I bought the Hanlon video but it is more towards the wc tranny, I'am trying to get the cluster gear out but it seems to be pressed in, it don't have that bolted on part the video shows, How do I get it out? I don't won't to crack the case so which way does it have to come out?
Thanks

 

This is a 1st design I take it?

YOu are correct, it is all a press fit. However it's not a very "heavy" one at all.

Easiest way to get it out is to set the case up on its rear, on a couple of wood blocks or something, so the end of the countergear is held up off the ground about 1" or more; and use a dead-blow hammer, or a large socket with a piece of wood on top as a cushion and a regular hammer, and just knock the front bearing GENTLY into the trans. This will of course press the front bearing inwards, its inner edge will press on the thrust washer, which will press on the gear, which will press on the rear bearing's spacer, which will press on the rear bearing; so the whole assembly will be moving toward the rear of the case. There's no need to beat it hard, it will come out fairly easily. Once the rear bearing is out of its bore, slip it off, tilt the front end of the gear to the side, and lift it out. Be VERY careful with all this, as the 1st-R teeth on the CG, and then the CG's 5th gear splines, will be busy trying to chew up the case all around the rear CG bearing bore. You DO NOT want to damage the case around there.

Pay attention to which parts are in which order so you can put the spacer back the way it came out. You should have new bearings and a thrust washer in your kit. Note that the rear CG bearing is the same part # as the axle bearing for your 10-bolt rear.

 

I'am beating it pretty hard and it still is not budging... I'am afraid to hit too hard as I'am scared I will crack the case..Any other ideas I might can do to free it up some?

 

Which bearing isn't moving?

If the front one moves but the rear one doesn't, it should take up all the end play out of the gear. If that's the case, then put the support blocks right next to the 5th gear part of the CG, and use more force.

If the front one isn't moving, then ..... nothing will seem to be happening at all. That's pretty rare. In that case, you really have no choice but to just use more force.

In either case, you just have to use more force; the difference is, how much more, and what to watch to see when you're using enough.

Does it really need that done to it? What's wrong with it? Keeping in mind, that the countergear itself, IS the inner race of its bearings, just like axles; so if the bearings are fried, so is the gear.

 

There are some teeth that are a chipped and scored really bad and also had a lot of play I replacing the CG,

My setup is 2 sawhorses and I have the shaft going down in between them I'am pounding pretty hard I put a mark just to see if it was moving and It moved very very little. now it seems not to be moving at all!

 

Well, not much to do except use more force... just increase your poundage a little at a time, until you find the point where it becomes "enough".

 

Just to make sure I'am trying to drive it down in the right spot here is a picture.
http://onfinite.com/libraries/1338801/3c8.jpg

 

I now have a press would this be a correct setup to press that shaft out?
I'am just asking because I really don't won't to crack the case.
http://onfinite.com/libraries/1339160/dd2.jpg

 

Looks like you've got it set up correctly in the press. The only thing I would suggest is try to scrounge up a big socket that's just a tad smaller than the front bearing cup to use for pressing it down. It should apply better force by using something that's close to the same diameter as the front bearing cup. If you have a fairly thick piece of flat steel laying around, you can use that between the socket and the press arbor so that everything stays lined up and even while pressing.

 

Right: that's correct as far as setting up the press, but you DEFINITELY need something to spread out the load on that bearing out to its edges; it's just a sort of "cup", not very thick at all, so pressing on the middle of it like that could distort it and totally destroy the case in the process. A large socket, like Pat said, is about perfect. Something about like a FWD axle nut socket or the like ("rent" one at AutoZone? take your new bearing with you to match the OD).

 

Ok I did get the cluster out, But I was putting way too much pressure for that front bearing race to go down in the trans, So I just took a brass punch on the gear inside and knocked out the rear bearing, And then I was able to knock the front bearing out towards the front, I was looking at the front bearing race and there was no way it could have came out towards the rear as there was a lip on that race not allowing to go towars the rear, so anyone doing this double check for that lip as you can crack the case if you try to press into trans.

 

Are you trying to say that your case looked like this one? If so, it's garbage; it didn't start out life that way, it got like that from stretching, and the CG bearing spinning, and wearing that shape into it. If yours looks like this one, don't bother rebuilding a trans in it, it won't last. That's why this one is sitting here instead of being in a trans.

 

You are exactly right, You are lucky you didn't damage the case. The earlier NWC tranny's are designed so the front countershaft bearing presses in from the outside (and hits a machined lip). The WC tranny's are opposite, the bearing presses in from the inside. The proper way to remove the bearing on a NWC tranny is how you ended up doing it, a brass drift punch on the fat counter gear (or in a press pushing on that gear). The reason for this important difference is because the WC T5 uses tapered bearings on the countershaft (part of increasing the torque rating on it). The taper points toward the outside of the case so the bearing naturally needs to have a "stop" to prevent it from being pushed out of the case, hence it is installed from the inside.

If you had it in a press and were pressing hard on the front bearing, i would carfully inspect the case or have it checked for stress cracks.

Don't forget to use a tiny bit of red loctite when you tap the new front bearing into place, and then sealant on the outside like from the factory.

 

The bearing itself has the lip on it, not the hole it came out of, I doubled checked the hole and it seems to be fine, no grooves at all, It looks like to me the bearing was made that way, glad I stopped using the press as I would have cracked it, but I will take it and have it checked for stress cracks I was hoping to get it all done this weekend but I still have 1 other part I got from member here to come in anyway so might as well take it and get it hot tanked and checked.