Dual friction vs "regular" clutch?
Thread Starter
Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 101
Likes: 0
From: Canada
Car: 86 IROC
Engine: 350
Transmission: 5 speed
Axle/Gears: limited slip
Dual friction vs "regular" clutch?
I'm replacing the clutch in my IROC and am going with a Center Force.
Anyone have any opinion on the Center Force II vs their dual friction.
My car is street driven only with a bored, balanced and blue printed 350.
Stock gears, tires and T5 tranny.
Anyone have any opinion on the Center Force II vs their dual friction.
My car is street driven only with a bored, balanced and blue printed 350.
Stock gears, tires and T5 tranny.
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 20,981
Likes: 11
From: Mercedes Norte, Heredia, Costa Rica
Car: 1984 Z28 Hardtop
Engine: 383 Carb
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 3.54 Dana 44
Re: Dual friction vs "regular" clutch?
A single friction clutch is going to be able to deal more abuse than the T5 itself can handle.
Supreme Member
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 1,941
Likes: 0
From: Kissimmee, FL
Car: 1991 Camaro RS
Engine: 357cid
Transmission: T5 Swap
Axle/Gears: 10bolt 7.5" 3.23 soon to be 3.73
Re: Dual friction vs "regular" clutch?
I have a dual friction... awesome clutch and takes all the abuse i give it ( drifting, racing, etc.) the tranny on the other hand is starting to not like to take 2nd gear.... lol
Thread Starter
Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 101
Likes: 0
From: Canada
Car: 86 IROC
Engine: 350
Transmission: 5 speed
Axle/Gears: limited slip
Re: Dual friction vs "regular" clutch?
I don't abuse my car, no power shifting, etc. If I mash the go pedal..I shift using the clutch.
I'm more concerned with added performance, clutch longevity,etc.
Is the dual friction worth the extra $$.
I'm more concerned with added performance, clutch longevity,etc.
Is the dual friction worth the extra $$.
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 641
Likes: 1
Car: 91 RS
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.45
Re: Dual friction vs "regular" clutch?
nice thread as im on the same page as you, im looking to replace my clutch as the motor is getting pulled out, so im going to yank it out and replace it then. i think ill go with a dual friction though...
Supreme Member
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 1,941
Likes: 0
From: Kissimmee, FL
Car: 1991 Camaro RS
Engine: 357cid
Transmission: T5 Swap
Axle/Gears: 10bolt 7.5" 3.23 soon to be 3.73
Re: Dual friction vs "regular" clutch?
i never could powershift... lol... then again my tranny is wore out...
Member
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 131
Likes: 0
From: Mississauga, Ontario, Canada
Car: 1984 Chevrolet Camaro Z28
Engine: Carb'd LT1 w/ a Cam :)
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: Moser 9" w/ 3.75 gears
Re: Dual friction vs "regular" clutch?
DONT power shift with a T5. You will break the tranny so fast you have no idea!
As for what power shifting is...power shifting is when you're WOT and at redline when you go to shift to the next gear, you dont lift your foot off the gas.
As for what power shifting is...power shifting is when you're WOT and at redline when you go to shift to the next gear, you dont lift your foot off the gas.
Trending Topics
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 10,950
Likes: 26
From: Orange, SoCal
Car: 1990 Pontiac Trans Am
Engine: 355 TPI siamesed runners
Transmission: Tremec T56
Axle/Gears: 12-Bolt 3.73
Re: Dual friction vs "regular" clutch?
Yes, I have an opinion, Centerfarce is garbage. Their weight system usually ends up hanging up the clutch and causing problems.
Get a McLeod instead.
Get a McLeod instead.
Re: Dual friction vs "regular" clutch?
I'm kinda leery of the weight gimmickry on the Centerforces too. Some people love them, others have had nothing but trouble with them. Along with Kevin's suggestion of McLeod, also look into the Ram Powergrip or Spec's Stage I or Stage II clutches. The standard duty Ram Powergrip should be more than adequate for your needs. The HD version is over $300, and it's probably more clutch than you actually need. Here's a link for the Ram clutch at Summit Racing. http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku Btw, Zoom Performance also offers a multi-friction clutch that uses Kevlar on the flywheel side, and it's more affordable. http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
Last edited by Pat Hall; Aug 6, 2008 at 05:54 AM.
Thread Starter
Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 101
Likes: 0
From: Canada
Car: 86 IROC
Engine: 350
Transmission: 5 speed
Axle/Gears: limited slip
Re: Dual friction vs "regular" clutch?
thanks for the info and suggestions guys. I'll check into the other companies. I'd hate to be pulling the tranny again to fix a fubar clutch.
