I actually have a clutch system for you. It's a napa brand no miles. call me @918-894-1344
u pay shipping I give clutch to you

 

IT IS a NAPA BRONZE INLEAD CLUTCH I have it as a backup. Been there for 5 years. have not needed yet

 

hi , i just called you...ok ..let me know...thanks,

 

I pulled my 700R4 out myself. Here is my way of thinking. My transmission already lost most of the gears when it was in the car and I doubt there is a big demand for transmissions needing a rebuilt. So when I pulled it out it was on a jack stand. I just kind of wiggled it out and eventually it fell on its side and then I slid it out. If I'm not going to reuse it then who cares what happens to it. That's just me though. I'm at the phase now where I will be putting the new starter and flywheel on in the next few days.

 

i saved my 700r4 because it is in perfect working condition...it even has a corvette servo i installed a couple of years ago...i was thinking about putting it up for sale.

 

what do i do with the cable that is attached to the auto shifter?...the one you need to press the brakes to make it come out of park?...will i need this with a manual?...can i just remove it from the steering columm without any issues?...thankyou.

 

Thanks for for the help so far. So do you think I need two jacks. One to hold engine and one to lower/raise transmission? Also Can I just jack up the front of the car or should the rear be on jack stands as well?

When you are putting in the manual tranny do the bolts need to be torqued to a certain spec or is it good enough to just screw them in till they are tight?

Thanks

 

I have rims that i put the wheels on, they give about a foot more of clearance, you need 1 jack stand to hold the engine, i recomend putting a piece of wood on it then put it under the oil pan, the you will need a jack to hold up the trans, once yanked out all you have to do is let the jack down and roll it out

 

you should torque all bolts to specs,,and also jack the car up in front and rear with 4 good solid jackstands and you will need 2 floor jacks,,one for under the engine , put a small piece of wood underneath the oil pan not to damage it with the weight...the other floor jack is for lowering and raising the transmission.

 

i found that if you remove the distributor cap, and clear any wires out of the way, the engine will rest on the exhaust and not fall back.
i left it resting on the exhaust with nothing underneath for 3 days when i had to take a break in my auto-auto swap.
might not have been the smartest thing, but it worked for me.
if you want to support the engine, a floor jack with wood placed against the oil pan, or the flywheel/flexplate will do fine.

 

Im trying to start getting prices and the exact parts I will need. For the flywheel how do you know if you need the 153 or the 168 tooth flywheel?

Can anyone list the parts they bought new to do this swap?

Also the one thing Im seeing having trouble locating is the master cyclinder for the clutch that attaches to the firewall on the engine. anyone know where to find one? Or maybe I have the name wrong cause I think they call the "Hydraulic or manual release mechanism" is this right?

Thanks

 

hi , i am right in the middle of doing this swap myself,,i am doing it slowly on extra time i have, don't hesitate for any other help you need ..i have been asking questions myself and the people here on 3rd gen are amazing and very kind..1st off you need to make sure your engine is original or has been replaced(like mine has) and check the year ...this will save you a lot of grief,,i had so many problems because my engine is a 350 and pre 1985,,,my flywheel was a 168 tooth with the 700r4 and the T5 bellhousing only takes a 153 tooth 13' flywheel,,and my engine is 2 pce rear seal..so i thought i could move my starter over to the smaller flywheel ,,i can't because my starter has offset bolts and if i wanted to move over the starter i would need to drill holes in my block and tap new threads,,not something i wanted to do ,,so i got a 14' 168 flywheel with bolts holes that accept the stock 10.5 clutch and a lakewood bellhousing that takes this 14' flywheel and fits on the T5...if your engine is stock ,,then you can forget what i just wrote,,,things you need?..well of course a T5 transmission ..the later models like 1988 + are better..a shifter,,,pedal assembly and slave master cylinder clutch kit,,,a torque arm mounting bracket because the 700r4 one and the T5 aren't the same exactly..clutch kit...... also the shifter plate on your inside console and a lot of patience because you need to make a hole for your shifter and one for the clutch pedal and slave assembly..but it can be done and your car will be manual!,,,good luck.

