. I've had to weld mine up twice in the last 5 years from that.

 

How do I get access to it? Do I have to go under the car or do I go from the inside?

 

Here's how:

1) jack up the front passenger side of the car and crawl under.

2) You should see the Z bar just above where the oil filter is. There will be a pushrod attached to it that with two or 3 jam nuts on it. Two will be towards the end of the rod nearest the fork and one will be where it starts at the base.

3) loosen the one at the base, and then turn the two jam nuts nearest the fork clockwise. Try about 4 or 5 whole turns.

4) Tighten the single one towards the base of the threaded rod and get it snug (doesn't have to be super tight). You'll probably have to keep a wrench on the two nuts while tightening the one at the base and use opposing forces.

5) You CAN take a yardstick and push the clutch petal to the floor. Note the total travel, and also note the distance the petal travels before you start to feel tension.

5) Put the car back down on its wheels, and drive it around the block. If its too much or too little, adjust the same rod with the jam nuts either inward or outward.

Good luck!

 

I'm doing a conversion on my '85 and want to use the mechanical clutch setup which i see you have. I've located an 82 bellhousing ,but the trans is mounted straight up ,not the 15 degree angle . How is yours setup ? Is the trans straight up,if so what about the shifter?

 

Honestly I have no idea. Im not very familiar with the transmission. I was able to adjust the clutch but after a few days my pressure plate popped so I replacing that now.

 

The 4 speed manuals mount straight up as does the T-56 if I remember correctly

 

Yes, only the T5 was on the 18* angle.

Tripper, I have some T10 (4 speed manual) z-bar parts in my garage if you need them. Let me know.
The advice above is good, but you jack up the front DRIVERS side.... otherwise it's a long reach!

 

I'm bumping this page back up as I'm having the same problem. But I have no idea what the Z-bar is. Well I do know what it is, but I don't know how it could be broken. I adjusted the jam nuts but nothing happened.
Anybody have pics of their setup?

cross referencing threads
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tran...s-nothing.html

 

I've have the Z-bar break a few times... what happens, is that the metal 'levers' on the bar, that attach to the pedal and to the clutch fork, start to tear right where they are welded to the tubular part of the Z-bar. When it tears there, it just bends when you push in the pedal, instead of pushing on the clutch fork as it should.

 

Thank you for your reply. I will have to take a crack at this next saturday. Can't work on it during the week with classes taking my time. I looked at what is visible underneath and nothing was broke. Only looked around where the screw pushrod is though. Will take a higher look.
Thanks!
I'll take a pic if I don't understand.

 

You can usually reach those welds with your hand... feel around and see if you can feel any cracks. If it is indeed cracked bad enough that its just bending when you push the pedal, its probably opened up the crack enough that you can feel it with your finger.

 

Ok, I will try that next time. I had it up on a jack with stands so it was awkward getting there with it in the way. I'll have ramps next time and see what happens.

 

I guess I found the problem...






My camera phone is badass.
Let's see if a weld fixes this.
Had to remove 3 screws. 2 of them were 1/2s and a pain to get out. the other was bigger. they're reached from under the hood. the piece drops out of the bottom once the spring is removed.
going to be a pain to put back.
THANK YOU SO MUCH AIR ADAM!

 

It's a bear to get out isn't it?? That drove me nuts.

Based on how oily that thing is, you'll have a heck of a time getting a non-infected weld. I'd disassemble it, and clean it, then bead blast it to be sure it's clean. The inside of that tube will be so greasy....

I'd also try to weld a brace onto that, to add some strength in the direction it's required (torsionally).

Well, personally i'd use a hydraulic clutch, but that's just me...

 

I have no idea how to take it apart. I'm going to clean as much as possible with brake cleaner. As for bracing, i was thinking a hollow pipe cut to size, like a ring. I don't know about bead blasting. Don't have one on hand. We have a sand blaster in the shop, but I don't know if my boss will let me use it for this.

 

You'll go through many cans of brake kleen trying to remove that much axle grease...
I'd dip it in a parts cleaner, and scrub away with a toothbrush. You should be able to remove the ball pivot on both ends. I forget how, but it's possible. You can then replace the foam washer thingy that holds the grease in.

I *highly recommend* sandblasting/beadblasting the area that you'll be welding. If not, grind and sand the area. You'll have to make sure all the contaminants are out of the area, or the weld will be very weak. That much chassis grease (and years of it being worn into the metal) will be hard to remove.

A sleeve should help for sure.

 

I'll try to get some parts cleaner. My friend has a wire wheel for his drill so I'll try that also to see how it goes. He also has a sander and tabletop grinder. Just waiting for him cause he's out. For now I'm going to head out to home depot to see what could work as a sleeve/ring. Maybe a band clamp? Or some kind of band clamp on roids haha.

 

Uh no, nothing like that.
You should really sit down with a piece of paper and think of the best way to strengthen it. Almost any modification you do will cause a weak spot, making it weaker than factory. You've got to be very careful. Any welding you do on it may cause a weak spot where the weld blends with the old metal... be very careful.

 

Hah, I was just kidding. Really leaning towards the weld + pipe/ring setup.
If anything, I'll take it to my boss tomorrow and see what he can do.

 

Yeah, this is going to need sand blasting. Friend can't do it and clamping the pieces closer is a bit nerving as they might crack more. I'll see what my boss can do. As far as putting a sleeve around it, the welds would cause a buldge, but that could be grinded down so I don't know.
How much do these pieces go for btw?

 

Infinity billion dollars? You can't get them anymore, so you will either have to repair that one, or set up a hydraulic clutch.

 

lol I'd only go as far as one billion.
I got mine repaired. My boss said he would recommend getting it done at a welder. So I went and got it done. He stick (tig?) welded it with stainless steel and welded a steel pipe around it.
I have yet to put it on.

 

Please take pictures of the repair, and post it up. There are others that have had to repair that part with a very similar failure mode. If your repair holds up, it'll be nice to have a picture of how it was done.

 

Yessir. I installed it yesterday. Works great. The pedal actually feels a lot softer. I think it's all that bearing grease I put in. Also had to adjust the little nut and screw thing.
You can't really see the pipe, but it's there at the end.