When I rebuilt the rear end on the car, I of course put in new axle bearings and seals. The axles were not in bad shape but the seals are weeping a small amount of fluid onto the drum brakes. Just enough so you know it's happening. Anyway, we have a yearly vehicle safety inspection with new, really strict (really stupid) rules. My car will not pass inspection with the seals weeping. Are there better seals available or is there anything I can do to dry things up?

 

They usually leak because the bearings are bad. But since the axle IS the inner race, you have to put in new axles as well as bearings.

There are also the "repair" bearings available, that slip over the axle; those usually work fairly well.

 

I actually put a set of repair bearings in first because I already had them even though the axles weren't grooved were the bearing runs. The seal on the repair bearings is so wimpy I took them out and put regular bearings and seals back in. I guess I'll have to break down and put new axles in. On the bright side new axles will knock one more part of my list of things that could be causing the drivetrain vibration. Any place cheaper than Summit for axles ? I'm looking at about $200 per side by the time I get them in to Canada.

 

Off-set bearings? I used them with no ill effects--they didn't come with seals, though I did replace them. No leaks.

JamesC

 

Yes, SKF makes an offset repair bearing with a tiny seal built in. The offset actually brings the face of the bearing with the seal outside the axle tube. It's a great idea but didn't work for me.

 

Not really; they're about as cheap there as anywhere.

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...SAG%2DEV10%2D4

 

There are two potential problems here if you have new bearings and seals - either the surface of the axle shaft was worn away slightly by the old seal (very common on S10s and Astro vans of the era actually) for which you can get something called a 'speedi-sleeve'. All this is, is a very thin (maybe .010")little tube that slides over the axle shaft where its worn by the seal and basucally just makes for a new surface for the new oil seal to mate to. They work fairly well if thats the problem.

The other problem could be the seal itself - some are better than others. The cheap kind, like SKF, has only a minimal amount of rubber to butt up to the axle. The problem is that there isn't enough rubber to seal it up really well. National or CR seals usually have a much bigger rubber 'flange' and because of that they seal up better.

 

The axles sofa showed there at 28 spline, be aware you want 26 spline for your car (if it's got the stock carrier).

You're right though, it'd be $350 by the time you're opening the box. It might be worth trying a better seal?
NS has laws that strict?!? Geez...

 

Sonix you wouldn't believe how ridiculous the vehicle inspection system has gotten down here. A guy I work with failed inspection for door pins. His 98 Camaro door was sagging a bit and they dinged him for structural integrity. It is basically wide open for the dishonest inspector to rape you for whatever he wants.

 

Good god! That's the hippie liberal eastern government for you... A girl I knew went through a roadside vehicle checkpoint in Ontario. They can inspect your car on the roadside, and impound it right there, (out in the country) and hit you for a gigantic tow bill to get it back home.
There would be riots if the government tried to pull that crap in Alberta, good ol' Ralphy wouldn't let that happen.
I guess you've gotta know a guy in the inspection business and grease his palms eh?

 

Just a quick tech question here. Are you making sure to put a little oil on the rubber lip of the seals before you slide the axles back in? If you leave them dry, the axle surface can burn the rubber lip and cause it to start leaking again. I always make sure to do this. I also smear a really thin layer of rtv around the outside, metal surface of the seal before driving it into the axle tube for a little extra insurance. Never had a seal leak yet doing it this way.