Differential Pinion Bearing
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Differential Pinion Bearing
My rear end is whiney to say the least, been reading a bit on common issues with that particular noise, but i havent seen a specific "how to" on fixing that issue...
Is there a how too with photo on replacing the pinion bearing? Ive read about 15 different posts but nothing useful enough to get me through it, im taking a look at my haynes manual but not getting anything either...
Also, im figuring the noise im about to describe is called "backlash" but i want a second oppinion..... I reverse down the driveway (i have an automatic) and come to a complete stop, put car in drive, "Clunk", drive away.
Sounds like its coming from rear end area when i let my wife drive it down the street but im a little unsure. standing outside the car, it wasnt a "clunk", but more of a "clink" (if that makes sense?)
Is there a how too with photo on replacing the pinion bearing? Ive read about 15 different posts but nothing useful enough to get me through it, im taking a look at my haynes manual but not getting anything either...
Also, im figuring the noise im about to describe is called "backlash" but i want a second oppinion..... I reverse down the driveway (i have an automatic) and come to a complete stop, put car in drive, "Clunk", drive away.
Sounds like its coming from rear end area when i let my wife drive it down the street but im a little unsure. standing outside the car, it wasnt a "clunk", but more of a "clink" (if that makes sense?)
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 5,364
Likes: 51
From: Enschede, Netherlands
Car: 82 TA 87 IZ L98 88 IZ LB9 88 IZ L98
Engine: 5.7TBI 5,7TPI 5.0TPI, 5,7TPI
Transmission: T5, 700R4, T5, 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.08, 3.27, 3.45, 3.27
Re: Differential Pinion Bearing
The clunk is not necessarily backlash, it can also be play on the slip yoke splines, check that first.
As for the whining, do you have a posi or open rear?
installing new pinion bearings isn't ahrd, the trick is in setting up the gears properly. For this you need several tools, one of which is a depth gauge. A micrometer is also handy for measuring shim thickness. Oh, and a dial torque meter for measuring rotational drag is also needed.
You could try to cut corner,s. Since you will be reusing the nut and pinion, mark the nut and the pinion with a punch so that you know how the 2 were oriented, pull the whole shebang apart and reuse the shims, install a new crush sleeve and torque the whole deal to 100 lbs. ft. and then check the markings you previously made and align those.
If it really is the bearings however, usually because of brinelling (pitted races) you will need to find why this is happening, usually it's too much bearing preload.
As for the whining, do you have a posi or open rear?
installing new pinion bearings isn't ahrd, the trick is in setting up the gears properly. For this you need several tools, one of which is a depth gauge. A micrometer is also handy for measuring shim thickness. Oh, and a dial torque meter for measuring rotational drag is also needed.
You could try to cut corner,s. Since you will be reusing the nut and pinion, mark the nut and the pinion with a punch so that you know how the 2 were oriented, pull the whole shebang apart and reuse the shims, install a new crush sleeve and torque the whole deal to 100 lbs. ft. and then check the markings you previously made and align those.
If it really is the bearings however, usually because of brinelling (pitted races) you will need to find why this is happening, usually it's too much bearing preload.
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Joined: Dec 2008
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Re: Differential Pinion Bearing
The clunk is not necessarily backlash, it can also be play on the slip yoke splines, check that first.
As for the whining, do you have a posi or open rear?
i bought the car a few weeks ago, i really have no idea. 5.7/350 with auto in a 1991 Z? your guess is as good as mine, and i havent gotten under there to look yet
installing new pinion bearings isn't ahrd, the trick is in setting up the gears properly. For this you need several tools, one of which is a depth gauge. A micrometer is also handy for measuring shim thickness. Oh, and a dial torque meter for measuring rotational drag is also needed.
You could try to cut corner,s. Since you will be reusing the nut and pinion, mark the nut and the pinion with a punch so that you know how the 2 were oriented, pull the whole shebang apart and reuse the shims, install a new crush sleeve and torque the whole deal to 100 lbs. ft. and then check the markings you previously made and align those.
If it really is the bearings however, usually because of brinelling (pitted races) you will need to find why this is happening, usually it's too much bearing preload.
