Trans output shaft slop
Trans output shaft slop
The output shaft coming out of the rear end of my trans on my '91 formula 350 has some slop it in (.06") When I rotate the driveshaft by hand with the trans in Park, it makes a clunking noise in the rear extension cone. Is there a bushing or bearing in there that is worn out? Any help would be greatly appreaciated. Thanks.
Chris
Chris
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 43,187
Likes: 45
From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
There is a bushing in the tailshaft housing. It is fairly easy to replace: The housing has to be out, and it should be done with a press.
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82 Berlinetta, orig V-6 car, now w/86 LG4/TH700R4. 2.93 limited slip. Cat-back from '91 GTA, Accel HEI SuperCoil. AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Daily driver, work-in-progress (LG4 w/'87 LB9 block, ZZ3 cam and intake, World 305 heads, Hooker headers & y-pipe, 3" Catco cat & 3" cat-back).
57 Bel Air, my 1st car. 0.030 over 396, 9.7 CR forged TRWs, Weiand Action+, Edelbrock 1901 Q-Jet, GK 270 cam, Magnum rockers, Jacobs Omnipack, 1-3/4" Hedders & 3" Warlock header mufflers, TH400 w/TCI Sat Night Special conv & Trans-Scat shift kit, LT MegaShifter, 3.08 8.2" 10-bolt w/Powertrax, AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Best 15.1/95.5 @ 5800' Bandimere.
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82 Berlinetta, orig V-6 car, now w/86 LG4/TH700R4. 2.93 limited slip. Cat-back from '91 GTA, Accel HEI SuperCoil. AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Daily driver, work-in-progress (LG4 w/'87 LB9 block, ZZ3 cam and intake, World 305 heads, Hooker headers & y-pipe, 3" Catco cat & 3" cat-back).
57 Bel Air, my 1st car. 0.030 over 396, 9.7 CR forged TRWs, Weiand Action+, Edelbrock 1901 Q-Jet, GK 270 cam, Magnum rockers, Jacobs Omnipack, 1-3/4" Hedders & 3" Warlock header mufflers, TH400 w/TCI Sat Night Special conv & Trans-Scat shift kit, LT MegaShifter, 3.08 8.2" 10-bolt w/Powertrax, AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Best 15.1/95.5 @ 5800' Bandimere.
Supreme Member

Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 1,978
Likes: 0
From: PA
Car: 88 Firebird WS6
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.42
There's also a bushing where the output shaft leaves the case. Is the play more side to side or front to back.
Check your U-joints first though... Also alot of backlash in the rear gears may clunk in gear. Also the early 700r4's had no accumulator for neutral (or park) to drive/reverse so they tended to slam into gear. Also too high an idle can cause this...
Check your U-joints first though... Also alot of backlash in the rear gears may clunk in gear. Also the early 700r4's had no accumulator for neutral (or park) to drive/reverse so they tended to slam into gear. Also too high an idle can cause this...
The play is side to side. Whats the best way to check the u joints. Right now I just grab the output shaft and drivshaft and turn them in opposite directions and look for play...is that the right way? I will have to check the rear end lash also. I have noticed that the rear diff. gets hot after driving, I don't know if this is normal or not. Thanks for the help.
Supreme Member

Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 1,978
Likes: 0
From: PA
Car: 88 Firebird WS6
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.42
It's better to drop the driveshaft to check for play as you may be seeing some lash between the splines on the output shaft, ect...
Just try twisting the u-joints in every direction and if there's any play at all they're no good. Sometimes they make a clicking noise when you try to twist them by hand. They are retained by injected plastic, so you need to melt the plastic with a propane torch if you plan on replacing them yourself. The replacements are held in with the snaprings or tru-arcs.
Just try twisting the u-joints in every direction and if there's any play at all they're no good. Sometimes they make a clicking noise when you try to twist them by hand. They are retained by injected plastic, so you need to melt the plastic with a propane torch if you plan on replacing them yourself. The replacements are held in with the snaprings or tru-arcs.
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