I have an 86 iroc z (Lb9 motor) with the following mods
mild cam
Stock heads with some head work
heddman headers
Full 3 inch exhaust
electric exhaust cutout
Recently rebuilt trans about 3 yrs
and 2.73 gears
Estimated hp of 280

Do u think the following mods i have planned will make me be able to consistently chirp 2nd gear with a 700r4

B+M shift improver kit
B+m trans cooler
4.10 motive gears
Auburn pro diff
Do u guys think i should install a stall convertor why im at it?

 

if I get on it, I can chirp 2nd easy with my bone stock 305 (lb9) and a 700r4 thats on its last leg.. or do you mean just "normal" driving you want to chirp?
and you may want to do some searching, the B&M shift kit is rather rough and wears the trans quickly.

 

Mine will chirp 2nd once and awhile
I just wanna be able to roast first and get a nice loud chirp when shifting to 2nd whenever i want everytime.

 

A shift kit ,posi,and 3.42/3.73 gears should have you
chirping every 1-2 shift-with that mine will always
just roast both tires through 1st then give a nice
squeal of several seconds duration going into 2nd if
done at full throttle,moderate throttle application
will usually give a nice chirp. I dont think the stall
converter will be needed,but i would install a cooler.
Will depend on the tires some too as some squeal
better than others...

 

If you want a good chirp, do not get a stall converter. My car wont chirp the tires at all. It cooks all first and wont chirp. It would chirp them bone stock. Now looks at all my mods. Bigger stalls kinda lags the tranny.

 

chev what shift kit did you use?
Im probably gonna do the shift kit, trans cooler, and 4.10 gears
that should make this car be a beast from stop light to stop light

 

I wouldn't reccomend the b&m shift improver kit to my worst enemy because the first month I could chirp 2nd all day, then it became intermitant now for the most part it just has very firm shifts and the super occasional chirp. The whole thing kinda made me mad so one day I decided to swap in a T5.

 

i light my tires up on the 2nd shift just about every time i go above 3000rpms on a shift. i have a trans go shift kit, billet 35% larger than corvette servo, 50% larger than stock 4th gear servo, .500 boost valve and larger low reverse boost valve. the shifts are really firm and snap ur neck back lol i love it. this was with a mostly stock 350tpi wiht just exhaust and intake mods.

my trans was rebuilt about 30,000 ago and i have a deep trans pan and 24,000GVW trans cooler.

higher stall will allow higher flashing putting u higher in the engines power band. u will flash the converter and smoke the tires depending on the stall. it just wont chirp the tires if ur shifting below the converters stall speed. on a 2400 stall dont expect to chirp the tires when the trans is shifting at 2000 thats all.

 

To each their own I guess. To me, chirping gears just means you don't have the proper suspension and/or tires. I'd rather not loose traction between gears.

The B&M kit will chirp gear changes until it beats the planetaries/clutches out of the trans, thus costing you an expensive re-build. - The trans-go kit will give you progressively firmer shifts, the harder you are on the throttle, the harder it shifts. This is a great kit in combination with the vette servo.

When running the billet servos, I just run the Superior shift correction kit. The extra firmness of the billet servos combined with a performance "shift kit" gives you a firmness closer to the B&M kit, and is a bit harsh for my liking.

A good firm shift helps clutch pack life tremendously, however, one that rattles the dash under even lower throttle percentage/load is just abuse on the hard parts.

 

Chirping the tires, just means you have skinny tires/hard compound tires/poor suspension/etc., for the horsepower you are trying to put to the ground.

You want easy chirps? Run skinny rear tires or hard rubber tires.

The 4.10 gears alone, will help you a lot, unless your tranny is worn & sloppy.

What rear tires do you have? And your 280hp estimate.....Based on WHAT? You must be leaving out a lot of mods you've made, to hit 280hp.

My 180,000 mile, 1987 L98 (350, 215hp NEW) had no trouble roasting 2nd gear on 245s. With my 285s now (and better rubber) 2nd is a bit harder, but still gets 2nd occasionally.

 

I would NOT put 4.10s in that car with a 700R. First gear feels like your driving a dump truck in low gear. Also at 70mph you will be taching 3000rpm. Also I found after 70mph you will get a very fine viberation from driveshaft flex due over speeding it. I am rebuilding another rearend now with 3.73's. The T-5 swapped help alittle but not enough to leave the 4.10 in it.

 

the part throttle shifts arent too bad. the 1-2 is very firm but its not annoying. its just when i get above 3000 the shifts really get nice. i have nitto 555s 245/45/r17 and they are way to easy to light up. its a pretty good rubber compound. not to soft so it wears out fast but its not hard either. theres nothing i could do to my suspension its all aftermarket except the tq arm... which is is now car still had stock 9bolt with posi (worn) and 3.27 gears. i would never run anything higher than 3.73 for the street. im goin from my 3.27 9bolt to a 3.55 ford 8.8. i still want to get like 14mpg with my 383 HSR!

