A 1984 or a 1987 (700R4), those are my two options for I would like the overdrive for highway use from time to time. Parts that I was wanting to use were a "Monster in a box ss package" from monster transmission..

http://monstertrans.com/store/produc...87%252d93.html

A Full Manual Valve Body.

 

If you're looking to shoot questions off someone I'd contact Dana over at Pro-Built Automatics. Dana has always been excellent at answering questions and giving feedback even if he knows he's not going to get a sell out of a person. That's just the kind of guy he is.

That being said I believe the later shell is stronger.

Full Manual would be a pain if you drive on the street a lot. IMO you can't beat a nicely done valve body with TransGo Shift Kit and corvette servo and boost valves for street use.

I use a pro ratchet and I've had good luck with it. The Megashifter liked to not get the reverse lockup t handle to recess correctly leaving it open to hit reverse. The only issue I had with the pro ratchet is the bracket they sent me was way to large for the gear selector shaft on the transmission. I ended up having to use the OEM bracket as a spacer to make the arm bolt down tight. Otherwise the new arm had a good 1"+ slop in it.

B&M Converters are in the low end of market also. Most companies recommend a 9" or 9.5" converter. This is because it's less rotating weight which produces less stress on parts. There is another benefict also. The smaller converters have higher torque multiplier too. I've ran an ACT and have been happy with it. Plenty of people have had problems with the ACT and even Dana dropped them at one time and only carried the Precision Industires converters.

Another thing to think about would be are you going to want converter lockup. I dealed with a 700-r4 with 3.27s without lockup for a few months and that was enough for me to put together a cheap kit to get lockup again. If you want lockup that'll also have to be supported by the converter and transmission choice.

 

Thanks for the input, I'll look up this guy/transmission place you speak of. Conveter will need to have lockup. Im not looking for just an automatic valve body, would settle for a automatic/manual so I could have control over shift points without that "shift delay" at high rpm or under heavy load but the only ones I could find so far were just automatic valve boies and full maual valve bodies. Sourcing parts is more difficult than putting all of it together. (at least for me)

 

No difference in the 84 and the 87 - unless the 1987 was a late year production model. In mid 1987 they beefed up internals some, so the later 1987+ years are better. There's an article in the tech section or the FAQ section about it, and how to tell the difference between the older and the newer (think it's in FAQ www.thirdgen.org/faq).

Personally, I'm weary of anything Monster after reading some reviews here and elsewhere. I mean if you were ordering their parts, and they gauranteed all new parts, maybe. But alot of those places have a bad rep for installing crap parts and used junk in their off-the-shelf rebuilds. If I didn't have cash on hand to just pay Dana for a Pro-Built Automatic tranny, I'd ask him for a parts list then go to a reputable parts seller to get same quality parts.

 

The idea of a ratchet shifter with automatic valve body is so you can bump it and control the shifting yourself without missing a gear when you want it as long as you're above the weights or you can just put it in OD and let it shift itself.

Dana set mine up with Transgo Kit, Corvette servo and boost valves, full WOT upshift into OD, no kickdown out of OD (meaning I can go WOT if I wanted in OD). The weights in mine were slightly off which I never got a replacement afterwards they were set around 3200 RPM upshifts or so. I now use a ratchet shifter anyways so I know it'll upshift if I bump the shifter.

 

how do you get the WOT overdrive? what do you need to do? Im looking to rebuild my trans and right now im just tryin to wade through all of the propaganda

 

I believe the WOT Overdrive upshift is most commonly called a B4C upshift valve. I think it's mainly a different sleeve and plunger that gets installed into the valve body. B4C was really a police package code, but from what I've read on here they came with that upshift valve installed so most people refer to that function as B4C.

I imagine for the WOT in OD without downshifting that's just blocking a passage. I'm really not sure as I took the rookie way out and just paid Dana the cash to do it for me. I've been very pleased with it and it's held 7000 RPM shifts so far.

If you're in the market for rebuild parts, information guides, or just some support I would highly recommend calling Dana. He not only sells full transmissions but rebuild kits, or individuals parts. He's a great guy.