I swapped a 96 T56 into my 92RS over Christmas break and everything went as smoothly as could be expected. However, when I try to engage the clutch from a stand still I get a terrible vibration. I also get the vibration when I up-shift and down-shift if the engine RPMs arent matched to the transmission. Essentially, I can't get the clutch to slip like it should. I thought it was just being grabby because it was a new clutch and needed to wear in a bit. It has gotten better but only marginally so. I have heard that it takes 450 - 600 miles of normal driving to break a new clutch in, but I'm approaching 350 or so and I don't think it's as far along as it should be. Once I get going it feels great, no vibrations at all under acceleration or at speed, as long I hit the right shift points. Anyone know what could be wrong with it?

 

did u swap to fourth gen pedals 2?

 

Sure did

 

Did you figure it out? I'm having the same exact problem...

 

I don't know if I ever really "figured it out" haha. At the time it had the stock 305 motor and 2.73 rear in it. I think the tall gearing coupled with the new performance clutch and weak stock motor made it vibrate really bad as I tried to feather the clutch out from a stand still.
Since then I've swapped in an LS2 and T56 from an '05 GTO along with a 12 bolt rear with 3.73 gears, and she's a blast!
I would guess that the majority of similar vibration issues would most likely be attributable to the clutch, whether it needs to be broken in more or wasn't installed exactly right or something like that. I think my other factors (weak motor, tall rear gear) just exacerbated the clutch problem. I hope that helps. I know it's incredibly frustrating for it not to work smoothly after putting everything up in there.

 

Well I had my trans out and back in about 15 times now fighting this issue. I checked the runout of the flywheel with a dial indicator. It said it was .008" out. I tried a second flywheel and it too was the exact .008 out. So I initially though I have to deal with it as it seemed my crank flange wasn't 100% true. Then one day I beat on it a little and the the chatter got bad and could be felt in the clutch pedal now.

I pulled it all apart and found severe bluing in one area of the flywheel. Also for the heck of it checked the runout again. I wrote down the readings on the face of the flywheel when it dawned on me. The side the was engaging first shown by the bluing was the LOW side not the high side. What I found was that the pressure plate was the problem. It was not releasing perfectly square. In a moment of desperation I ground down the pads that touch the flywheel opposite the low spot. Measuring with some feeler gauges I took about .008" off. This moves the side that wasn't engaging closer to the flywheel compensating for the uneven release of the pressure plate.

I put the car back together and the clutch is perfectly smooth. I believe in my case it was because I bought a cheap clutch kit. It also proves flywheel runout isn't everything. A quality pressure plate is more important.

Don't believe in the break-in theory especially if it is so bad it shakes the car to death. All you are doing is overheating one side of the flywheel eventually making the problem worse.

 

I can also feel the vibration in my clutch pedal and its really tough to get moving without stalling. I have a ram aluminum flywheel and ram muscle car clutch kit. I had my flywheel balanced with my rotating assembly as well. If I don't shift and release the pedal quickly the vibration is just as bad as takeoff...