Supreme Member
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 1,440
Likes: 2
From: huntsville, al
Car: 89 IROC
Engine: 6.8 HSR N2O
Transmission: TKO 600
Axle/Gears: 9" Moser 3.50 True trac
Re: Dual friction vs "regular" clutch?
No experiance with Centerforce, but I strongly recommend the Ram Powergrip HD. It has a super heavy duty pressure plate, a 8 puck metallic disc with a beefy hub and is rated for 700 hp. Make sure you get the Powergrip "HD".
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
(It's the "pretty" hot pink one!) I believe I paid around $325. I use it in my daily driver and occasionally race at the track. With a mild 350 and 250 hp on nitrous I guesstimate power at around 550 hp. The car dead hooks at my local strip and I have had zero clutch issues. There is a little chatter at times on the street but it's pretty easy to adjust driving habits to minimize it. Clutch feel is heavier than stock but fine for daily use IMO. I previously ran the Zoom multi friction with kevlar on one side and organic on the other and it lasted only 5 or 6 hard passes at the strip (without nitrous) and I don't recommend it.
And as far as the T5 goes, I haven't had any problems. I launch fairly hard but don't power shift it. Bear in mind that I'm using the nitrous off the line and only have a 3.27 rear gear. That's a lot of strain on the entire clutch/tranny/driveshaft system. (runs 7.98 @ 93 1/8 mi) I may be pushing my luck or just plain lucky cause a lot of people report having problems. Of course it'll probably blow the next time out!
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
(It's the "pretty" hot pink one!) I believe I paid around $325. I use it in my daily driver and occasionally race at the track. With a mild 350 and 250 hp on nitrous I guesstimate power at around 550 hp. The car dead hooks at my local strip and I have had zero clutch issues. There is a little chatter at times on the street but it's pretty easy to adjust driving habits to minimize it. Clutch feel is heavier than stock but fine for daily use IMO. I previously ran the Zoom multi friction with kevlar on one side and organic on the other and it lasted only 5 or 6 hard passes at the strip (without nitrous) and I don't recommend it.
And as far as the T5 goes, I haven't had any problems. I launch fairly hard but don't power shift it. Bear in mind that I'm using the nitrous off the line and only have a 3.27 rear gear. That's a lot of strain on the entire clutch/tranny/driveshaft system. (runs 7.98 @ 93 1/8 mi) I may be pushing my luck or just plain lucky cause a lot of people report having problems. Of course it'll probably blow the next time out!
Last edited by antman89iroc; Aug 6, 2008 at 11:19 AM.
Thread Starter
Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 101
Likes: 0
From: Canada
Car: 86 IROC
Engine: 350
Transmission: 5 speed
Axle/Gears: limited slip
Re: Dual friction vs "regular" clutch?
tks antman. That looks like a little more clutch then I need on the street though.
Which was the big reason I was looking at the CF..more clamping pressure but not the change in clutch pedal pressure.
I do a lot of town and back road driving and shift a lot..I don't want to end up with a left leg like Arnies and a right leg like Mr Bean. lol
Which was the big reason I was looking at the CF..more clamping pressure but not the change in clutch pedal pressure.
I do a lot of town and back road driving and shift a lot..I don't want to end up with a left leg like Arnies and a right leg like Mr Bean. lol
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 19,282
Likes: 103
From: Lawrence, KS
Car: Met. Silver 85 IROC/Sold
Engine: 350 HO Deluxe (350ci/330hp)
Transmission: T-5 (Non-WC)
Axle/Gears: Limited Slip 3.23's
Re: Dual friction vs "regular" clutch?
I use the CenterForce II behind a 350/330 HO Deluxe. Zero problems, though I drive like the old fart I am. Based on my experience, I'd recommend it.
JamesC
JamesC
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 741
Likes: 0
From: Azusa, CA
Car: 92 Z28 Camaro
Engine: Procharged 406.
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: Moser 9" 4.11 Gears
Re: Dual friction vs "regular" clutch?
Mcleod Super Street Pro is the equivilant to the Centerforce unit you were looking at without the counter weight business.
Supreme Member
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 1,440
Likes: 2
From: huntsville, al
Car: 89 IROC
Engine: 6.8 HSR N2O
Transmission: TKO 600
Axle/Gears: 9" Moser 3.50 True trac
Re: Dual friction vs "regular" clutch?
tks antman. That looks like a little more clutch then I need on the street though.
Which was the big reason I was looking at the CF..more clamping pressure but not the change in clutch pedal pressure.
