I have a 84z28 that had drums. I bought a 9bolt froma 89GTA. I got the booster,mastercyinder,p.v.,and ebrakecables,I bought new rotors&pads. When I put it all together and hit the brakes it doesn't stop th rotors it only slows them down. Could the p.v. be bad?or steal have air in the lines. I bleed the master cylinder and all calipers to were I didn't get any more air. Is there a differencs in lines? thats the only thing I didn't change.
After trying the brakes many times I looked in the mastercylinder and the back bowl for the front brakes has a white color not clear like there is steal air the bore. But the back brakes should steal stop right. what should I do, and what did I miss. Any help would be great.

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NMZ28

 

Could be that their not adjusted properly...easy to overlook....

 

I think you still have air in the lines
or cylinders. I had the same problem with my
'83 Z28 W/ 4 discs. I gravity bled all 4 at
the same time with the master cyl. kept full
and the cover off. After you put the bleeders
back in, have someone LIGHTLY push on the
brake pedal (to keep the fluid from squirting out of the cylinder). If you see air bubbles coming from the bottom of the master cylinder,have your assistant let up on the pedal slightly and repeat the process untill no more bubbles float to the top. Put
the cover back on and push the pedal. At this point the pedal should be hard.

 

I agree with Barry85Iroc. If the e-brake is not set correctly then the brakes will not work right. I set mine with the e-brake handle pulled up four cilcks and the caliper tight on the rotor. hope this helps

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82 cross-fire, 410 gears
700r4

 

I also agree with the e-brake. If the pads are just barely touching the rotor, then the cailper piston is probably having to travel to far. You can tighten up on the e-brake cable, and the brakes should start working, and the "pedal height" will also rise up to normal (if it was low).

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'97 Bonneville SSE

 

There is a way to adjust those older style rear disk brakes.

Loosen up the e-brake cable so the cable has slack in it, also noting that the e-brake
actuation arm is on it's stop (on the caliper). On the "outer" side of the caliper there is a hole that you can inspect the inner brake pads through. You can also see the piston. There is a black rubber dust boot visible. If you pull back the boot *slightly* (towards the piston) there is a groove in the piston (to hold the boot in place) You are going to use that groove in just a second. Get a pair of vise grips and clamp them on the e-brake actuation arm, in order to "make it longer" and get leverage on it. This will allow you to move the arm through its range of motion (forward and backward). Pull back the dust boot mentioned earlier and get a flatbladed screwdriver, put the tip of the flat bladed screwdriver in the groove, pry the piston towards the brake pad and rotor. At the same time you are prying on the piston (trying to force it towards the rotor) grab the vice grips with your other hand and move it quickly/briskly back and forth with some force(at least ten times). You will feel it take up the slack and become tighter as it breaks the gum/rust in the jack screw free.

After you have done this to both calipers, adjust the e-brake cable so that the e-brake handle gets tight at about half of its travel.

To keep the rear brakes working, always use the e-brake. It's a case of "use it or lose it".

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1985 Yellow IROC-Z 5.0 HO, T-5 3.73 Posi, 4 wheel disks
PFCM pads, GTA wheels, Koni yellows, B&M Ripper, Dynomax

[This message has been edited by OLDYELLR (edited March 03, 2001).]

[This message has been edited by OLDYELLR (edited March 03, 2001).]