As for the whining, do you have a posi or open rear?
i bought the car a few weeks ago, i really have no idea. 5.7/350 with auto in a 1991 Z? your guess is as good as mine, and i havent gotten under there to look yet
installing new pinion bearings isn't ahrd, the trick is in setting up the gears properly. For this you need several tools, one of which is a depth gauge. A micrometer is also handy for measuring shim thickness. Oh, and a dial torque meter for measuring rotational drag is also needed.
You could try to cut corner,s. Since you will be reusing the nut and pinion, mark the nut and the pinion with a punch so that you know how the 2 were oriented, pull the whole shebang apart and reuse the shims, install a new crush sleeve and torque the whole deal to 100 lbs. ft. and then check the markings you previously made and align those.
If it really is the bearings however, usually because of brinelling (pitted races) you will need to find why this is happening, usually it's too much bearing preload.
i dont cut corners, so it looks like im off to a mechanic to get it checked out, i know alot of camaros whine, my first didnt and now that i have to hear it, ugh its really annoying. thanks for reply
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 5,364
Likes: 51
From: Enschede, Netherlands
Car: 82 TA 87 IZ L98 88 IZ LB9 88 IZ L98
Engine: 5.7TBI 5,7TPI 5.0TPI, 5,7TPI
Transmission: T5, 700R4, T5, 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.08, 3.27, 3.45, 3.27
Re: Differential Pinion Bearing
Make sure you get it to a reputable shop, a lot of mechanics don't like rear end work and cut corners too. It's a lot of meticulous work to get it right.
5.7, you probably have a 9 bolt posi in there.
5.7, you probably have a 9 bolt posi in there.
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Re: Differential Pinion Bearing
Is the pinion seal leaking? That is usually a sign that a pinion bearing is bad.
To change the pinion bearings you must remove the axles and differential first. Then remove the pinion nut. The yoke is sometimes hard to get off, but tapping it with a large hammer on one side and then the other will usually get it off. The pinion gear is the same way, sometimes it comes out easy and sometimes you need the large hammer. Just be sure that you don't flair the end when you hit it or you will never get a nut back on it. When you have the pinion out you need to pull the seal and then knock out the bearing races in the housing. Then press off the old inner bearing on the pinion. Be sure that you save the shim behind the bearing because you must use it again. Clean everything and press on a new Timken bearing with the shim behind it. DO NOT use any bearings that are made in China or you will probably be doing this again in a few months. Drive the new bearing races into the housing. Oil the bearings and put the new outer bearing in place. Smear a little RTV sealer around the area where the seal goes in and tap the seal in. Put the pinion back in with a NEW crush spacer. Smear some RTV into the splines of the yoke and put it back on. Use some Loktite on the threads and install a NEW pinion nut. Tighten the pinion nut untill the bearing preload is about 15 to 19 inch pounds. Tightening the pinion nut will require around 300 foot pounds of torque to crush the new spacer, so have some heavy duty tools on hand to hold the yoke and tighten the nut. Put the rest of the rear end back together and torque the bearing cap bolts to 60 foot pounds. Be sure that you get the shims and bearing caps back on the side that they came out of.
To change the pinion bearings you must remove the axles and differential first. Then remove the pinion nut. The yoke is sometimes hard to get off, but tapping it with a large hammer on one side and then the other will usually get it off. The pinion gear is the same way, sometimes it comes out easy and sometimes you need the large hammer. Just be sure that you don't flair the end when you hit it or you will never get a nut back on it. When you have the pinion out you need to pull the seal and then knock out the bearing races in the housing. Then press off the old inner bearing on the pinion. Be sure that you save the shim behind the bearing because you must use it again. Clean everything and press on a new Timken bearing with the shim behind it. DO NOT use any bearings that are made in China or you will probably be doing this again in a few months. Drive the new bearing races into the housing. Oil the bearings and put the new outer bearing in place. Smear a little RTV sealer around the area where the seal goes in and tap the seal in. Put the pinion back in with a NEW crush spacer. Smear some RTV into the splines of the yoke and put it back on. Use some Loktite on the threads and install a NEW pinion nut. Tighten the pinion nut untill the bearing preload is about 15 to 19 inch pounds. Tightening the pinion nut will require around 300 foot pounds of torque to crush the new spacer, so have some heavy duty tools on hand to hold the yoke and tighten the nut. Put the rest of the rear end back together and torque the bearing cap bolts to 60 foot pounds. Be sure that you get the shims and bearing caps back on the side that they came out of.
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