ok first of all what gear oil does a non-wc t5 take? from what i hear it is 80-90W i threw two quarts of ATF in it when i first got it b/c they arent supposed to sit around dry from what i heard. my computer at work said the t5 took atf... so which one is it atf or 80w90?

also the new t5 has an electronic sending unit for the speedometer. my old 700r4 has the mechanical one... is there any way to change the electronic to a mechanical they are significantly different i was just wondering if its possible.

i just started on this swap. i had a problem with getting a flywheel, i ended up getting a zoom from summit and that took about 4-5days to get here. ive got everthing out, the driver seat the console shifter transmission everything... and so far i have set up the clutch and i have to hang the clutch pedals and cut the hole in the floor then run the hydrolic line and stuff, so i have a good bit left but im hoping to have it running tomaro. so please get back to me asap about this fluid and can i just fill it in the shifter hole? how many quarts does it take?

 

it will take approx 3.3 qts, so buy 4

general consensus is that ATF is best, although the camaro service manual for 87 recommends gear oil, doesn't say which weight though.

im doing the swap with a WC T5 and i have ATF waiting to go in. people have complained of noise when using gear oil.

 

so i can use atf or gear lube??


anyone else support this i dont want to use the wrong fluid.

 

Are you seriously running a non world class T5 behind a 350? It won't matter what you put in it when you blow it up. That is a bad, bad idea.

 

is that what i asked? then stfu.

 

Ok there mr. tiny trans. That is still a really bad idea. The non WC has little brass synchros so you can use either oil. The ATF is for the 3 pc friction synchros in the WC box. You are trying what many others have tried before you, there is no voodoo about the fact that you will be exceeding the torque handling capacity of that box by a factor of probably 1.5 or more. I would be afraid of losing my leg when that thing grenades through the floor. But I'm sure you're so smart you have thought this out already.

 

if you use ATF either way, WC or NON WC it will be fine. Gear Oil in WC = problems....and I've done some searching and found people complaining about the Gear Oil in NONWC T5, even though the manual calls for it.

 

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tran...?highlight=ATF

 

My 85 IROC shop manual calls for ATF; however, I'm using Mobil 1 75-90 synthetic gear lube and experiencing no ill effects whatsoever. By the by, I've been runnning that non-WC behind a 350 HO Deluxe for a couple of years. Because of the type of driver I am (yes, an old fart who would cringe at the sqwak of a tire), I fully expect the transmission to last a good long while.

JamesC

 

full syn. ATF with some regular gear oil.. about 60%/40%.. thats what i got

 

thanks guys for the help! i think im going to do the 60/40 method. and just to be sure i fill the trans through the transmission shifter hole right?

 

Fill plug at the top of the trans.

JamesC

 

maroon,
the 60/40 thing is just a really rough estimate.. i just know theres i put more ATF than gear oil.. the more ATF you put in, the easier it will shift.. and i fill through the shifter hole.. just make sure you put enough oil in there or it will shift like a rock

 

Filling it through the shifter hole is probably the easiest way. The fill plug on the side still serves a useful purpose in this task though. It's real easy to tell how much fluid to put in. As soon as it starts to trickle out of the fill plug hole, you're there. Btw, the fill plug is on the passenger side. Some people mistake the bolt on the driver's side for the fill plug. If it gets removed, things fall apart inside the trans.

 

HELP!!

i just got done putting the transmission in and crossmember and driveshaft... everything is torqued according to specs but the rearend seems to have shifted backwards (like the front pinion where the driveshaft bolts up over the u-joint is pointing up more so than in a straight line) so i cant get the torque arm on... and on the transmission yoke you can see some of the shiny part that is usually inside the tailhousing. it doesnt seem like to me the driveshaft is sitting in the transmission right like it needs to go in more... is there any difference in the t5 or 700r4 driveshafts or even crossmembers for that matter? something doesnt seem right, i have fooled with it much b/c i took a break from getting the trans in and this is where im at not and hoping for a quick answer.

factory 9 bolt rear end if that means anything... i do have lca relocation brackets so maybe thats messing with the angle... but it was fine when i took it apart.

also is there any break in for the hydrolic assembly or clutch or anything. im running a used clutch and used hydro assembly also a used tranny but im just wondering if i need to do anything b4 actually driving it?

