Transmissions and Drivetrain Need help with your trans? Problems with your axle?

Transfixleo, ad other tranny shop guys...

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Old Oct 7, 2001 | 10:12 AM
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Xenodrgn's Avatar
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From: Bayville NJ and Newark at NJIT.
Transfixleo, ad other tranny shop guys...

How much would it cost me to have my tranny rebuilt by your shop? I'm trying to get an idea of how much a reputable shop will charge me when I get my tranny rebuilt... not that I get ripped off...

The fluid is brown and burnt, and is gritty, so assume whatever you have to assume...

For a rebuilt with a good shiftkit, boosted line pressure and a corvette servo, and to have you guys drop the trans and reinstall it and calibrate it... (any other goodies you can recommend for basically street, but the not so occasional rice cooking?) How much of my non-existant money will this set me back?

------------------
1985 Camaro SC - 2.8L, auto.

C'mon, spin 'em for papa...
http://www.xenodrgn.f2s.com/Frontright.jpg
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Old Oct 7, 2001 | 10:14 AM
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From: Bayville NJ and Newark at NJIT.
*and, sorry 'bout that...
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Old Oct 7, 2001 | 07:00 PM
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It depends allot on what converter you end up with and what condition your tranny is in now as to parts that are in it. I just did the tranny in my Camaro over the weekend and to my suprise (this is a 2.8L) it had the Corvette rear planetary already in it. This reduces the parts that I needed to update but for the average tranny with my 'recipe' build and not too radical of a converter and the mandatory TruCool cooler you would be in the $1600 range with one year/unlimited mileage coverage. I can find a ton of guys who will do it (replace parts) for less but I am not sure that they will know what they are doing. If need be I can even find people who will charge more but again I can't vouch for the outcome!
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Old Oct 8, 2001 | 05:59 PM
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From: Webster, N.Y.
Anybody else? Not too many people want to discuss costs up front so you will likely have to ask for E-mails with prices.
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Old Oct 8, 2001 | 07:35 PM
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From: Calimesa, California, U.S.
My top of the line 700R4 street/strip or road race transmissions sell for $1395.00 outright. They come with a one year/unlimited mileage warranty. Torque converters can run any where from $545.00 for a A.C.T. 9.5" lockup torque converter, to the Vigilante 9.5" lockup $719.00. Both TC's come with a one year warranty and free stall change if desired/needed. Continental has a 10" non-lockup for $449.00. Stalls for these are fromm 2,400 on up, depending upon your particular application. Listed below is everything that comes in the street/strip transmission.

Front Pump: new (late design) seal, Teflon bushing, 10-vane rotor/slide assembly, Trans-Go steel rings & priming spring, special heavy duty pressure regulator valve, Trans-Go HD pressure regulator spring, .296 intermediate/reverse boost valve, .500 main boost valve, both halves of pump machined flat with rotor to pump clearance set at .001-.0015. New stator support.

Reverse Input Drum: New GM reverse/input drum, along with the Turbulator low-drag steels, and Borg Warner clutches.

Input Drum: New latest design Borg Warner input sprag, Borg Warner clutches for the overrun and forward clutch assemblies, 8 Borg Warner Hi-Energy clutches along with Kolene steels used in the 3-4 clutch pack, Trans-Go (Hi-Rev) heavy duty springs replace the OEM 3-4 and forward springs and 3-4 helper springs (the Trans-Go springs prevent the 3-4 clutches from getting into trouble, due to centrifugal clutch apply up to 7,800 rpm, stock starts getting into trouble around 5,000 rpm), clearance for the 3-4 clutch pack .040-.055, a Viton input to output shaft seal is used, the Viton is soft (will withstand 650 degrees F.) and will conform to the output shaft thereby guaranteeing oil to the rear planet.

Rear Drive Section: Hand picked input sun gear, forward planet with batwing thrust washers, input internal gear, reaction carrier shaft, a new GM latest design sun shell, low/reverse support, the latest design Borg Warner low/reverse roller assembly, Turbulator low-drag steels, Borg Warner clutches, new rear planet, hand picked reaction sun gear, internal reaction gear, internal reaction gear support, a bronze rear case bushing, new gear on the governor, and a Teflon extension housing bushing and a Vamac (prelubed) rear seal.

2-4 Band & 2-4 Servo: Borg Warner Hi-Energy 2-4 band, new Corvette 2nd gear apply servo used in conjunction with the latest design Viton seals. An additional spring is added to the cushion side of the servo to help provide a smoother 1-2 apply at light throttle while still allowing a firm WOT shift.

Valve Body: We use the Trans-Go Performance Shift kit in conjunction with the large boost valves, Corvette servo, and the 8 clutch 3-4 pack. (This setup has proven to be the most reliable). We work with the accumulators to give the best possible part throttle shifts, and progressively firmer shifts with more throttle opening. A Sealed Power (zero-leak) filter is used.

The Case: We use the 1988-1992 transmission to start our builds with unless a special request to do otherwise.
I hope this helps you out.
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Old Oct 15, 2001 | 09:41 AM
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From: Bayville NJ and Newark at NJIT.
Wow, thanks guys! Sorry I've been really busy so I havn't been able to get back here to check up...

Considering the condition of my fluid, do you think I'll need a new TC? That sounds like it's the bulk of the price right there... I was really hoping to not have to spend 1600 on a rebuild... transfix, does that include the labor of taking it out and putting it in?

Lets assume that you drop the trans, rebuild it with the normal seals clutches and bands and everything, install the shiftkit, servo and line pressure, are we talking any cheaper? With and without a stall?

Thanks guys, I really appreciate you coming right out like this and quoting prices, at least now i know what -good- shop will charge.

------------------
1985 Camaro SC - 2.8L, auto.

C'mon, spin 'em for papa...
http://www.xenodrgn.f2s.com/Frontright.jpg
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Old Oct 15, 2001 | 01:42 PM
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That includes install and a modest converter. The high end stuff will raise the price but consider this: two or three times the cost of a cheaper build will be allot more than this price. You will have to check what people will charge in your area but you also havve to either know people who have dealt with them or be psychic as to whether they are good ("Oh yea, I do them all the time" turns into a glazed look when there is a problem- I am sure a bunch of people will back me up on that one!).
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