Ok, I got four books from the library on how to rebuild a 700-R4. In three of the exploded pictures, it shows a "waved" plate inside the Forward Clutch assembly, between the Forward Clutch Apply plate and the First Forward Clutch Composite Clutch. I recognized the old "waved plate" by seeing the uneven black marks from the clutch, and one of the small tabs along the outside has a small notch in it. In my rebuild kit I have a new wave plate, with the same small notch in one of the tabs and I can visually see small rises in the plate itself, BUT... in the book I have, it says the waved plate should be .079" thick. The used one I took out of my tranny measures .078" while my new one measures .055". Did I get the wrong waved plate? Do I have extra thick clutches that will compensate for the difference. Thanx for the help, ohh and one more thing....

All the diagrams show the waved plate as not having a round center, but more of a flower shaped inside... whats up with that?

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Owner of a 1989 IROC Camaro, a.k.a. "The Babe Magnet". Painted a cheap metallic blue that chips off all too easily and covers over the IROC decals on the doors, also has non-leaking T-tops, ps, pw, power rear hatch, working A/C. Mods: SLP intake runners, gutted MAF sensor, adjustable fuel pressure regulator, modified air spoil, 3.2? posi rear end.
Broken stuff: rear spoiler brake light, driver side lock, power antenna, tilt steering, rear end bushings, cracked passanger side ground effect, washer fluid tab, leaking exhaust and a rotted through muffler that sparks when the car bottoms out while driving like any 17 year old does.

 

they give you a thinner plate so that you can pack more clutches inside the drum. i work at tranny shop and know that, but i dont rebuild them yet so i cant tell you how thick the clucthes should be. sorry

 

OK, let me help you out before you get into trouble.

Your waved plate goes between the thick apply plate, and the first STEEL, not a clutch.

Your information is correct, your waved plate SHOULD measure .079", so my guess would be you are using aftermarket parts.

ProchargedROC, I don't know what you are reffering to. For every extra clutch, you need an extra steel, and there is no to clutch and steel that will fit in the ".023" deficit being mentioned. Unless ALL of the new clutches and steels are thinner, but the foward clutches have never really been a problem, so I don't see the point.

You can use the thinner waved plate, but you will need to measure total clutch pack clearance when installed. You will need to install the overrun clutches and then stack the fowards on top. Then measure between the top backing plate and the snap-ring with a feeler gauge. You should be between .030-.063. Providing you were at the low end of the range, your .023 deficit shouldn't matter. If you are out of spec, there are five different selective backing plates available. If you measure it, and its out of spec, let me know, and I will help you get the right backing plate. Same for all of your other clutches.

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'87 Trans Am
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-->14.97 @ 94.9 MPH<--

'97 Bonneville SSE

 

Are you sure about the clutch NOT being ontop of the wave plate... all of the books I have so it sitting on top of it, and when I took it out, it has several black spots on it, and the GM shop manual I have says you will be able to spot this plate by the darkened spaced out spots on the plate... and.. about the different sized plates, I found that two old steels added up to be just the size I need...

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Owner of a 1989 IROC Camaro, a.k.a. "The Babe Magnet". Painted a cheap metallic blue that chips off all too easily and covers over the IROC decals on the doors, also has non-leaking T-tops, ps, pw, power rear hatch, working A/C. Mods: SLP intake runners, gutted MAF sensor, adjustable fuel pressure regulator, modified air spoil, 3.2? posi rear end.
Broken stuff: rear spoiler brake light, driver side lock, power antenna, tilt steering, rear end bushings, cracked passanger side ground effect, washer fluid tab, leaking exhaust and a rotted through muffler that sparks when the car bottoms out while driving like any 17 year old does.

 

I don't want to sound like a **** , but I don't just work at a place that does these, I actually rebuild these.

I wouldn't be much holding power to put a friction disc up against a waved plate (even though it comresses when applied). After the waved plate comes your first steel. You will know its right when you stack them up, and then a friction disc is up top. Then you simply install the selective backing plate, and then the snap-ring. Check out the pic.


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------------------
If you live in Southeastern US, check us out!
South East Thirdgen


ASE Master Tech + L1
Savannah, GA

'87 Trans Am
S/D TPI retrofit including functional PassKey, 22# injectors,
JET AFPR, Ported Plenum,
TB Coolant Bypass, Custom Cold Air,
SSM SFC, KYB Shocks, Boxed LCAs, Wonder Bar,
8mm Accel wires,
Flowmaster Exhaust,
16" GTA rims,
Corvette Servo,
-->14.97 @ 94.9 MPH<--

'97 Bonneville SSE