 

Well the estimate of 280 hp is at the crank not the wheels.
Im running 275 tires on the back
nexen 3000 tires
it will occasionaly bark 2nd but i want to be able to do it when ever i want
I rarely ride the car on the highway so i think the 4.10 will be alot of fun around town

 

After some research i think im gonna go with the modified transgo shift kit from pro built automatics, seems to be the most popular
One question at full throttle will it shift hard enough to break the tires on the 1-2 shift?

 

I was just looking on pro builts website and noticed that the kit says for 700r4 88-93.
will this kit work in my 86 700r4
does it say that cause it comes with an acumulator which my 86 doesnt have, so do u just not use the accumulator?

 

Just go with a t56 and with 4.10 you could probably even chirp in 3rd.

But seriously if this is a car that you drive on the streets why are you concerned about chirping tires??

If you're at 280 and at full throttle chirping tires is louder than your 3" exhaust then your car's got some major problems, or maybe a SILENT MODE switch. lol

Chirpin tires is RIC3R ****
V8s are meant to smoke wide tires and leave rubber on the roads. <- thats how you know your car is bad a$$, not by "chirpin" tires lol

 

Ive been toying with the idea of running a tci reverse manual valve body. Since this cars only my weekend fun car, and only gets driven hard around town. Has anyone used a manual valve body, and what were ur results

 

you would need a reverse shifter also.
rowing it all the time/why not switch to a manual?
for chirps you won't be able to do them all the time. different pavement types keep it from happening even if you try with a car that will do it at will. I have a car like that and wait till the middle of the intersection(smooth pavement) to chirp it. parking lots are great also. sometimes I get third chirp on the freeway which really gets attention since there are slicks on the car.(approx. 530hp.). in situations were the freeway is smooth enough I do it over and over just for fun popping it down to 2nd and chirping third. It does scare the unsuspecting person in intersections. LOL

 

If you have a 700r4 trans try this 700 R-4 Lockup Delay Modules $95 – Easy to install. Prevents converter lockup until 4th gear, eliminates unwanted converter locking and unlocking in 2nd and 3rd gear. Bang through your gears.
http://www.jetchip.com/JET_Transmissions.asp

 

^ not sure what the tc lock-up has to do with this thread?

Anyhow, a manual VB is hard on a the trans when used on the street. Manual vb's eliminate the tv cable and utilize full line pressure all the time; great for racing, hard on parts for just cruising around. Excessive pump wear, part throttle power loss(pulling the pump), along with easily being able to shorten clutch pack life if not up/down shifted correctly. - As previously stated, if you want a manual on the street, switch to a manual trans.

Your trans does have accumulators, it just won't have an aux valvebody with the extra accumulator.

 

What do u guys think about the 4.10 gears
Too much gear for a fun weekend car?
Would 3.90 be a better gear

 

My fullsize van with modified Vortec TPI 350, 700r4, 3.73ss with a true-trac, and P295/50/R17 tires will catch a 10ft patch of rubber going into 2nd gear @ WOT. I made some changes to the valve body and seperator plate while putting in a stage 2 Transgo shift kit. I drilled the feed holes for the firmest WOT shifting, switched to an elevated line pressure spring and a .500 TV boost valve. The Van transmission had the OEM High-po servo. I also restricted fluid flow to the accumulators and ran the largest springs available. Under light throttle it shifted smoothly yet firm, under WOT, hang on. With the stock 1,600 rpm converter and the hard shifts, the momentum of the engine turning near 6,000 rpm, slams back on the driveline HARD. Be warned its a U-joint killer if you drive it like you stole it, I broke the caps on TWO of them. I had to make the shifts brutal, because it was flaring on the WOT 1-2 and 2-3 before. 470+ flywheel torque, 3.08 gears, sticky tires, and 5,000+ lbs vechicle weight are the downfall of a 700r4. Despite the changes I made, it was too late for the clutches and 2-4 band. They were burned badly and started to slip. I broke the high mileage OEM roller/sprag clutch as well.

 

^ The entire scenario just made me laugh... not sure whether thats "red-neck if...." or "hot-rodder if..." either way, you might be.

 

got the reverse manual valvebody in mine. if you are running a stock converter the shifts will be extremely violent. i had a stock converter for a few days while mine was being built and it would chirp third. and was damn near impossible not to chirp second. i woulnt go full manual without an aftermarket converter. i can lay down about 15-20 feet of rubber on the 1-2 shift with 4000 stall.(provided its hooked up by then)

 

Just in case you didn't already know, a manual valvebody will shorten the life of the pump considerably. I'd reccomend monitoring line pressure so as to know when the pump starts laying down, that way it doesn't take other parts with it.