Hey everyone, I am having a problem on my '88 Trans Am 305 TPI 5-spd. There are a few different reasons for me to suspect something is wrong with the transmission.
First, ever since I have had the car, I've had some problems with the engine cutting in and out, almost, in 5th gear. It doesn't cut out completely, or anything, but when I give it light-moderate throttle on the highway, for example, the RPM jump up and down varying by about 200 RPM or so. Accompanied with this RPM jump/drop is a bucking of the car, so to speak. The best way I can describe it is if you push the gas in all the way, then take you foot off the gas, except it does it far more rapidly than I could with my foot. If I give it any more or any less than low-moderate throttle, the problem stops. Recently, the problem has extended into the other gears, usually around 2000 RPM or so.
The reason I suspect the transmission is that I hear a strange sound every once and a while coming from the transmission area. When engaging a gear, I hear a sqeaking sound. Followed by that, it becomes relatively difficult to get the shifter to go into gear. But this only happens every once and a while.

I suspected the clutch at first, but I got this checked out, and they said nothing was wrong with it. I had the tranny rebuilt last fall, and the car has a bit over 145,000 miles on it. I don't know what else it could be, exactly, maybe a sensor, or bearing? Please let me know what you guys think. Thanks in advance.

-Bill

 

man, you are allowed to disregard anything i say, i'm no expert hahaha
but check your egr.... code 32... does your check engine light ever come on
cuz mine is... and at cruising speeds it will buck like that (mine does it more in the lower gears)
thats just an idea... it does it when you regulate the accelorator... its like if i'm not accelorating or decelorating it starts bucking like that... its rather violent
hope it helps some

 

It happened to me when I was in Germany. Turned out to be a $12.00 distributor cap and rotor. When your cap and rotor wear out or your wires burn up, the car bucks violently at low RPMs under load. It wouldn't hurt to take a look at them. Now if you're having problems getting it into gear then you might need a new clutch set. I'm on my third T-5 and have experienced pretty much every symptom of a bad tranny or clutch there is.


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92' Camaro RS 305 TBI
Best 1/4 mile - 14.6 @ 96 mph w/NO NOS
Best 60' - 1.9 secs
Check it out
https://www.thirdgen.org/rides/index...ew&rideid=4860

[This message has been edited by pwdbychevy (edited October 18, 2001).]

 

Thanks for your replies, guys, I'll be sure to check out the distributor cap and rotor and actually probably just replace them for good measure. As far as the check engine light, I have never seen it go on, ever, even when I had the plug wires hooked up wrong, once a long time ago... This might help: there's one other symptom I forgot to mention.

- The "upshift" light comes on, and flickers when the tach jumps (in fifth gear, primarily)
What could cause the ecm to think I should upshift out of 5th gear?, when clearly there's no where else to go? Maybe a faulty VSS? I just don't know. Hopefully someone can help. Thanks all.

-Bill

 

Now the shift light thing I've never had happen to me. Disconnect your VSS and drive it around to see if it happens again. If it doesn't then it could probably be the VSS. Just a question but have you changed your ECM chip recently? If you have a power chip then put the factory one back in and test it to see if you have the same problem.

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92' Camaro RS 305 TBI
Best 1/4 mile - 14.6 @ 96 mph w/NO NOS
Best 60' - 1.9 secs
Check it out
https://www.thirdgen.org/rides/index.tgo?action=view&rideid=4860

 

When you have the ignition on, but the car not started, does the engine light come on? If it doesn't then it might have burnt out or someone took it out. I say this because you could be having troubles and not even know it without the light. You can also run a diagnostic and see if there are any stored codes. How old is the O2 sensor? If its got high miles on it, then it should be replaced anyway. Mine went south and was showing the same syptoms as a bad EGR. Hope this helps.

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• 89 Formula 305 WS6
  SFC's, LCA's, Air Foil
  Spohn Panhard Bar
  Flowmaster Cat Back, Tranny Cooler
  A/F Ratio Meter (not a mod but it sure spurs interest)
  Trans Temp Gauge
  Most "Free" Mods
  3:73, Zexel Torsion Posi
  Catco cat
  CAI W/ K&N
  
  15.559 @ 88 MPH
  (Not good enough)

 

Thanks again, everyone. The engine light does not come on with the ignition on, and the car off, which leads me to believe you are correct, it has been removed/disconnected. I know the trick of connecting the two ports on the diagnostic connector thing, but wouldn't I need the check engine light in order to read if it is throwing out any codes? This weekend I'll have to replace the O2 sensor, and the dist. stuff for good measure, and I'll check the VSS, also. I'm in college now, so it's hard for me to work on the car too much. Any other thoughts or ideas are welcomed, and I'll keep you all posted.

-Bill