I have a question for you. Does your torque arm sit towards the passenger side of the car about an inch or so too much. Do you have to pull the torque arm over to get it to line up in the mount on the crossmember? Mine is this way (has been for years) and I e-mailed Spohn and they said they get asked that question a lot by Moser 9" owners.

My real question then is since I need to make a new mount for the torque arm becuase of my swap, do I make the mount where the torque arm naturally wants to sit, or do I make it line up where it did sit on the Spohn crossmember so that I have to pry it in to postition?

 

no mine snaps up and over alittle and i have a 9inch in mine you should put it in line how it was before or where the sphoon is mine did that with my factory rearend too

 

I have a Random Technologies ADJ. TQ Arm and a 9" in my car and it bolted right up just like stock.

 

Are your guys axles from Moser? The Spohn guy told me it was Moser specifically.

 

Yes, I have a Moser 9" housing and axles.

 

i havnet noticed this, though i have a UMI torque arm setup.

Does your arm have the 2 different sets of mounting holes on the axle mount side?

 

Yeah it has 2 sets of holes. I have to use the pair that does put it closer to the passenger side of the car (the outside set of holes). I tried it on the other set and the torque arm hits the floarboard real bad this way.

What set are you guys using?

 

i dont know off the top of my head

if you are building the new crossmember mount, make it so there is no stress on the arm side to side, but make sure the control arms are straight

 

The control arms are straight. I did an alignment on the car not too long ago. Although to mark the actual mount location I may push the car over to the alignment rack just do double check that it is straight. I can also check the pinion angle easier this way to check for the height of the mount.

Wonder if I shouldnt just use the other set of holes and let the arm clearance the floorboard?

 

how bad is it hitting the floor?

mine rubs the side of the tunnel, and punched a hole in the floor behind the rear seats.

 

I'll get a picture tomorrow but it sounds about the same as yours. I'm not even sure I drove the car with it in the other position. The marks on my tunnel may be just from setting the car down.

 

This is where it hits. It doesnt look bad in the picture but it pushed the tunnel in about an 1/8" maybe a little more. As I said before, I dont even remember if this is really from the other set of holes or not. This maybe the outside set of holes thats doing this. If so, there is no way I could use the other set. I didnt work on the car at all today (I slacked). I had to run up to my work to get the crossmember so I could bring it home to weld it up and while there I took this picture. On monday I'm pulling the trans case to start putting the trans back together. After I get it out I'll put the Spohn crossmember and torque arm back in and cycle the suspension with no springs in the rear. I'll be able to see if that is the set of holes that I've been using or not then.

 

thats where mine hits, mine is just a slight rub though, hasnt moved the metal yet

 

One other question about the front mount for the torque arm. I was looking at the Jegster torque arm and saw that it has a sliding link up front where one tube fits inside another. Is there any reason to not use a link like this rather than the way that Spohn does theirs? I was looking at using a 1" solid bar mounted to the crossbar I'm going to make and then use 1.25" X .120 wall tubing on the torque arm. This tubing has an inside diameter of 1.010" giving me .010" clearance. I figured this would be enough clearance to allow movement but tight enough to eliminate slop. I would put a grease fitting in the tube also.

The main reason I was considering this mount is because it seems like it would be easier to make for what I'm trying to do. I can also get the solid tubing for free and the other tubing is really cheap online. The tubing is also chromoly. The tubing adapter is chromoly as well and I can TIG weld so the weld would be aswell.

Edit: After looking at Spohns website, my torque arm is made of 1.25" .120 wall tubing so I could just cut off the tubing adapter they weld on at the front and just let the solid 1" bar slide in and out of the arm without making a front piece for that.