Stall Convertor Question
Stall Convertor Question
I've got a Vigilante 2800 stall ordered and can't wait to get it in. Alot of people have said I will like it and should be good for going a few tenths quicker.
There seems to be alot of guys on LT-1 and LS-1 boards running higher stalls with great results but I don't hear about many guys on thirdgens running them.
I'd like to hear from anyone running one with the results you found.
Thanks
Bob
------------------
350 TPI, 700R4(rebuilt), K&N's, MSD 6AL, Headers, Flowmaster, 160* stat, airfoil, MAF screens cut out. 13.88 @ 101.18 mph
There seems to be alot of guys on LT-1 and LS-1 boards running higher stalls with great results but I don't hear about many guys on thirdgens running them.
I'd like to hear from anyone running one with the results you found.
Thanks
Bob
------------------
350 TPI, 700R4(rebuilt), K&N's, MSD 6AL, Headers, Flowmaster, 160* stat, airfoil, MAF screens cut out. 13.88 @ 101.18 mph
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Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 17,271
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From: 51°N 114°W, 3500'
Car: 87 IROC L98
Engine: 588 Alcohol BBC
Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"/31 spline spool/4.86
Stall speed depends on a lot of factors. Finding the perfect speed needs to have the engine dynoed and chosing a converter that stalls a few hundred rpm under the peak torque.
Many other factors will determine where a converter stalls at. The "2800" rpm rating is only an approximate rating for a specific torque of an engine. It may stall at 2800 in your car but only stall at 2500 in someone elses. The weight of the vehicle and rear end gearing will also determine where it will stall.
Don't expect to be able to hold the brakes and rev it up to 2800. I'd guess you'd be able to get it to 1800-2000 before the rear wheels would start to spin. The only way to find the true stall is to use a tranny brake. This will lock the tranny in first and reverse. Then the engine will be allowed to climb in rpm until the converter stalls with no power going out of the tranny.
When I was using the 383 and a 3800 stall, I could hold the brakes to 2600 and even then occasionally pushed through the starting lights, red lighting. At 2400 I could usually hold the car back with the brakes.
The idea behind a higher stall converter is that you want the converter to slip at the lower rpms, allowing the engine to climb up in rpm to it's higher torque range. Once the engine reaches above the converter stall, it's in it's best power range and provides better ET since you're not wasting time building rpm to that range.
When the converter is slipping at the lower rpms it builds lots of heat. Install an aftermarket tranny cooler!
One problem I can see. Your sig doesn't mention a cam grind. The 2800 stall will definately be noticable however the TPI runs out of steam around 5500 rpm. That gives you a 2700 rpm power range. A cam choice other than stock will give a big improvement.
------------------
Follow my racing progress on Stephen's racing page
and check out the race car
87 IROC-Z Pro ET Bracket Race Car
383 stroker (carbed) with double hump cast iron heads and pump gas
461 Big Block installed and ready for the 2001 racing season
Best results before the 383 blew up
Best ET on a time slip: 11.857 altitude corrected to 11.163
Best MPH on a time slip: 117.87 altitude corrected to 126.10
Altitude corrected rear wheel HP based on power to weight ratio: 476.5
Best 60 foot: 1.662
Racing at 3500 feet elevation but most race days it's over 5000 feet density altitude!
Member of the Calgary Drag Racing Association
87 IROC bracket car, 91 454SS daily driver, 95 Homebuilt Harley
Many other factors will determine where a converter stalls at. The "2800" rpm rating is only an approximate rating for a specific torque of an engine. It may stall at 2800 in your car but only stall at 2500 in someone elses. The weight of the vehicle and rear end gearing will also determine where it will stall.
Don't expect to be able to hold the brakes and rev it up to 2800. I'd guess you'd be able to get it to 1800-2000 before the rear wheels would start to spin. The only way to find the true stall is to use a tranny brake. This will lock the tranny in first and reverse. Then the engine will be allowed to climb in rpm until the converter stalls with no power going out of the tranny.
When I was using the 383 and a 3800 stall, I could hold the brakes to 2600 and even then occasionally pushed through the starting lights, red lighting. At 2400 I could usually hold the car back with the brakes.
The idea behind a higher stall converter is that you want the converter to slip at the lower rpms, allowing the engine to climb up in rpm to it's higher torque range. Once the engine reaches above the converter stall, it's in it's best power range and provides better ET since you're not wasting time building rpm to that range.
When the converter is slipping at the lower rpms it builds lots of heat. Install an aftermarket tranny cooler!
One problem I can see. Your sig doesn't mention a cam grind. The 2800 stall will definately be noticable however the TPI runs out of steam around 5500 rpm. That gives you a 2700 rpm power range. A cam choice other than stock will give a big improvement.
------------------
Follow my racing progress on Stephen's racing page
and check out the race car
87 IROC-Z Pro ET Bracket Race Car
383 stroker (carbed) with double hump cast iron heads and pump gas
461 Big Block installed and ready for the 2001 racing season
Best results before the 383 blew up
Best ET on a time slip: 11.857 altitude corrected to 11.163
Best MPH on a time slip: 117.87 altitude corrected to 126.10
Altitude corrected rear wheel HP based on power to weight ratio: 476.5
Best 60 foot: 1.662
Racing at 3500 feet elevation but most race days it's over 5000 feet density altitude!
Member of the Calgary Drag Racing Association
87 IROC bracket car, 91 454SS daily driver, 95 Homebuilt Harley
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