"PDQ" U-JOINT
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Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 811
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From: 4-22 / 7-25
Car: '91 Z28 L98 G92
Engine: Modded L98
Transmission: Modded 700R4
Axle/Gears: Modded 10-Bolt
"PDQ" U-JOINT
Has or is anybody using PDQ brand u-joints from Autozone? For aluminum driveshaft applications they are priced @ 10-12 dollars. The price is what makes me hesitate to buy them. I haven't seen them. Should I just pony-up for Lakewood u-j's?
Thanks,
Bill
Thanks,
Bill
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 2,346
Likes: 1
From: Naples, FL
Car: 91 RS Camaro, 75 L82 Corvette
Engine: LO3, 383 Stroker
Transmission: 700R4, TH400
Axle/Gears: 4th gen 3.23 posi/LS1 discs, stock
Re: "PDQ" U-JOINT
"PDQ" is just Autozone's commercial division, not a brand of parts.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 811
Likes: 2
From: 4-22 / 7-25
Car: '91 Z28 L98 G92
Engine: Modded L98
Transmission: Modded 700R4
Axle/Gears: Modded 10-Bolt
Re: "PDQ" U-JOINT
So, what about the quality of them.....thanx for the reply, but I ordered the Lakewood's from JEG'S.
Bill
Bill
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 1,420
Likes: 5
From: Byhalia MS, just south of memphis
Car: 89 Firebird
Engine: 6.0 LS
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: 3.70
Re: "PDQ" U-JOINT
i would use spicer. a lil fitment tip, if the clips make movement a lil tight grind the clips down a tad as some U joints come wih a thinner style clip.
anothe thing to get the U joint to move freely is to tap on the neck of the shaft right behind the joint cap.
if the joint dosent move freely and has any sort of "hang" it will cause runout vibs.
anothe thing to get the U joint to move freely is to tap on the neck of the shaft right behind the joint cap.
if the joint dosent move freely and has any sort of "hang" it will cause runout vibs.
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 13,622
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From: Orland Park, IL
Car: 1984 Z28
Engine: SLOW carbed ls
Transmission: TH400 with brake, 8" PTC converter
Axle/Gears: moser 9" 4.11
Re: "PDQ" U-JOINT
go to napa and buy their gold line if you want quality.
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 1,420
Likes: 5
From: Byhalia MS, just south of memphis
Car: 89 Firebird
Engine: 6.0 LS
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: 3.70
Re: "PDQ" U-JOINT
also if you dont see any retaning clips then you need to heat up the caps till this plastic oozes out as those are the orig U joints.
i agree with xpndbl3, NAPA has pretty good joints also. if avail get spicer but NAPA stores are easier to find.
i agree with xpndbl3, NAPA has pretty good joints also. if avail get spicer but NAPA stores are easier to find.
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Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 811
Likes: 2
From: 4-22 / 7-25
Car: '91 Z28 L98 G92
Engine: Modded L98
Transmission: Modded 700R4
Axle/Gears: Modded 10-Bolt
Re: "PDQ" U-JOINT
The driveshaft I have (used, from Hawk's) has retainer clips at the u-joint caps. Has anyone had a bad experience with Lakewood's?
Thanks again,
Bill
Thanks again,
Bill
Re: "PDQ" U-JOINT
You only see the nylon, or plastic stuff that holds the original joints in on the steel shafts. The aluminum ones all use the outside clips. I wouldn't think you'll have any trouble with Lakewood joints, although Mr. Gasket is getting so cheap these days, I wonder if any of their stuff is worth buying anymore. The only thing you should really worry about is that since you bought them mail order, just pray that they sent you the right ones. I can't tell you how many times I've had to make two or three trips to local parts stores before getting the right part. I always take the old one with me now, saves a lot of time.
I also agree that you can't go wrong with Spicer. Auto Zone's "brute force" u-joints are very stout looking too.
I also agree that you can't go wrong with Spicer. Auto Zone's "brute force" u-joints are very stout looking too. Thread
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