I have an '84 Z-28. I have been doing some major modifications to the car and have worked my way up to the driveshaft loop problem. On any other car, it would be a simple deal but does anyone out there know what you have to do to install a driveshaft loop on this car? With the torque arm and the exhaust running right next to the driveshaft I can't figure how to go about it. I know there has to be a way. Also, where I might pick one up at. Would appreciate some help--Nort

[This message has been edited by NORT (edited January 14, 2001).]

 

Look in Jegs they sell one that bolts in. I have it on my car and it works great.

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84 Camaro ZZ4 with HOT cam. 1.88 60' (12.98 @ 105MPH E.T.)
Other Mods: You name it and I have probably changed it.

2001 Dodge Ram Quad Cab 5.9L 4*2

ASE Certified Auto Tech
LIVE AND DIE BY THE ALMIGHTY BOWTIE!

 

I have seen the ones in Jegs and in Summit but what is the deal--does it go around the torque arm as well? How far back did you have to put it? My exhaust system, which is kind of wild, is pretty much in the way too, but I guess that can be moved, just don't know about the loop. Would appreciate more info. Thanks--NORT

 

You must buy a third gen specific loop. It will have the proper bends to go around the torque arm. I think mine is a Lakewood unit. None of the pics on my page actually show what the loop looks like under the car.

I do have an old interior pic so you can see where it bolts to the floor.
http://www.hardtail.com/evo/raceinterior.jpg

You can see the 4 bolts on the floor beside the console. There's 4 more on the drivers side. You'll have to remove the seats and carpet to mount it properly. Steve Spohn's torque arms now come with built in loops. They attach to the tranny crossmember and don't requires this kind of installation. Mine was in way befor he came up with this setup.

You can also see in the pic a patch on the floor at the front. That was where I cut a hole to install a Fairbanks super servo in the 700R4 before I switched to a TH350. The multimeter is plugged into an O2 sensor.

The loop must be within 6" of the front u-joint. The only problem I had in mounting it was making sure I had enough room to pull the driveshaft out without removing the loop. I can now pull the driveshaft and tranny without removing the loop.

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Follow my racing progress on Stephen's racing page
and check out the race car

87 IROC-Z Pro ET Bracket Race Car
383 stroker (carbed) with double hump cast iron heads and pump gas
454 Big Block almost ready for the 2001 racing season

Best results before the 383 blew up
Best ET on a time slip: 11.857 altitude corrected to 11.163
Best MPH on a time slip: 117.87 altitude corrected to 126.10
Altitude corrected rear wheel HP based on power to weight ratio: 476.5
Best 60 foot: 1.662

Racing at 3500 feet elevation but most race days it's over 5000 feet density altitude!
Member of the Calgary Drag Racing Association

87 IROC bracket car, 91 454SS daily driver, 95 Homebuilt Harley

 

I have the 82-92 f-body driveshaft loop from Jegs. I had to modify it slightly for my Alston subframe connectors. Here are my pics:
http://24.1.139.249/images/101400/DCP_0018.JPG http://24.1.139.249/images/101400/DCP_0020.JPG



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West Coast GM Shootout 2001!
1991 Camaro Z28
5.7L 5-Speed (originally 305)
13.25 @ 107.18 MPH
Southern California
Member: SoCal 3rd Gen F-Bodies
Webmaster: SoCal F-Bodies
-=ICON Motorsports=-

 

Call me nuts, but why is the loop up front, and not at the rear.
I broke the rear U Joints in my Z-28, and it just started throwing the rear up. wham wham wham wham. Thinkfuly I was on a dirt road !!!

Ron

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'82 Trans Am
'81 Camaro Z-28
'94 Vette LT1 Coupe

 

When your driveshaft dropped at the back, it was just being dragged. Imagine it dropping at the front end and going into a hole or recessed lip in the ground. Polevaulting 101.

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1989 IROC-Z 5.7L