k, for starters, I did a t-5 swap and found out my first gear/ syncro and slider were trashed, so now its rebuilt with less than 300miles on it. Now it shifts hard but I figure its just breaking in the springs/keys/etc.. My biggest problem is I have to stomp the pedal ALL the way to the floor for a smooth shift. I've tried bleeding the crap out of the slave cylinder and not getting any air. Also when i first get going it will shift real good but after a little throttle and the car warms up its almost impossible to get a smooth shift, its really jerky and slams gears, and forget about reverse unless you turn the car off..?????? New flywheel, pressure plate, clutch, and no leaks on the slave cylinder..???? any advice or ideas?
Then I just put in a Auburn posi and 3.73s. Same as the first verse, quiet and smooth at the beginning, then gets louder, clunking and LOUD noises around tight corners unless I do it in a "sideways fashion". I heard these carriers were loud, but holy crap..?

THIRD GENS RULE!!!!

 

The Auburn would have been just about the last choice for me, but because you already have one you will need to use at least 2 bottles of GM oil additive in it. One bottle isn't enough for the Auburn, and if you use anything besides the GM additive it won't work.

You need to bleed the clutch from the bottom up. You can't get the air out by bleading it from the bottom. If you use a bottle of brake fluid with a hose on it and attach it to the bleeder you can pressure blead it from the bottom by opening the bleeder and squeezing the bottle until all of the air comes out the top.

 

those slaves are picky to bleed, Ive found that the best way to bleed them is take the cap off the resevoir, and slowly push, SLOWLY, the slave pushrod back into the cylinder, getting air to the highest point. The other thing, even though your clutch is new, make sure no fingers are bent on the pressure plate, i had an annoying time with my car, clutch would not release, and the fingers on the new pressure plate were bent slightly. Lastly, make sure all tranny and bellhousing bolts are tight.

 

Your problem is not unusual for a T5 swap. The slave cylinder, as mentioned previously, has to be bled backward from the pushrod, as opposed to from the top down. Pumping the pedal and holding it will not get you a good bleed.

You have to push the pedal down, hold it, and then open the bleeder. Then while the pedal is being held down, you push the clutch fork against the pushrod until it seats the piston in the cylinder. This will force air and fluid out the bleeder. Tighten the bleeder, and pump the pedal, making sure to keep fluid in the reservoir.

If you repeat the above steps until you only get clean fluid out of the bleeder, your clutch should give you a friction point at about 2" above the floor. Then you will be good to go.

 

thanks fellers, I hoping to be on the road tommorrow, we'll see if I can't get some of these bugs worked out,

 

fixed!!! found out I had a bent rod on the master cylinder to the pedal, new master cylinder and now it runs like never before!! feels like a whole new car, next step, burnouts, lol

 

I'm glad you found your problem and fixed it. You may want to go easy on the burnouts... as the song goes, "treat 'er like a lady... "