Clunk in rear end
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Member
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 226
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From: High Desert, CA
Car: 90 RS / 89 IROC
Engine: 305 TBI / 305 TPI
Transmission: 700R4 / T5
Axle/Gears: 3.73 / 3.08
Clunk in rear end
I am going to have the rear end of the car taken into the shop, but would like any opinions first on what it might be. With the rear of the car jacked up, spinning one wheel will make the other turn opposite but only for a couple revolutions, then it stops turning on the other side. Gear problem?
Re: Clunk in rear end
As long as the pinion is not turning the other axle will turn. If the pinion starts turning then the other axle might stop or slow down. Watch the pinion when the other axle stops turning.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 226
Likes: 0
From: High Desert, CA
Car: 90 RS / 89 IROC
Engine: 305 TBI / 305 TPI
Transmission: 700R4 / T5
Axle/Gears: 3.73 / 3.08
Re: Clunk in rear end
It hasn't been taken apart yet. So nothing to actually look at. What does it mean if it is or isn't turning with the pinion.
Examples of the clunk:
Yesterday when loading up the car on a flatbed, I pulled out of the driveway in reverse, did a turn to line up with the truck, and when I stopped in reverse, I heard a very loud bang from the rear.
Last week, while turning on to my street, I would always hear a loud pop/clunk noise as if I had run over something that shot out from under my tire.
Examples of the clunk:
Yesterday when loading up the car on a flatbed, I pulled out of the driveway in reverse, did a turn to line up with the truck, and when I stopped in reverse, I heard a very loud bang from the rear.
Last week, while turning on to my street, I would always hear a loud pop/clunk noise as if I had run over something that shot out from under my tire.
Re: Clunk in rear end
The pinion, or drive shaft. The drive shaft is connected to the yoke, which is connected to the pinion gear. Did you have it in park when you were turning the wheel?
If it's poping when you turn then it might be the differential. You may have the Auburn unit and it might need the oil changed. Is the rear end leakig anywhere?
If it's poping when you turn then it might be the differential. You may have the Auburn unit and it might need the oil changed. Is the rear end leakig anywhere?
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 226
Likes: 0
From: High Desert, CA
Car: 90 RS / 89 IROC
Engine: 305 TBI / 305 TPI
Transmission: 700R4 / T5
Axle/Gears: 3.73 / 3.08
Re: Clunk in rear end
The pinion, or drive shaft. The drive shaft is connected to the yoke, which is connected to the pinion gear. Did you have it in park when you were turning the wheel?
If it's poping when you turn then it might be the differential. You may have the Auburn unit and it might need the oil changed. Is the rear end leakig anywhere?
If it's poping when you turn then it might be the differential. You may have the Auburn unit and it might need the oil changed. Is the rear end leakig anywhere?
It could be as simple as oil? It sounds horrible when it bangs. I haven't noticed any leaks in the rear.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 226
Likes: 0
From: High Desert, CA
Car: 90 RS / 89 IROC
Engine: 305 TBI / 305 TPI
Transmission: 700R4 / T5
Axle/Gears: 3.73 / 3.08
Re: Clunk in rear end
Thanks for the input BGH!
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Re: Clunk in rear end
It's probably an Auburn. They have 5 springs in them. I wouldn't put another Auburn in it. I'd put an Eaton Posi in it. This is a much better unit than the Auburn. It might cost a little bit more, but it's well worth it.
There isn't much available that's stronger at a low cost. The Moser 12 bolt is probably the best deal for the money, but they start at $2200 with the Eaton Posi. The 9 bolt is a little stronger than the 10 bot, but not a lot.
There isn't much available that's stronger at a low cost. The Moser 12 bolt is probably the best deal for the money, but they start at $2200 with the Eaton Posi. The 9 bolt is a little stronger than the 10 bot, but not a lot.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 226
Likes: 0
From: High Desert, CA
Car: 90 RS / 89 IROC
Engine: 305 TBI / 305 TPI
Transmission: 700R4 / T5
Axle/Gears: 3.73 / 3.08
Re: Clunk in rear end
It's probably an Auburn. They have 5 springs in them. I wouldn't put another Auburn in it. I'd put an Eaton Posi in it. This is a much better unit than the Auburn. It might cost a little bit more, but it's well worth it.
There isn't much available that's stronger at a low cost. The Moser 12 bolt is probably the best deal for the money, but they start at $2200 with the Eaton Posi. The 9 bolt is a little stronger than the 10 bot, but not a lot.
There isn't much available that's stronger at a low cost. The Moser 12 bolt is probably the best deal for the money, but they start at $2200 with the Eaton Posi. The 9 bolt is a little stronger than the 10 bot, but not a lot.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 226
Likes: 0
From: High Desert, CA
Car: 90 RS / 89 IROC
Engine: 305 TBI / 305 TPI
Transmission: 700R4 / T5
Axle/Gears: 3.73 / 3.08
Re: Clunk in rear end
I don't have any pics of it, but it's a spring or something in the carrier.
Re: Clunk in rear end
The Eaton Posi has 4 springs and 2 preload plates between the axle gears. These springs almost never cause any problems. I'd like to know what happened to make this spring get out of place. Something else must have happened to the rear end to cause this.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 226
Likes: 0
From: High Desert, CA
Car: 90 RS / 89 IROC
Engine: 305 TBI / 305 TPI
Transmission: 700R4 / T5
Axle/Gears: 3.73 / 3.08
Re: Clunk in rear end
It seems that it wasn't properly adjusted when it was built the first time. A worm gear? or something was broken.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 226
Likes: 0
From: High Desert, CA
Car: 90 RS / 89 IROC
Engine: 305 TBI / 305 TPI
Transmission: 700R4 / T5
Axle/Gears: 3.73 / 3.08
Re: Clunk in rear end
My mechanic asures me it's an eaton. I just can't be sure of what it actually was. I know it wasn't aligned correctly though. (shims)
Re: Clunk in rear end
You might have an Eaton Gov-Loc type posi in there. Those are way common and highly prone to breakage. If it is a Gov-Loc, I wouldn't spend a dime on repairing it, they're weak as hell. As Big Gear Head said already, the Eaton clutch style posi unit is quite strong and very reliable. If you don't want to spend the money for one of those, you could pick up a used Torsen posi carrier out of a 98-02, 4th gen f-body. You can get them pretty cheap on ebay, usually $150 or less, and they use gears for the posi action, so there's no clutches to wear out. Here's a pic of a Gov-Loc unit. Btw, if you decide to pick up a Torsen, make sure to get the right series for your gear ratio. They come in 2 and 3 series. 2 series is 2.73-3.08, 3 series is 3.23-3.73.
Last edited by Pat Hall; Oct 30, 2009 at 05:46 AM.
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