 

I did the swap also and was wonfering on the steering column I have the Neutral/Park lockout cable still, is there a way of easily removing or modifying the cable and have it still start???

 

it really is quite easy

 

same here , i have that cable hanging around now...can i remove it?

 

have you guys forgotten to ask about the transmission lines that go to the radiator?...what will happen to those after the conversion? just bypass them or what? im planning on doin it after the engine is broken into.

 

no , i know about the automatic trans cooler lines...i will just remove them with no problems..as for that linkage that was on the auto shifter ...can it be unscrewed at the steering columm?..i hate that thing just hanging around...if i just cut it ..will there be any issues?....thankyou.

 

so what will you do to them just cap the outlets on the radiator??

 

you just gotta remove it...
hope this helps u http://www.fbodymotorsports.com/thirdgen5spdconversion

 

yes, i guess just put some kind of tap on them ,,if i change my rad one day ,,i will get one for a manual car then...

 

ok thanks...but how does it come off the steering coluum?..screws?

 

I just converted my 1990 G92 5.7 to a T5. Remove the Trans lines. You don't have to cap off the radiator if you don't want to. The fluid has leak out anyway.

For some of you who is doing it for the first time, Get the car high enough on 4 jack stands. You only need 1 big floor jack to raise and lower both trans. The engine will support itself if the exhaust is still hook up. You want the engine to lean down so you can reach the bolts above the bellhousing. It will be fine. Mine was resting for 2 months and no damage. You can buy a pilot bearing from Jegs or Summit for $12-$13. And no it did not take me 2 month to get it in. I did an engine swap also. You can reuse the trans mount, crossmember, torque arm and stock driveshaft with no modification. In all of our cars under the carpet, there's a padding with imprint where you can use to cut out for the clutch master cylinder. You will need a mini starter. A LT1 starter is a good choice. The stock starter bolts are too long. You can buy some new ones or use washers or spacers to make it work.

The computer will be looking for a lockup converter. Also it may not idle well or it may stall when coming to a stop. If so, you may need a little chip tuning.

 

hello fellas. i swapped my turbo 350 for a t5. i got a 307 small block v8. and now my starter from auto trans wont lign up with old ones. do i need new starter or am i doing something wrong?

 

are starters from auto trans different from manual? size maybe? the holes on my starter wont lign up now that i have a t5 manual trans

 

right now im debating doing this after my 350 is installed and running and i know where theres a t5 at a reasonable price, is there a parts list i missed for this somewhere? i wanna know what i need besides
transmission
bellhousing
shifter
clutch/pressure plate
flywheel
pilot bearing
3rd gen clutch and brake pedals, i think im missing master cylinder and slave cylinder, anything else?
will the 700r4 crossmember work? and my starter has to be ground down i guess? my car (87)has vss and the tranny i would get is from a 90 'bird, will my speedo work ok? i actully think the tranny had the same rear gear behind it (3.23)but i am upgrading to a 3.73 in a little while. anyone know how much weight this is worth over a 700r4? im guessing almost 100lbs??
i apologize if im jacking this thread i just thought it was pertainent

 

I too am curious about this... anyone have an answer? Do you HAVE to use a jack or will it try to roll back/forward w/o having it in place?

 

that's what i did ,,a jack and piece of wood under the pan ..watch your distributor against the firewall...at least remove the cap...

 

I used nothing. With poly motor mounts the engine will stay up on it's own.

 

my engine didn't move much , but to be on the safe side i had a jack on a small block of wood supporting it from the pan...

 

Has anyone else run into this? I've heard of this before and am curious if I'll run into it on my '91 Z28...

 

Never happened to me on my 5 speed swap. I think it only stalls when stopping if you don't hook up the speed sensor. As long as thats hooked up, the computer knows when the car is driving and when it's stopped.

 

can't find website for Young's about swap...getting ready to try coverting automatic to manual...

 

Is this metal slave cyl cover supposed to go like this or should it be covering up the fork?

 

That is the correct way. It's protecting the plastic slave cylinder from road damage. Pretty difficult if not impossible to bolt up the other way, I think.