Paid 360 without the torque arm bracket.
Came out of an 87 IROC going into my 91 Camaro RS (638 roller 350 block)
I need a clutch set and the flywheel needs to be resurfaced.

Did I get a good deal?

Would you recommend me resurfacing the fly wheel or buying another one? Just in case, a 305 flywheel is compatible with a 350?

 

i would just get a new flywheel, no point screwing with a used stock one. a SBC flywheel will fit just about any sbc.

could be a good deal if the trans is not broken, i assume the pedals have all the switches on them?

the trans you bought is a mechanical speedo setup, your car is electronic, you will have to deal with that too.

make be just pick up a aftermarket trans crossmember that relocates the torque arm, then you dont have to bother pulling your hair out finding the t5 torque arm bracket

 

The T5/T56 torque arm mount seems to be the same. FWIW.

 

They have all switches except I think the clutch switch? I saw 2 switchs on the brakes and what looked to be a switch needed for the clutch.

Yeah the mechanical to electronic is gonna be a pain... I want to maintain stock look in the interior so I don't know what I am going to o about that just yet... What would you suggest?

I have found a few torue arms for about 50 bucks. What can I get an aftermarket trans crossmember for? What type etc...

How many tooth is my flywheel? 168 I think?

 

Just get the VSS for your car with a 5spd. It's not that expensive or difficult.

 

flywheel should be 153 if its a t5, BMR or UMI for the crossmember, you can use your stock torque arm if you want.

i believe autometer makes the adapter for the mechanical signal to the electronic

 

that could work too, i dont know personally if the different senders fit in the same hole in the trans?

 

The transmission case is the same either way. It's just one bolt and the sender/adapter pulls out and you can swap it to the one you need. I'm sure it's been covered before, and it's probably even in the stickies on this forum. The stock parts to keep the stock cluster will cost a lot less then an Autometer speedometer, and wont require any hacking.

 

Hahaha this is true.
Alright, I will look up the speedometer thing later.

Will this work for my car:
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/cat...&parentId=12-0

 

Also the torque arm relocator would cost to much cause I then have to buy a new torue arm... Not ready for that just yet lol.

 

T-5 to T-5 is a direct swap, but the 700R4 wouldn't fit. Parts should be available from the following site:

http://www.transmissioncenter.net/sp...n_______va.htm

Remember too that the drive and/or driven gears in the trans may have to be swapped to make the speedo read correctly.

JamesC

 

I suppose I should chime in on this seeing how he got the trans from me. Didn't you say you were getting the torque arm mount? As for the speedo goes just get the sender for the T5 and you found the right flywheel from autozone. The clutch switch isnt on the pedals and I never had it on them that just means you can start the car in gear.

 

Yeah I think I found someone to buy it off. I am not too worried about the speedo problem cause from what I hear it's a pain to replace.

 

Dude the speedo sensor is just a simple 10mm bolt on the side of the trans

 

For the driven gear, yes, but the drive gear (if replacement is needed) is a another story. Check the sticky for the required gears for different ratios and a how-to.

JamesC

 

he shouldn't need to change it. I did the same swap like 2 years ago. all i did was pop the gear off the T5 cable and pop it on to the new sender and it worked fine.

 

Depends on the rear. For example, 3.23's up require a blue 7-tooth drive gear, plus the following driven gear:

18 tooth (p/n 3987918) Brown = 3.23
19 tooth (p/n 3987919) White = 3.42
20 tooth (p/n 3987920) Blue = 3.45
21 tooth (p/n 3987921) Red = 3.73
22 tooth (p/n 3987922) Gray =3.77

Consequently, if you have 3.23's up, the drive gear is fine, but the driven gear may require a swap.

3.08 down has an 9-tooth drive gear.

JamesC

 

I'd do whatever it takes to change the speedometer gear now, while you've got the transmission out of the car. This is advice coming from a guy with a Mustang running speedometer gears for 3.73's and 2.73 gears in the axle, for the last three years. It's not a huge deal, my speedometer just says I'm doing 55mph when I'm actually cruising at a comfortable 80mph. But it's very annoying. In my case I'm able to justify it because I'm planning on changing the rear gears at some point, and when I do, I'll change the driven gear and it'll be accurate. But if you're going to put it together once and leave it, then by all means do it right.