Rear End Switch Questions.
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Car: 1984 Camaro Z28 Clone
Engine: Bored .030, vortec sbc350
Transmission: Built T5 WC
Axle/Gears: 1999 Torsen 4:10 Locker
Rear End Switch Questions.
Hey guys, new to posting but have been a third gen camaro owner for sometime and have been scanning this forum for months.
Currently in my 84' I have a limited Slip 3.08 rear end, from an 86'. With the drum breaks and all that.
I have the opportunity to pick up the performance package irocz rearend out of a 89, which has the disk breaks (i already have disks on the front), posi rear end, and the 3.45 gearing, for almost nothing. Have a few quick questions.
Other then getting the car on a lift, how much work is there to get that rear end pulled out and the new one put in? I know pulling exhaust out of the way ( at least in my case) is gonna need to happen.
What about the rear disks breaks? I already have disks in the front, but will i need to replace the master cylinder because the disk breaks wont need as much pressure?
Also, just for grins, what kind of acceleration difference are we talking between the 3.08 and the 3.45? My top end is ridiculous, and i know i'll lose some of that when I switch, but my acceleration is: "meh" IMO
Thanks guys!
Currently in my 84' I have a limited Slip 3.08 rear end, from an 86'. With the drum breaks and all that.
I have the opportunity to pick up the performance package irocz rearend out of a 89, which has the disk breaks (i already have disks on the front), posi rear end, and the 3.45 gearing, for almost nothing. Have a few quick questions.
Other then getting the car on a lift, how much work is there to get that rear end pulled out and the new one put in? I know pulling exhaust out of the way ( at least in my case) is gonna need to happen.
What about the rear disks breaks? I already have disks in the front, but will i need to replace the master cylinder because the disk breaks wont need as much pressure?
Also, just for grins, what kind of acceleration difference are we talking between the 3.08 and the 3.45? My top end is ridiculous, and i know i'll lose some of that when I switch, but my acceleration is: "meh" IMO
Thanks guys!
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Car: 1989 RS,1991 Z28
Engine: TargetMaster 350, L98 350
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt posi 2.73s, and 3.23s
Re: Rear End Switch Questions.
swapping your drum to a disc brake setup isnt hard at all. what you need is a proprtional valve available from jegs for less than 50 bucks. this will control the bias from front to rear. im going to be putting in a posi out of my brothers 91RS and this also has discs as i have drums now on my 89RS. youll have to remove the muffler, and unbolt the rearend, the shocks from it the driveshaft, panhard bar if your using the one on your car now, and itll be pretty striaght forward. youll like the 3.42s but it wont make a HUGE difference with what your already using. hopefully this helps.
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Re: Rear End Switch Questions.
The exhaust is not in the way. Shouldn't need to touch it AT ALL, unless somebody hilljacked it UNDERNEATH the axle. In which case, you might as well replace it while you're there, anyway; it's pretty much trash, at that point.
Other than that, just rotate the hardware counterclockwise to remove. Installation is the reverse of removal. I'm REALLY slow, and I can swap the rear in my car in about 1½ hours, laying on the floor; so since you're probably faster than me all-around (about everybody is), and have a lift, you should be able to do it in about 20 minutes if you take your time and work carefully.
The hydraulic requirements of the PBR calipers are about the same as drums. In fact, in some (later) years, the prop valve is THE SAME PART #, from the factory, for both drum and PBR disc cars. You don't need to do anything to it; but it wouldn't hurt to get a new one, in which case I'd suggest getting the stock one for a 91-92 car. If your car had come with discs, thenyou'd have to change it, since the Saginaw discs are very different, hydraulically, from the PBRs; but drums, not so much.
Other than that, just rotate the hardware counterclockwise to remove. Installation is the reverse of removal. I'm REALLY slow, and I can swap the rear in my car in about 1½ hours, laying on the floor; so since you're probably faster than me all-around (about everybody is), and have a lift, you should be able to do it in about 20 minutes if you take your time and work carefully.
The hydraulic requirements of the PBR calipers are about the same as drums. In fact, in some (later) years, the prop valve is THE SAME PART #, from the factory, for both drum and PBR disc cars. You don't need to do anything to it; but it wouldn't hurt to get a new one, in which case I'd suggest getting the stock one for a 91-92 car. If your car had come with discs, thenyou'd have to change it, since the Saginaw discs are very different, hydraulically, from the PBRs; but drums, not so much.
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Re: Rear End Switch Questions.
You will be installing a BW 9-bolt replacing the stock 10-bolt so you are
installing a good upgrade with the brakes & ratio. Just be aware that you will need the parking brake cables amd proportioning valve from the BW 9-bolt. Also the flare on the brake line will be different (SAE vs Metric) if I remember corrtectly. Other wise it is a very easy swap. Been there and done the same thing 10 yrs ago.
installing a good upgrade with the brakes & ratio. Just be aware that you will need the parking brake cables amd proportioning valve from the BW 9-bolt. Also the flare on the brake line will be different (SAE vs Metric) if I remember corrtectly. Other wise it is a very easy swap. Been there and done the same thing 10 yrs ago.
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Car: 1984 Camaro Z28 Clone
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Re: Rear End Switch Questions.
I'll double check the exhaust, but I am pretty sure it goes over the rear axle, in which case I shouldnt have to do much with it.
So, proportional valve could be of use, and PB cables.
I doubt i'll need to switch master cylinder, because my car is a factory drum break car and what i am understanding the pressures are about the same for the disks.
@DRock89RS I am surprised you said there wouldn't be much difference. I figured with the higher ratio, posi rear end and all I would get a nice acceleration boost.
So, proportional valve could be of use, and PB cables.
I doubt i'll need to switch master cylinder, because my car is a factory drum break car and what i am understanding the pressures are about the same for the disks.
@DRock89RS I am surprised you said there wouldn't be much difference. I figured with the higher ratio, posi rear end and all I would get a nice acceleration boost.
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