 

just got done doing the swap today.

Dunno about the torque arm, mine went right on, cept i had to hammer it just a tad to get over the top.

Driveshaft, I didn't have any problems, but i used the one from the car I pulled the T5 from.

Crossmembers were identical.

Clutch should be fine, just make sure the slave is attached before pushing in the master cylinder rod. Make sure to bleed it. Other than those things there is no other "break in".

sorry i couldn't help more, it's hard without seeing it.

 

That comment is loaded with
The manual calls for ATF in all years of the T-5, regardless of WC vs Non-WC.
I have been running my OE 1983 T-5 behind my 320HP 350 for the past 3 years, and I'm here to say, the transmission works today, just as nice as it did with the old 305 in it.

These fears of dome and gloom about the Non-W/C T-5 need to be put to rest once and for all.
And here is proof that I'm driving my car, the way it was meant to be, and she holds up very nicely.

Sorry for the rant, guys, but anything can be driven to the breaking point, you just need to know where that is, and avoid it!.

Leon

 

Drive shafts are the same.

JamesC

 

o.k you guys sound like you know what your talking about.

so mabe you can help me out.

i need to take my car for a long trip and the speedometer didn't work so i dug in to the problem at first i thought it was the dash so i got a new one. didn't work still so i checked the speedo senser on the trans and found that the gear had fallen off and stripped all the teeth, of the senser gear, off so i replaced it. now it works........... when it wants to. it seems that after a couple miles it works fine but it dies off suddenly and even the mileage counters quit. so i was wondering if this sounded like a wire grounding out or if i need to replace the senser. i found that if i let the trans shift real hard it works or if i hit a few bumps or my brakes. any help would be appreciated i need this fixed before the 9th of this month. please help soon.

 

thank you!!

i have many friends that have ran t-5s really fast before they had problems with them, but then i have had alot of my friends say you are stupid for putting that factory piece of junk in there. i think it is going to do just fine for what im doing and it was in my price range i would have went with the t-56 if i could have afforded it at the time. i dont have a ton in it so if it does become a problem ill rebuild it not a big deal..

now i have one more question. i slipped up... i bought the b&m trick shift atf and i put in around 3.5 quarts but i started looking at the bottle and it says for type f atf!! is that a problem do i need the dexron atf? i cant believe i did this i on the back in the fine print it was atf so i assumed it was dexron but i was wrong. that stuff was like expensive so i hope it will work but if not ill buy the dexron but i need to know soon please someone answer this by tomaro b/c i plan on cranking it in the morning...????

 

Nonsense. Relocate the Torque arm off the transmission and on the transmission crossmember. BAM...case flex no more.

My 1984 Factory Service Manual reccomends using ATF and that manual preludes the WC-T5's being used. You can use gear oil. Allegedly it won't oil the syncro bearings properly. Stick with the ATF if you see a lot of stop-n-go traffic. My car mostly sees cruises and I'm using Castrol Synthetic 75-90.

My car is only pushing a measly 246hp/278ft lbs.

 

Yeah, I put regular Dex ATF with a syncro additive in my T5 behind my 350. The only problem I have ever had with the tranny was drifting from gravel to pavement with the wheels a spinnin' and ripped the rubber tranny mount in half. Pulled the other one out of my parts car, and still nothing has broken down.
I have done major burnouts, and been well over 200kph on the highway without insult. I would say that T5's are actually quite impressive for their size and "suggested" use.
Kudos on the conversion, it's worth it.

 

So can the trans be filled from the shifter hole??? without problems??

 

Yeah, using the shifter hole is probably the easiest way to fill one. Just make sure to remove the fill plug from the passenger side of the trans. That way you'll know when it's full. You want to add fluid until it just starts to trickle out of the fill plug hole.