I need to rebuild my 700r4. my current one is not holding up to my power levels anymore it seems.
I want to buy my own parts and give it to a reputable shop to build for me.
I am looking for suggestions on kits?
I have done my own research and parts and so far this is what I have:

Hughes premium overhaul kit - Kolene steels, "red" alto race frictions, Kevlar lined race band.

HP3788K

TCI full manual reverse valve body w/ full engine braking

376015

TCI beast sunshell -

373900

TCI Mega-Pressure Boost Valves -

374401
374410

TCI 5-pinion Planetaries -

370000
370100

Jet Billet servos

700222
750213


I already have a nice 3000stall TC, a deep oil pan, and an additional oil cooler, I also know I would need a nice reverse pattern ratchet shifter.
Any insight into my parts list? What could I change or get instead or am I missing anything?

 

check out pro built transmissions http://www.700r4l60e.com/

 

Thanks man I really am interested in that "pro street elite" kit
http://www.700r4l60e.com/store/produ...&cat=19&page=1

With that it looks like I would just need my manual valve body from TCI still.
Would the Transgo shift kit work with the valve body or would the TCI manual valve body come with its own shift kit to match the valve body? Im not sure how that works together.

 

The TransGo is a forward pattern, and is much easier on the gear train. I do not like the "full manual" valve bodies, hard on everything. The modified TransGo Shift kit that I use will give you everything you need here. Forget the 5 pinion planetaries, and put the money torward a "good" torque converter. What raer end gear ratio? and what have you done to the motor? That picture of a rebuild kit is a TH350. Dana

 

I have a tci 10" 3000stall
3.42
see signature, F1 procharged 383 with all the goodies. 236/248 cam
I figured it was a generic photo.

This is not a normal street car, I like the idea of a full manual for full control over my gear and shift points, but if you can guarantee your kit will be badass and shift upwards of 7000rpm and i can shift it early if need be, im all in. i need your 750+hp kit.

 

Anything over 5,000 rpm and you can shift any gear right now. The TCI 10" torque converter is a lockup, correct? What year transmission are you working on? Tell me about the combination you are running? Dana

 

So I leave it in drive and floor it, your kits would automatically shift at 5k? but if I hold it in any gear, it will really hold until I manually kick it into the next gear?
yup
not sure, its the latest model I believe, 89-92
Engine combination? its a 383 with 7psi currently, but planned for 13-15psi, through my f1a procharger, long tubes, 3.5" exhaust, barely street driven except for thirdgen meets and other events, I want to tear it up at the track primarily.
trans combination? it was bought second hand, has a trans go shift kit, corvette servo, some extra clutch packs. thats all I can recall. worked fine last 5 years until i put it behind my new engine.

 

The governor you are using now will determine the WOT shift rpm. If it is 5,000 rpm then anytime you hold the lever past that point and move it the shift will be right then. Tou can over come the governor on the top side of the WOT shift point, but not below that. If you want the WOT shifts to be lower, then that will require a governor and possible valve body change. At what rpm does the transmission shift at now at WOT? The Pro Street Elite will do what you want here with the supercharger you are going to run. Dana

 

Can you rephrase that last sentence, its not clear.
my current trans shifted upwards of 5-5500rpm on its own. but now second gear is slipping pretty good.

 

the solution is a 4l60E haha.
jk, but if you can afford it you would probably be much happier.
not trying to put down Pro Built Automatics, but Bowtie Overdrives has a few nice transmissions as well.
anything built by a professional will tend to hold up longer than one you build yourself, for the simple fact that all the parts will work perfectly together.
not only that but most will have a warranty

 

im not gonna build it myself, I just want the parts, and take it to a local shop of my choosing. I dont want to pay shipping or a core for another trans when I have one here that just needs new guts.

