Sick92

I picked up a 95 z28 posi, auto rear end with 80k on it this last week, with disc brakes, came with trailing arms, etc.

Now I have been doing alot of research, and I have a series 2 carrier. I went on summit and put together a parts list, and was wondering if someone who has done this before can lead me in the right direction.

(I'm actually waiting to see if anyone has a coupon code before I order)

Here's my list though:
I needed a brass hammer , so might as well order one too lol.
But, in the ring/pinion installation kit, it says axle seals and bearings are not included, I've never installed/removed those before, nor rebuilt a rear end, so is there any special tools I should use for this, or is there anything I am missing?

Maybe theres a thread or something I overlooked somewhere someone knows of.

Thanks

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

You don't need the marking compound; comes in the kit.

I'd STRONGLY suggest a crush speeve replacement http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RAT-4111/ , and 2 extra pinion bearings, so you can hone the inside bores of them out, so they'll slip on and off the pinion easily, so you can do all your depth setting and whatnot with those and then when every thing is right, put the others on the last time before buttoning it up.

I'd also STONGLY recommend a new set of axles http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SAG-EV10-5/ which comes with wheel studs bearings & seals, a girdle type cover with cap studs http://www.taperformance.com/proddet...prod=TA%5F1809 , LCARBs http://www.spohn.net/shop/1982-1992-...tion-Brackets/ , and having the tubes welded into the pumpkin all the way around (and the leaky OE plug welds filled in) while being held PERFECTLY STRAIGHT with a jig.

But, given that the carrier is AT BEST a crappy Auburn if it's still stock, you might want to rethink the idea of using it at all, and just start out with a new carrier http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ETN-19599-010/ and a set of the right gears instead of the "conversion" ones. Yeah, it might look kinda $$$ NOW, but you'll feel REALLY stooopid when you spend all that other money and effort and put it all back together, and discover that your existing one is wore out like they about always are, and now you're STUCK WITH finding another 2 series one to go in there, and you then discover that there ARE NO replacement ones like that, so all you can do is put back in ANOTHER WORE OUT stock one.... repeat endlessly...

Sick92

Good call on the extra pinion bearings for easy adjustment. Hasn't been the first time I heard someone suggesting having the tubes (re-)welded? Why

If I do everything you suggested, I will be spending close to $1500,.....def out of the question. lol If the carrier could be "crappy" and I end up having to get a 3 series, I could then just order a 3 series gearset with the spacer, correct?

I'm interested in why you suggested the LCARBs? and Axles? A stock ls1 going to snap axles with 80k on them?

AlkyIROC

That's why we're always suggesting to just upgrade to something like a 9" or a 12 bolt. By the time you're done trying to upgrade the 10 bolt diff to be a little stronger, you still have the tiny ring and pinion and for roughly the same price, you can get a better diff.

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

Not sure what you're asking here...

Unless you know where to get a spacer that TAKES SPACE OUT instead of PUTTING SPACE IN, that won't help. There used to be; but the store that had those spacers, along with the drill bits that make square holes and the bolts that allow putting a 12.8" starter on blocks that only have the holes for 14" starters, went out of business some time back. I think the owners maybe went back to Zeta Reticuli.

You use a spacer to put 3 series gears onto a 2 series carrier, to make up for the fact that the lower the numerical ratio, the larger the pinion is (since the ratio is NOT ONLY the ratio of teeth count, BUT ALSO the ratio of gear diameter, and since the ring dia is always the same, then as ratio goes down, the pinion gets larger). Here's the difference in the carriers; 2 on the left, 3 on the right. Note how the ring gear flange on the 3 series is about 3/8" closer to the pinion than the 2 series: you put a spacer in to make up that difference. No way to go the other way.



Doesn't make alot of sense to order the "special" gears now, then discover the instant the rear hits the street that the posi is shot like they about always are, then order a 3 series carrier and regular gears TOO does it?

I suggest LCARBs because they are CHEEEP and EEEEEEZIE to do right now; alot harder to do later. It would suck to spend all this other money and do all this work, and then discover the instant the rear hits the street that the rear suspsension geometry is defective just like it came from the factory and the car wheel-hops, and THEN have to deal with it after the fact. Eh?

Axles are CHEEEEEEP. You'll see why I suggest getting new ones when you pull your old ones out. Has nothing to do with "snapping".

I should also mention, you'll want to make yourself a tool.



This allows you to put as much torque as you want on the pinion nut; pretty easy to get 200 - 250 ft-lbs on it.

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

And, to Alky's point, I agree completely with him. The rear you have is too far away from the rear you want, to be cost-effective to do all that to it, which in order to avoid the thing being an ongoing money pit and source of endless future tasks, you need to just do and get it over with, instead of dragging it out a piece here and a piece there over a long period of time and buying several of the items in question over and over again. I.e. if it was a 98-up rear with the Z-T 3 series carrier and the better brakes, it would make more sense; but to sink THAT MUCH money into a 10-bolt with the inferior parking brake system, doesn't make alot of sense in this day and time. By the time you get to the end of this road, you'll already have sunk into your 10-bolt 2/3 of the money it would take to get a 12-bolt; but you'll still only have a 10-bolt, and you'll still be just as far away as you ever were from a 12-bolt.