yea this is strange, this is my 5th adventure in crapin azz 700r4's but you know how you can gear down to slow down without hittin the brakes, well mine will not do that anymore, i rachet down and its like you are in neutral, if you tap the gas it will go up to the RPM the engine should be at the speed and go.... it does not slip between gears it perfect when you are on it or in 4th it will not drop RPMs when you let off 3 2 1 it goes down to idle as soon as you get out of it

it will still bark going into second firm as hell into 3 and 4 (its a built trans)

put it this way if you raw hyde it it loves you, if you baby it it hates you

so up shifting is fine but down shifting it slips? will it down shift itself when you stop?

is your OD functioning ok? sounds like what happened to me when my torque converter went out in my grand am, let off the gas getting off the highway or coming up to a light and it would just go to idle. but i also noticed in my built 700r4 in my TA that if you rachet down at high speeds like from 3-2 it wont drop in until a certain speed becuase of hydralic pressure. Let us know what you find.

will it reverse up a hill? if not converter is toast.

havent tried to back up a hill yet

after the last rebuild, it would engine brake as soon as you let off

and yea it downshifts fine and does everything else fine, just has no grab when you let off in 3 2 1 ......

if you jump the treminals the converter will lock up manualy, but still the same when you let off the gas, just free roll

or you can power brake in reverse. reverse operates at much higher line pressure. if reverse starts to go, then the rest not far behind.

huh

so if it will not back up a hill its the converter, but if it will power brake in reverse its inside maybe im not paying good attention but im lost

it will power brake in rev, i got nice burnouts marks in my driveway now
and i will back up fine with no slipping even up a little incline

the book says this:External linkage not adjusted properly.
valve body assembly:
*4-3 sequence valve stuck
*check ball mispositioned
*spacer plate and gaskets incorrect, damaged, or mispositioned.

Input clutch assembly:
*turbine shaft oil passages plugged or not drilled
*turbine shaft seal rings damaged
*turbine shaft sealing ***** loose ot missing
*porosity in forward or overran clutch piston
*overrun piston seals cut or damaged
*overrun piston check ball not sealed

pretty much what me and my transmison guy talked about today

your b&m shifter could have caused the problem

do explain how that could of caused it

if the shifter is not adjusted properly or has the wrong linkage.

oh well i know its adjusted properly, it took forever but i got it set right

My last 91 did the same thing......I drove it for another 100,000 miles with out any problems.

With no engine braking in 1, 2, or 3 positions, it is the overrun assembly that is the problem. The transmission will have to be taken apart to solve this. It will be obvious when it is down. It will either be the clutches, sprag, broken hub, etc. in the overrun assembly.

what would cause this the break???

It could be one of hese. The clutches are burnt (not holding). The sprag is not holding due to wear or it has flipped over (destroyed). The overrun hub is broken (fractured).