I do a lot of town and back road driving and shift a lot..I don't want to end up with a left leg like Arnies and a right leg like Mr Bean. lol
Which was the big reason I was looking at the CF..more clamping pressure but not the change in clutch pedal pressure.
I do a lot of town and back road driving and shift a lot..I don't want to end up with a left leg like Arnies and a right leg like Mr Bean. lol
Naw man it's not like that, my wife drives this car! Really, the clutch pedal isn't that much stiffer. But suit yourself. It does chatter sometimes which can be annoying. My experiance with the "middle of the road" stuff is that it isn't durable enough for my driving style and a trip to the track now and then. I would either go stock or Ram HD.
If you aren't looking for something that will hold up to abuse then the Zoom MF may be good for you. The pedal was super easy and it held up OK for the daily commute. It's not for racing or serious street though. As for Centerforce, some have great experiances, others not so great. I'll defer to those who've used it. However, I chose not to.
Opinions are like belly buttons, right? Everyone has one. Good luck. You really can't go wrong with most the top brands if you don't drive it like you stole it!
Thread Starter
Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 101
Likes: 0
From: Canada
Car: 86 IROC
Engine: 350
Transmission: 5 speed
Axle/Gears: limited slip
Re: Dual friction vs "regular" clutch?
Thanks for the input. I don't race my car and considering I'm a Fed LEO..I don't street race either.. 
However I don't drive like a blue hair and my engine isn't stock so I want something that will stand up.

However I don't drive like a blue hair and my engine isn't stock so I want something that will stand up.
Re: Dual friction vs "regular" clutch?
Considering your application, that's why I pointed you towards the standard duty, Ram Powergrip instead of the HD version. I'm running the standard duty Powergrip behind a pretty stout 350 in my 69 Camaro, and I've had zero problems with it. No chattering and pedal effort is moderate. Of course it has mechanical linkage. With the hydraulic linkage, it probably won't feel much different from a stock clutch. I actually do have to agree with Antman that either of the Ram clutches would probably be a better choice than the Zoom. Zoom is kinda on par with Mr. Gasket products as far as quality. Ram is definitely a better brand. I ran a Hays clutch years ago, which is made by Mr. Gasket, and it was a POS. The Ram has worked great in comparison. McLeod would sell a lot more clutches if they actually had more information available. Every time I look them up in Summit or Jegs, all you seem to be able to find listed is their mega-expensive Street Twin ($1000)
and a bunch of odd, circle track applications. Whatever the case, I'd still recommend either Ram or Spec. Both are well known and widely used.
and a bunch of odd, circle track applications. Whatever the case, I'd still recommend either Ram or Spec. Both are well known and widely used. Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 5,703
Likes: 132
From: Orange, CA
Car: '90 Trans Am-12.45@110.71
Engine: 355 w/AFR 195's Elem. 400/430 HP/TQ
Transmission: Tremec T-56
Axle/Gears: 12 Bolt 3.73
Re: Dual friction vs "regular" clutch?
Here is the deal on the McLeod.
All of our manual setups call for a 10.4 pressure plate and disk.
McLeod makes a better setup but they don't list it as a GM replacement.
It is made for Chrysler products, but it has a 10 1/2" bolt pattern but uses a 11" plate.
The disk is an 11" trimmed to 10.95 and uses special bolts (round head instead of hex) at the contact point, but still uses a hex 1/2"socket.
If you try to use any other bolts you are screwed.(bolts are furnished)
Now for the part #'s the disk is dual friction and is a 26 splined unit #260871
The pressure plate is #360710
I have been using this combo for many years, like some other dual friction units, if you slide it, it will get sticky and chatter a little.
It is a great street and strip unit.
Why they don't list it for GM, I don't know.
HTH
All of our manual setups call for a 10.4 pressure plate and disk.
McLeod makes a better setup but they don't list it as a GM replacement.
It is made for Chrysler products, but it has a 10 1/2" bolt pattern but uses a 11" plate.
The disk is an 11" trimmed to 10.95 and uses special bolts (round head instead of hex) at the contact point, but still uses a hex 1/2"socket.
If you try to use any other bolts you are screwed.(bolts are furnished)
Now for the part #'s the disk is dual friction and is a 26 splined unit #260871
The pressure plate is #360710
I have been using this combo for many years, like some other dual friction units, if you slide it, it will get sticky and chatter a little.
It is a great street and strip unit.
Why they don't list it for GM, I don't know.