 

You should just take your transmission to Dana he is CA too

 

I researched that but he is about 450miles south of me :x

 

M any people have bought kits and have had their builder of choice build it for them. As long as the builder follows what I say and use, it works almost everytime without problems. It is when they start to add their two cents worth of ideas that they start having problems. As long as you have confidence in the builder, then there should be no problems. You can always have the builder call me, if they have any questions. Dana

 

i just put together my 700r4 and my dads... i got dana's pro street upgrade for 650+hp... came with everything and just followed his detailed directions... went together easily with a manual.even called him a few times for questions and he always took the time for me.

dads 700r4 used the street heavy duty full rebuild.

i gave parts for my 700r4 to be built by a trans guy that weve used before... told him what i wanted upgraded etc and gave him parts... i drove around for 3 yrs with a trans that i thought was upgraded... when i took it apart i was surprised... gave him a transgo no yoyo shift kit, vette servo, B&M upshift valve etc and he said he upgraded the 3-4clutch pack to 7 clutches and did other things etc. 3-4 pack only had the stock # of clutches, shift kit was a B&M cr@pper... gotta be careful bc they can put whatever they want in there and u'll never kno the difference.

 

I would reccomend a hardend Pump Rotor PATC Transmissions has them available for about 80 or so, also TransGOs NO YOYO HI REV Pump Vane Ring Kit approx 15, I have 5 pinion Planets for good prices, i would reccomend using a late model 4L60E 3/4 Clutch stack up with 6 .080 Clutches and 5 .106 Steels, and the Apply Plate with legs, get koleen steels if you can, that pack holds up well, may also want to consider a full throttle 3-4 shift valve, prob more but thats all i can think of for now

Brett@ShiftRiteTransmissions.com

 

Dana, Whats your opinion on the above post?

 

red dragon... idk if u kno but the 4l60e is just an electric verson of the 700r4... there is no power handling advantages over the later (late87-92 700r4s) maybe u meant the 4l80's... those are stronger.

as stated dont bother with the 5 pinion planets... they are too expensive and the 4 pinon planets will hold up fine if they are in good shape. i wouldnt listen to brett427 too much... a 6 clutch 3-4pack would burn up behind the power your making... mine had 6 clutches i believe and my thing would feel like it was slipping and mine had less than 30,000 on it, my engine was a stock 350tpi long block with intake and exhaust mods.

what you want are good frictons, i would stick to alto reds or borg warner high energy. the packs are all the stock size and the band will be one or the other with hardened anchors. the 3-4 pack depends on the clutches used. i like the 9clutch borg warner high energy which has 9 clutches and not that weak @SS 6 clutch CR@P. you want the beast sun shell, trangso shift kit, 10vain pump with hardend rotor and transgo hardened unbreakable pump rings. (check stator for wear, replace if need be) you want boost valves, mega boost valve and low reverse boost valve(increases line pressure for firmer shifts) your gona want to upgrade the servos, with you power i would do billet servos for increased cramping force over the corvette servo. you want the transgo high rev spring kit...allows 7800rpm shifts etc (stiffer than stock) Now dont forget that the transgo shift kit has to be balanced and talyored to the upgrades such as tq converter size, stall, servo size etc. which is why i like the kits from DANA.

other things would be modified upshift valve, stocker is 50% throttle before 4-3 downshift... i have a B&M one that allows 2/3 throttle before downshift, but DANA can tell u how to modify ur stock one for wide open throttle shifts.

You do not want kevlar on anything bc its too hard on parts, its strong but it wears parts vs stopping them. Your also gona want a higher flowing checkball in the input shaft for better tq converter lock up(if ur using a lockup converter) a deep trans pan and good fluid would be wise as well as an external trans cooler

DANA's kits really cover all the basis, there are upgrades that im not even metioning, heavy duty sleeves, better bearings, 29 element sprags etc. Call him and hell hook u up

 

