Actually, I am switching from a computer controlled q-jet to a non-computer controlled Holly. I was just informed that my torque converter will not lockup in my 700R4 once I disconnect the TPS from the carb.

What are my options? I would rather not have a manual switch...

------------------
1984 z28 w/ a 357 cu in. monster engine which is looking like the posterchild for Edelbrock... all the suspension stuff... 9-bolt posi disk is in... K&N filter... 93 octane...

-=ICON Motorsports=-

 

There are a number of companies making kits which include a vacuum switch to control the TCC.

------------------
1984 Silver Z28, 383 cid 4 bolt, ARP Fasteners, 2 1/2" Cowl Induction Hood, 600 cfm Performer Carburetor, Torker II Intake, Performer RPM Heads, XE268H Cam, Magnum Roller Tip Rockers, MSD6AL Ignition, Blaster2 Coil, Recurved HEI Distributor, 700R4, TransGo SK, 2.73:1 Limited Slip Dana 44, Terminator Headers, Custom 3" TIG Welded Stainless Exhaust, Flo-Pro Twister Muffler, 4 Wheel Disc Brakes, Oil Cooler

 

Yes, I read your posts on previous topics such as this...

I see a kit for $65 in Jegs... Will this solve any problems? How close to stock (the way it locks up now with the computer) is it? I'd really like to not have to remember to flip a switch every time I get onto the highway...

 

I had that same kit. It will work with no hassle at all if your trans has a two wire soleniod. The newer ones all do. my 84 did not it had the one wire soleniod. Wont woek with the wireing. You need a two wire soleniod with that kit. The kit does not supply one. Jegs gave me the run around. You can order this part from gm. It is about 50- dollars.. I hope someone can help out on this one. It has been awhile since I did it. Bit you should be fine with that kit, but you wont be sure until you get your trans apart..Kevin

 

If you want to keep it as close to the stock behavior as possible, all you need from the kit is the vacuum switch. Some kits want you to drop the pan and put a new harness and switch in so that lock-up will only occur in 4th. On my car I just wired the switch in to let it lock up in any gear above 1st.

Now that I think about it, my car being a Canadian LG4 was originally not computer controlled, and had a factory vacuum switch. You might even be able to save a few bucks by finding a wrecker in Canada and getting a used vacuum TCC switch from them.

------------------
1984 Silver Z28, 383 cid 4 bolt, ARP Fasteners, 2 1/2" Cowl Induction Hood, 600 cfm Performer Carburetor, Torker II Intake, Performer RPM Heads, XE268H Cam, Magnum Roller Tip Rockers, MSD6AL Ignition, Blaster2 Coil, Recurved HEI Distributor, 700R4, TransGo SK, 2.73:1 Limited Slip Dana 44, Terminator Headers, Custom 3" TIG Welded Stainless Exhaust, Flo-Pro Twister Muffler, 4 Wheel Disc Brakes, Oil Cooler

 

Actually, this is a 89 700R4 that was rebuilt by Fairbanks to handle the power... I really don't want to pull too much of it apart! Something to "plug in" would be good...

I have what looks like a vacuum tube/hose that pluged into the back of the carb. I assume this was for the downshifting or something based on vacuum... Make any sense?

 

It might have been for a vacuum modulated transmission. The vacuum switch for the TCC can just be connected to any full vacuum port on the carb. As for wiring it in, you just use the original 4 pin connector, and there's a number of places you can do it. I can't tell you exactly where the best place is though. When I did my car I was converting it from manual, which seems backwards to what everyone else is trying to do.

------------------
1984 Silver Z28, 383 cid 4 bolt, ARP Fasteners, 2 1/2" Cowl Induction Hood, 600 cfm Performer Carburetor, Torker II Intake, Performer RPM Heads, XE268H Cam, Magnum Roller Tip Rockers, MSD6AL Ignition, Blaster2 Coil, Recurved HEI Distributor, 700R4, TransGo SK, 2.73:1 Limited Slip Dana 44, Terminator Headers, Custom 3" TIG Welded Stainless Exhaust, Flo-Pro Twister Muffler, 4 Wheel Disc Brakes, Oil Cooler

 

I will have to plug this back in with the new carb, right? Full time vacuum or what?