HTH
Supreme Member
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 1,440
Likes: 2
From: huntsville, al
Car: 89 IROC
Engine: 6.8 HSR N2O
Transmission: TKO 600
Axle/Gears: 9" Moser 3.50 True trac
Re: Dual friction vs "regular" clutch?
Glad you chimed back in. I have a high opinion of the RAM products, but haven't used the one you recommended. I would probably try that one or even the "OE replacement" version before I'd go back to the Zoom.
And when I say serious street I'm not necessarily talking about illegal street racing. I'm just stating an opinion that a car set up for occasional track racing generally needs heavier duty parts than stock. My car is "serious" for a daily driven street car, to me anyway. When and if you get the urge to see what times it's capable of at the track, it's a real bummer babying it home cause the clutch couldn't take a half dozen blasts down the track when you finally get some traction!
Last edited by antman89iroc; Aug 8, 2008 at 07:01 AM.
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 1,992
Likes: 10
From: CT
Car: 1986 Camaro SC
Engine: 305 TPI Procharged D1SC
Transmission: Tremec TKO-600
Axle/Gears: Moser 12 Bolt 3.73 posi
Re: Dual friction vs "regular" clutch?
i have a dual friction, and i abuse the crap out of it, i've had no issues whats so ever it's fine behind my 305
Senior Member
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 805
Likes: 3
From: Charleston, SC
Car: '85 TA
Engine: 350 turbo
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.70 posi 9bolt
Re: Dual friction vs "regular" clutch?
I used the CF dual friction for over a year behind my turboed 350 & T5. It held up great (street car) and I have no complaints. It outlasted my first T5 and when I swapped in the T56, the clutch pp/disc were still able to be reused for the next guy.
Thread Starter
Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 101
Likes: 0
From: Canada
Car: 86 IROC
Engine: 350
Transmission: 5 speed
Axle/Gears: limited slip
Re: Dual friction vs "regular" clutch?
And when I say serious street I'm not necessarily talking about illegal street racing. I'm just stating an opinion that a car set up for occasional track racing generally needs heavier duty parts than stock. My car is "serious" for a daily driven street car, to me anyway. When and if you get the urge to see what times it's capable of at the track, it's a real bummer babying it home cause the clutch couldn't take a half dozen blasts down the track when you finally get some traction!
Re: Dual friction vs "regular" clutch?
Supreme Member
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 1,941
Likes: 0
From: Kissimmee, FL
Car: 1991 Camaro RS
Engine: 357cid
Transmission: T5 Swap
Axle/Gears: 10bolt 7.5" 3.23 soon to be 3.73
Re: Dual friction vs "regular" clutch?
i beat the hell outta that tranny and im suprised i havent split the case
Junior Member
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 99
Likes: 0
From: Fayetteville, NC
Car: '92 Camaro RS
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: Richmond Gear street 5 speed
Re: Dual friction vs "regular" clutch?
A CF dual-friction was the first replacement clutch I ever put on my Camaro. I had no problems with it at all. I abused the snot out of that clutch with lots of hard down shifts to drop speed from 120mph down to around 40mph (with a stock T5..prolly why my T5 only lasted 80,000 miles). Only issue with the CF was getting used to the almost non-existent pedal pressure.
Member
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 246
Likes: 0
From: Cali
Car: 1992 Z28
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: World Class T-5 5speed manual Trans
Axle/Gears: STOCK G92 performance 3.42
Re: Dual friction vs "regular" clutch?
go with the regular clutch. DF's are gonna be harsh engagement and shake the car if you like to engage at less than 1500 rpm. Hands down REGULAR.
The end
The end
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 641
Likes: 1
Car: 91 RS
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.45
Re: Dual friction vs "regular" clutch?
Here is the deal on the McLeod.
All of our manual setups call for a 10.4 pressure plate and disk.
McLeod makes a better setup but they don't list it as a GM replacement.
It is made for Chrysler products, but it has a 10 1/2" bolt pattern but uses a 11" plate.
The disk is an 11" trimmed to 10.95 and uses special bolts (round head instead of hex) at the contact point, but still uses a hex 1/2"socket.
If you try to use any other bolts you are screwed.(bolts are furnished)
Now for the part #'s the disk is dual friction and is a 26 splined unit #260871
The pressure plate is #360710
I have been using this combo for many years, like some other dual friction units, if you slide it, it will get sticky and chatter a little.
It is a great street and strip unit.
Why they don't list it for GM, I don't know.
HTH
All of our manual setups call for a 10.4 pressure plate and disk.
McLeod makes a better setup but they don't list it as a GM replacement.
It is made for Chrysler products, but it has a 10 1/2" bolt pattern but uses a 11" plate.
