Whats wrong with this trans.
Its a manual valve body TH-350
Put it in the car, and when i first started the car and was going through the gears on jackstands, i was hearing a kinda pumping noise that would have a slightly different sound for each fwd or rev gear....but it only did it for a few minutes.
Then, while driving at apx 40 mph for example, if you hit the gas there is a VERY LOUD whining or squealing type noise coming from the front of the trans or convertor.
Ive replaced the filter and fluid again and nothing has changed.
It now seems like i hear a very faint vacuum sound coming from the trans too.
There are no vacuum lines hooked up to the trans and no TV cable.....cause there aint supposed to be, so I dont want to hear I need to hook it up and it will fix it.
Any good input would be helpful.
thanx

 

For one thing, when you run a full manual W/no vacuum modulator you are asking for cooling a lube problems.

If you must have a manual ( I would only use one on the strip) then get a TransGo 350-3 Reprogramming Kit. It will still be full manual but you still run a modulator adn shift firmness will increase with throttle.

 

thats new to me, the guy was running it is his car goin 9`s and driving it on the street.....he never had a vacuum line hooked to it and told me not to hook 1 up.....and i dont recall seeing anywhere to hook 1 up, though i never checked either.
i dont even remember my 700r4 having one hooked upto it

 

The 700 doesn't use one that is why you didn't find it.

 

That noise can be the converter if you stomp on it while in a higher gear. It won't downshift and slips the converter like crazy--putting alot of heat into the tranny. Unless you strictly drive on the strip, I would get rid of the fully manual valvebody.

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350 with stealth intake, holley carb, 470 lift cam. 700r4 with .5 boost valve, vette servo, tci lock-up kit, B&M megashifter. Richmond 3.73 gears, powertrax locker, timkin bearings, synthetic lube. Custom 3 inch single into 2 2.5 pipes. 1 1/2 drop springs, 1 5/16 solid front sway bar, 1 inch rear bar, custom subframe connectors, custom LCA relocation brackets. Kobel ground FX, current red metallic paint. Lots of other stuff...
82camaro

 

Id rather have a manual valve body.....i hate trying to race when the trans doesnt shift when i want it to.
Besides, if Im keeping a 350 trans in it, it wont be on the street much anyway.
I really want my 700R4 back, but I keep blowing them apart.....nobody will ever build 1 that can last....not for quite sometime anyway Im sure....especially behind the new motor

 

The other manual VB's DON'T run a modulator, that is why you don't see it. I do NOT recommend this setup. As for a 700 not holding up, are you over 600 HP?

 

450hp at the rear tires and 669 torque at the rear tires.....it makes more torque, but i couldnt start the dyno untill 3600...on motor it made 410 torque at the read tires at 2600.

 

While that is very healthy you should still be able to get a properly built 700 to hold up and you can just as easily burn up a 350. Do you add nitrous on top of that?

 

yes, the big numbers are from the nitrous.
my guess is somewhere in the area of 800 ft lbs at the rear tires @ 2600 rpm....which is like 950 at the flywheel. When I race on nitrous, I leave right off of idle, i dont even come up on the convertor. My car 60 fts and ets way better that way. my converter was a 2700-3000 stall.
The 350 i have now that is messed up was in a car going 9.20`s on spray and 10.40`s on motor and never had a problem with it.
we are in the process of trying to determine the problem and cause of what it is doing now....maybe the converter i put in it was messed up and blew the trans because of it.
The filter was full of all kinds of stuff and when i first started that trans, you coul hear the valve body making some kind of pumping noises, very similar to what an EFI fuel pump makes. So i dont know what the deal is