Is that the same 4-pin connector that plugged into the HEI? I had a 3-pin that went to the TPS and a 2-pin that went to the MCS. The only 4-pin that I kow of was the connector to the HEI that I needed to disconnect when I would set the timing...

 

Maybe you'll find this helpful for making your own switch:
http://www.thegrid.net/thedrivetrainpage/700inst.htm


------------------
-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
---Think your car could be pic of the week? Visit http://www.f-body.net for details!

 

Sorry I thought you were talking about the new carb. I don't know which hose you're referring to. Check your vacuum diagram and see if you can figure out what it's for.

I was referring to the 4-pin connector on the transmission.

------------------
1984 Silver Z28, 383 cid 4 bolt, ARP Fasteners, 2 1/2" Cowl Induction Hood, 600 cfm Performer Carburetor, Torker II Intake, Performer RPM Heads, XE268H Cam, Magnum Roller Tip Rockers, MSD6AL Ignition, Blaster2 Coil, Recurved HEI Distributor, 700R4, TransGo SK, 2.73:1 Limited Slip Dana 44, Terminator Headers, Custom 3" TIG Welded Stainless Exhaust, Flo-Pro Twister Muffler, 4 Wheel Disc Brakes, Oil Cooler

 

As for the web page... good one!

As for the vacuum hose in question... it pluged into the rear base of the q-jet right next to where the brake vacuum hose screwed in. I assume it goes to the tranny, but don't know for sure. It is the only one that I can't see where it goes for sure.

As for the 4-pin connector... Oh, I'll have to look for that too. Clues as to where on the tranny it is?

 

The connector is on the driver's side, just behind the bellhousing a little.

Probably the easiest way to do what you want is to install a vacuum switch in the engine compartment somewhere convenient and run a full vacuum line to it from the carb. Ground one side of the switch. Then you have 2 choices: you can run a wire from the other side of the switch through the firewall and splice it into the TCC solenoid wire where it goes into the ALDL connector under the dash, or if you don't want to go through the firewall you can instead run the wire from the other switch terminal and splice into the wire leading into the 4 pin conncetor into the transmission.

I don't remember the pinouts of the connectors, but I can look them up if you want.

------------------
1984 Silver Z28, 383 cid 4 bolt, ARP Fasteners, 2 1/2" Cowl Induction Hood, 600 cfm Performer Carburetor, Torker II Intake, Performer RPM Heads, XE268H Cam, Magnum Roller Tip Rockers, MSD6AL Ignition, Blaster2 Coil, Recurved HEI Distributor, 700R4, TransGo SK, 2.73:1 Limited Slip Dana 44, Terminator Headers, Custom 3" TIG Welded Stainless Exhaust, Flo-Pro Twister Muffler, 4 Wheel Disc Brakes, Oil Cooler

 

I don't have a problem running a wire through the firewall. In fact, I am running a few through right now to the gauges I just installed. One is for tranny temp. I also have to pull some panels off to get to the light rheostat (I think that is what it is) so I can hook the gauges up to that so their lights come on when I turn on the headlights.

That switch can be bought from GM right? I think I saw prices for $50 or something like that...

I'm adding my e-mail if that makes things easier: ray.carpenter@nabri.novartis.com

 

Biochem, if you do some probing on your headlight switch, you can tap into a brown wire, which runs off the gauge lights. You can also tap off the light for the shifter indicator.


------------------
-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
---Think your car could be pic of the week? Visit http://www.f-body.net for details!

 

i hit the wrong button whoops

[This message has been edited by STL1994 (edited July 17, 2001).]