The disk is an 11" trimmed to 10.95 and uses special bolts (round head instead of hex) at the contact point, but still uses a hex 1/2"socket.
If you try to use any other bolts you are screwed.(bolts are furnished)
Now for the part #'s the disk is dual friction and is a 26 splined unit #260871
The pressure plate is #360710
I have been using this combo for many years, like some other dual friction units, if you slide it, it will get sticky and chatter a little.
It is a great street and strip unit.
Why they don't list it for GM, I don't know.
HTH
i pulled it up online though on summit, and its another $200
so all in all im looking at 400, which isnt bad i suppose, is there another better deal somewhere else?? any mods? or direct fit?
and lastly, what do you mean by "if you slide it, it will get sticky and chatter"
just wondering what that meant, i know it might sound dum but i dont know.
thanks guys.
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 5,703
Likes: 132
From: Orange, CA
Car: '90 Trans Am-12.45@110.71
Engine: 355 w/AFR 195's Elem. 400/430 HP/TQ
Transmission: Tremec T-56
Axle/Gears: 12 Bolt 3.73
Re: Dual friction vs "regular" clutch?
so all in all im looking at 400, which isnt bad i suppose, is there another better deal somewhere else?? any mods? or direct fit?
and lastly, what do you mean by "if you slide it, it will get sticky and chatter"
just wondering what that meant, i know it might sound dum but i dont know.
thanks guys.
and lastly, what do you mean by "if you slide it, it will get sticky and chatter"
just wondering what that meant, i know it might sound dum but i dont know.
thanks guys.
The best way to use a clutch is, get it all the way out as soon as possible.
If you slide or slip it, the friction will get it hot, then it gets sticky and chatters.
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 641
Likes: 1
Car: 91 RS
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.45
Re: Dual friction vs "regular" clutch?
thanks again don ill look into this clutch and plate set up im about to pull the engine and replace the clutch
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 2,498
Likes: 20
From: PNW
Car: 91 Black Formula KR
Engine: 305 TPI R69/G92
Transmission: Astro A5-Pro 5.0-McCleod
Axle/Gears: US Gear 3.42 Eaton True Trac
Re: Dual friction vs "regular" clutch?
Bump.... getting ready to buy.... still a good combo on the McLeod?
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 5,906
Likes: 240
From: Chicagoland Suburbs
Car: 1989 Trans Am GTA
Engine: LT1, AFR 195cc, 231/239 LE cam.
Transmission: M28 T56
Axle/Gears: 3.23 10bolt waiting to explode.
Re: Dual friction vs "regular" clutch?
I have a CF DF clutch in my T56 swap, I can't even tell its not stock.
Supreme Member
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,777
Likes: 27
From: Sanctuary state
Car: 67 ******mobile
Engine: 385 Solid roller
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: 4.11
Re: Dual friction vs "regular" clutch?
If you get grease on it sure any clutch can or overheat them. Maybe others have experienced problems I havent??
The puck type clutches can sometimes require more slipping and get a little chattery. They grab quick and shock the driveline more
On weights if your engine is off balance that can cause weight issues with teh CF otherwise they work just fine
I understand the McCleod RSX is a sweet setup but a waste for a mild motor
On powershifting its way overrated.
Unless youre after the last 1/2 10th or 10th dont bother not worth the risk of broken parts.
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 2,498
Likes: 20
From: PNW
Car: 91 Black Formula KR
Engine: 305 TPI R69/G92
Transmission: Astro A5-Pro 5.0-McCleod
Axle/Gears: US Gear 3.42 Eaton True Trac
Re: Dual friction vs "regular" clutch?
I emailed McLeod... here is an update on the part #'s....
"Yes the 10.95” pressure plate in the part number 360710 will work on the 10.5” pattern your flywheel has. The 260871 has been discontinued and is currently replaced by part number 260571"
The new part number for the disc is a dual friction clutch disc.
Rafael
"Yes the 10.95” pressure plate in the part number 360710 will work on the 10.5” pattern your flywheel has. The 260871 has been discontinued and is currently replaced by part number 260571"
The new part number for the disc is a dual friction clutch disc.
Rafael
Supreme Member
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,777
Likes: 27
From: Sanctuary state
Car: 67 ******mobile
Engine: 385 Solid roller
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: 4.11
Re: Dual friction vs "regular" clutch?
You can always pick up a Sachs clutch kit from Oreillys and use a better disc on it. Clutch co.s will tell you no but long as they are the same dia you can. Another option
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post










