Transmissions and Drivetrain Need help with your trans? Problems with your axle?

need help quick with hydralic clutch

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Old Oct 23, 2001 | 05:25 PM
  #1  
Paul_Hughes_87 T/A's Avatar
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From: Brampton On
Car: Chrysler 300c
Engine: 5.7L Hemi
Transmission: 5spd auto
Axle/Gears: 2.89
need help quick with hydralic clutch

i swapped in a t5 over the weekend and at first the clutch wouldnt engage. then we bled the clutch and it engaged but it did not adjust it engaged right at the floor. last night i was out driving and i pulled into a gas station and when i pressed the clutch i lost all hydralic pressure. I looked under the car and fluid was pissing out of the slave. my question is what happened and do i need too change the entire assembly or the slave and if it is the slave how do i change it

thank you

Paul

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Old Oct 23, 2001 | 05:47 PM
  #2  
Paul_Hughes_87 T/A's Avatar
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From: Brampton On
Car: Chrysler 300c
Engine: 5.7L Hemi
Transmission: 5spd auto
Axle/Gears: 2.89
one more thing how easy is it to switch to cable clutch
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Old Oct 23, 2001 | 06:40 PM
  #3  
lonsal's Avatar
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From: Hacienda Heights, CA
Car: 90 RS 'Vert, 88 IROC-Z, 88 Firebird
Engine: 305 ci tbi, 305 ci tpi, 350 ci tpi
Transmission: WC-T5, WC-T5, 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.45, 3.27, 3.27
You can replace the slave only, but I've not heard of good results. It will also need to be bled. I recommend swapping the entire master/slave for a new GM unit. But first find out why the old one blew out. Is the clutch fork the correct one? V6 & V8 are different length. Is the fork over center? The end where the slave cylinder presses should be level or slighly lower in relation to the end pressing the throwout bearing. Think of a teeter-totter. If the end with the slave cylinder is already too far out the slave cylinder will puke its guts when you engage the clutch. Some have solved this by fabricating a longer rod from a bolt and replacing the stock one. This is a bandaid, but works. There are also throwout bearings that are thicker. It doesn't take much to correct the problem. You do not want to convert to the old style cable clutch unit. The firewall on those cars were reinforced to take the extra pressure. Yours isn't.

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Old Oct 23, 2001 | 09:49 PM
  #4  
Paul_Hughes_87 T/A's Avatar
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From: Brampton On
Car: Chrysler 300c
Engine: 5.7L Hemi
Transmission: 5spd auto
Axle/Gears: 2.89
the seal broke in the old slave
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Old Oct 24, 2001 | 10:30 AM
  #5  
99Hawk120's Avatar
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From: Rock Hill, SC
Car: 1999 Pontiac T/A Firehawk
Engine: ***'s Engine
Transmission: T56
Your slave just bit it. That happens. (Assuming it wasn't too new).

I'd get the entire brand new setup from GM. If you get a fourthgen ('93-'97) setup it works fine and you get a nifty braided steel line to go with it. Plus it was a little cheaper.
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Old Jun 23, 2002 | 09:58 AM
  #6  
sunbound's Avatar
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From: Beaver Dam, WI
Car: 1987 IROC-Z
Engine: 350
Transmission: T-5
Originally posted by lonsal
I recommend swapping the entire master/slave for a new GM unit.
why swap the whole thing out?

jon
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