Well I rebuild about 20-30 of these a month, black bird is incorrect in that the 700R4 and 4L60E are the same, they however are not as far as the 3/4 clutch pack goes, i would not use the old 700R4 3/4 Stack up with the .080 clutches and .077 steels and pressure plate, you need to use the stack up i stated above with HI energy 3/4 clutches and 1 peice apply plate with legs (Used in 95 UP 4L60Es), altos are ok too or even a Z Pack. 5 Pinion Planets are a must with over 400 -450 HP, i find approx 1 in 8 Rear planets are bad in 700R4/4L60E teardowns. GM uses the 5 pinion rear planets behind any 2001-UP truck or corvette with a 6.0 L engine or larger, which i think is approx 380 HP, so go figure maybe the engineers at GM dont know what they are doing lol. You can get the GM 5 Pinion Planets from me for 240 (or on the bay) for the set with a reaction shaft which is a hell of a deal by the way they are all brand new GM. DO NOT BUY AFTERMARKET 5 pinions they are junk weaker than 4 Pinon GMs. Aftermarket planets will usually have a TY #### mark on them or somthing similar

 

i was saying that with the 4l60e you can have full control of up/down shifting characteristics. but i know that they are no stronger stock than a 700r4.

 

The 3/4 Clutch pack is stronger on a 4L60E vs a 700R4

 

when i said the 700-4l60e are the same i meant that they are basically the same trans... the only real modification to them was the electronic controls... that would make them not a direct bolt in to any 700r4 original car. There were modifications in the inside, i kno bc i had one apart. things like the valve body etc pump, pump valves are all diff but "essentially" they are the same.

thank-you red dragon... the 4l603 besides the electronic controls and i believe GM upgraded them all so they all came with the vette servo i believe, there are no strength differences.

One thing that GM did to the 4L60e is they put in a 13 vein pump (which is poop) it doesnt flow enough as the 10vein in the later 700r4s and had issues supplying fluid at higher RPMs... GM installed the 13 vein pump to help with the pump pulses to make the trans a QUIETER car, since engines/cars were getting quieter ppl could now hear the transmissions. GM solved this with the 13vein pump.

im not sure how many clutches is in the 3-4pack on the 700 and the 4l60e... i believe the 700 is 5 or 6 and the 4l60e is 5-6 clutches... either way they are both weak and should be upgraded. if the 4l60e has any advantage over the 700r4 is prob in the steels/apply plates... im not to familiar with that. I just know to upgrade them, 4l60e also had heavy duty checkball in the input shaft which had 2 grooves cut in it vs the 700r4(before 1995) which had only 1 groove. this allowed more pressure/fluid to engage the lockup on the converter. Different driving style will require different style of clutches depending on the cars purpose. again 3 brands to look into would be the borgwarner high energys, rebeystos Zpack, red alto. From what ive heard/red is that the red altos should be used in racing applications sine they have a harder time dissengaging in downshifts etc (could be wrong) with a street car you would be fine with borg warners. doesnt the Zpack have like 16 clutches in it? for the 3-4? but they are all one sided

 

For making WOT 3-4 shifts and keeping it in 4th gear at higher speeds, you can block the 4-3 passages in the TV sleeve with a couple of Allen screws. Very easy to do and cost about $0.40 cents. As for 3-4 clutch packs I have found that over the last 14 years the Borg Warner Hi-Energy clutches to be the best for any setup. The reason that GM went with the 5 pinion was a bottm line move. They have never had problems with the 4 pinion planetaries. Many of the top builders have 4 pinion setups in their 9 second vehicles (mine too) without breakage problems. GM made the 5 pinion planet assemblies out of sintered (powdered iron). The pinions are not as strong as their forged counterparts, therefore the aditional pinion was needed. It is much cheaper to make the carriers and the pinions this way. Because of the loss of slight loss of strength the additional pinion was needed. Chrysler went with 5 pinions because they were having problems with 4, GM was not. You can go to any message board and see 4 pinion planet breakage failures are rare. Stay away from the aftermarket 4 & 5 pinion setups, they are junk.