Auto to t5 swap
08-30-2009, 08:41 PM
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Car: 87 IROC
Engine: 305
Transmission: 700r4
Auto to t5 swap
I have an automatic 87 IROC with a 305 and I recently ruined my tranny so I am thinking about switching to a 5-speed.
I need to know exactly what parts I need for this and if there is some thread with directions I could use that too please. Thank you.
I need to know exactly what parts I need for this and if there is some thread with directions I could use that too please. Thank you.
08-31-2009, 11:04 PM
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Location: Gloucester Co. N.J.
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Car: 86 IROC
Engine: 350 Miniram
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Re: Auto to t5 swap
Obviously you need a trans. World class t5's are stronger. I think they started in 86 and on.
Pedal assy.
Flywheel for a 1pc. rear main seal. Also known as an internally balanced flywheel. 153 tooth.
Flywheel bolts. You can't use your flexplate bolts cause they're too small. ARP has them.
Pressure plate bolts. ARP as well.
Torque arm mount. Auto and 5sp. are 2 totally different mounts. Get the mounting hardware as well. Also, the tailshaft bracket that holds up the exhaust by the cat that mounts on the other side of the mount is different as well. I never got one or try to fab something up. My exhaust was pretty secure without one.
Hydrolic assy: Resivoir, hose from resivoir to master cyl, master cyl., line from master cyl to slave cyl., slave cyl., and mounting hardware and brackets. It's best to get everything out in one piece from a donor car or shop online or ask here!
Clutch kit. One with the necessities or get them.: Alignment tool, pilot bearing, throwout bearing.
Shifter. Stock is cheaper but Pro 5.0 is awesome.
As far as how to this is what I used:
http://www.fbodymotorsports.com/thirdgen5spdconversion
Everything is pretty well explained except if you measure 21in back from the bellhousing, you get a better center to measure to cut out the shifter hole.
As for wiring, the harness that unplugs from the auto shifter:
The large purple and yellow wires are your neutral safty. Either wire them into your pedal assy or splice them together to override.
The green and blue wires are for the reverse lights. Either get the harness off the donor car or tpi parts on e-bay has it for $10. Just use the old shifter cable hole and grommet to run to trans.
As for the hole for the clutch master cyl.:
Bolt up the pedal assy, Make a cardboard template of the mounting flange of the master cyl, match that up with the reinforcing arms on your pedal assy for the clutch master cyl., transfer the hole position onto the firewall. I think the center hole was a 1 1/2". Then you have to file the hole to an oval because of the way the master cyl. is mounted at an angle.
Any other q's PM me or post up. Good luck, take your time, measure 3 times before you cut, and take breaks to calm your nerves. I just finished my swap about a month ago and between sourcing parts and taking breaks in between it took me about 2 weeks. Don't try to do it in one weekend, it will drive you nuts. Do a little at a time and don't rush things or cut corners or it will come back to haunt you sooner or later.
You're gonna love the 5sp. WAAAY easier to swap out if you need to and tons of fun.
Pedal assy.
Flywheel for a 1pc. rear main seal. Also known as an internally balanced flywheel. 153 tooth.
Flywheel bolts. You can't use your flexplate bolts cause they're too small. ARP has them.
Pressure plate bolts. ARP as well.
Torque arm mount. Auto and 5sp. are 2 totally different mounts. Get the mounting hardware as well. Also, the tailshaft bracket that holds up the exhaust by the cat that mounts on the other side of the mount is different as well. I never got one or try to fab something up. My exhaust was pretty secure without one.
Hydrolic assy: Resivoir, hose from resivoir to master cyl, master cyl., line from master cyl to slave cyl., slave cyl., and mounting hardware and brackets. It's best to get everything out in one piece from a donor car or shop online or ask here!
Clutch kit. One with the necessities or get them.: Alignment tool, pilot bearing, throwout bearing.
Shifter. Stock is cheaper but Pro 5.0 is awesome.
As far as how to this is what I used:
http://www.fbodymotorsports.com/thirdgen5spdconversion
Everything is pretty well explained except if you measure 21in back from the bellhousing, you get a better center to measure to cut out the shifter hole.
As for wiring, the harness that unplugs from the auto shifter:
The large purple and yellow wires are your neutral safty. Either wire them into your pedal assy or splice them together to override.
The green and blue wires are for the reverse lights. Either get the harness off the donor car or tpi parts on e-bay has it for $10. Just use the old shifter cable hole and grommet to run to trans.
As for the hole for the clutch master cyl.:
Bolt up the pedal assy, Make a cardboard template of the mounting flange of the master cyl, match that up with the reinforcing arms on your pedal assy for the clutch master cyl., transfer the hole position onto the firewall. I think the center hole was a 1 1/2". Then you have to file the hole to an oval because of the way the master cyl. is mounted at an angle.
Any other q's PM me or post up. Good luck, take your time, measure 3 times before you cut, and take breaks to calm your nerves. I just finished my swap about a month ago and between sourcing parts and taking breaks in between it took me about 2 weeks. Don't try to do it in one weekend, it will drive you nuts. Do a little at a time and don't rush things or cut corners or it will come back to haunt you sooner or later.
You're gonna love the 5sp. WAAAY easier to swap out if you need to and tons of fun.
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