Lets talk clutches
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Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 10
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From: Abbotsford BC Canada
Car: 1985 Trans am
Engine: 355ci, 91 TPI set up.
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.23
Lets talk clutches
For all you manual transmissions out there, I want to get some more information out there about what you're all driving on. What kind of clutch did you put it your cars? What brand did you choose and why? What material is it made of? What advantages do different materials have?
I'm planning on doing a 305 to 350 swap in my car, and am having troubles deciding what type of clutch to put in. I will be driving it daily, so city and highway. I'm also admittedly not very experienced at driving stick as a daily driver, so it will go through quite the beating!
Looking for any advice, and just some general opinions and information! Anything would be helpful and appreciated.
I'm planning on doing a 305 to 350 swap in my car, and am having troubles deciding what type of clutch to put in. I will be driving it daily, so city and highway. I'm also admittedly not very experienced at driving stick as a daily driver, so it will go through quite the beating!

Looking for any advice, and just some general opinions and information! Anything would be helpful and appreciated.
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 2,777
Likes: 7
From: Casselberry, FLA
Car: 88 V6 'bird/89TBI bird/85 T/A
Engine: 2.8/TBI/TPI
Transmission: V8 T-5/700R4 x2
Axle/Gears: 3.42 open/2.73 open/ 3.27 9 bolt
Re: Lets talk clutches
My only issue with clutches is the application; if its just daily driver stuff I like the OEM style clutch the best. If its a high power option, I use a button type clutch disk (it seems to be more shaped like a star with little "buttons" of clutch disk material sticking out from the center, instead of the regular circle kind like the OEM clutches use.)
If I'm driving my old Firebird everywhere, all the time (like I like to) I am not going to put in some heavy Centerforce super HD clutch setup. I am only using that stuff for lots of racing.
If you're new, then a stock clutch for an IROC with a TPI engine should do great.
If I'm driving my old Firebird everywhere, all the time (like I like to) I am not going to put in some heavy Centerforce super HD clutch setup. I am only using that stuff for lots of racing.
If you're new, then a stock clutch for an IROC with a TPI engine should do great.
Junior Member

Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 32
Likes: 1
From: NH
Car: 1985 Z28
Engine: 350
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: 3.23
Re: Lets talk clutches
I agree with Krisw. I only do street driving and have a mild 350 and I have an oem clutch made my valeo. (Bought at autozone) That does the trick for me at this time.
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Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 862
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Car: 92 25th anv camaro rs
Engine: 305 tbi
Axle/Gears: 3.08s non posi
Re: Lets talk clutches
i also agree i have a 305/t-5 and the autozone clutch, umm the duralast brand. i chose that b/c 1 worked there so discount but 2 lifetime warrenty, and im by no means "nice" to my clutch. i also recommend oem brand UNLESS you put some serious power down, then you will need a better clutch to handle it.
but if it facotry power, little more, then stick with the oem brand, like 100 bucks from autozone with lifetime warrenty (meaning when you need a new clutch, walk in and replace it free) it what i recommend, exspecially since your new to it, why waste 300 bucks every clutch rather then 100 bucks one time.
but if it facotry power, little more, then stick with the oem brand, like 100 bucks from autozone with lifetime warrenty (meaning when you need a new clutch, walk in and replace it free) it what i recommend, exspecially since your new to it, why waste 300 bucks every clutch rather then 100 bucks one time.
Member
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 102
Likes: 0
From: Outside of Austin TX
Car: 92 GMC K2500 LD
Engine: 350 TBI with some mods
Transmission: NV4500
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Re: Lets talk clutches
I agree with these guys. If it is a mild engine and you want a forgiving clutch a stock one is fine maybe one step up from stock with better disk materials. I am running a 6 puck ceramic clutch in my truck but I wanted maximum holding power for towing. It isn't nearly as forgiving as a stock organic clutch. It is pretty much off and on.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
From: Abbotsford BC Canada
Car: 1985 Trans am
Engine: 355ci, 91 TPI set up.
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.23
Re: Lets talk clutches
Helpful! Haven't yet purchased anything, but that does narrow down my choices quite a lot. With the reading I did online, I did hear that the really high end, or racing clutches were terrible for driving. Like Seafarer12 said, on off switch. Not a suitable daily driver!
After the swap, my car should be putting out about 1 horsepower /cubic inch (so about 350) says the engine builder, I will be having it put on the dyno.
With that being said, would a stock or simmilar to (most likely NAPA or lordco... canadas autozone) clutch still be suitable?
After the swap, my car should be putting out about 1 horsepower /cubic inch (so about 350) says the engine builder, I will be having it put on the dyno.
With that being said, would a stock or simmilar to (most likely NAPA or lordco... canadas autozone) clutch still be suitable?
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 2,777
Likes: 7
From: Casselberry, FLA
Car: 88 V6 'bird/89TBI bird/85 T/A
Engine: 2.8/TBI/TPI
Transmission: V8 T-5/700R4 x2
Axle/Gears: 3.42 open/2.73 open/ 3.27 9 bolt
Re: Lets talk clutches
Since you are admittedly a novice with standard shift cars, I'd still opt for the stock clutch, especially if you get one with a warranty.
Think of the clutch more like a fuse on a high amp electric circuit, in your case. If you run a strong clutch, and you say you're going to have plenty of power, you risk damaging your rear axle, driveshaft, mounts, etc... if you are a new driver! Even with stock clutch parts I pounded a rear end into dust with my 87 Formula and a 305 TPI just being really hard on it.
The stock clutch will be your best release for damage while you are learning to handle the car with a clutch pedal. Once you get good at driving it, by all means step up a notch to a firmer grip.
Just my two cents...
Think of the clutch more like a fuse on a high amp electric circuit, in your case. If you run a strong clutch, and you say you're going to have plenty of power, you risk damaging your rear axle, driveshaft, mounts, etc... if you are a new driver! Even with stock clutch parts I pounded a rear end into dust with my 87 Formula and a 305 TPI just being really hard on it.
The stock clutch will be your best release for damage while you are learning to handle the car with a clutch pedal. Once you get good at driving it, by all means step up a notch to a firmer grip.
Just my two cents...
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Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 20
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Car: 1992 RS Camaro
Engine: 305 soon to be 383
Transmission: Richmond -6
Axle/Gears: 4:10 with Auburn locker
Re: Lets talk clutches
There are several packages to select from. I'm currently running the centerforce set up. It's not the most aggressive one they offer but it's kinda the best of both worlds. Very user friendly for street. I will occasionally take a trip down the strip from time to time and it's seems to take the hammering with ease. However I do agree with the OE set up and its cheaper.
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Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 2,027
Likes: 33
From: Washington State
Car: 1983 BB 1995 Z28 Camaro's
Engine: 454-350
Transmission: TH350-4l60e
Axle/Gears: 373 posi-Stock
Re: Lets talk clutches
The last time I bought one in came with a pressure plate and throw out bearing. I did not buy it at AZ and the throw out bearing was real noisy right from the get go. Drove me nuts so take a close look at that.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
From: Abbotsford BC Canada
Car: 1985 Trans am
Engine: 355ci, 91 TPI set up.
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.23
Re: Lets talk clutches
Well I looked into a few different ones... everything on Summit racing is expensive! Also is the reason I started this post, because there were SO many to choose from, and prices ranged from $75 to $700... I had no Idea where to start!
After checking out Napa (I get a discount there) their OEM grade clutches are between $230 to $350. Seemed ok to me, however most of them only have a 90 day warranty, and only one of them had a 1year warranty. I may not even need it, but I thought I should be covered for paying that much.
So as advised, I checked out auto-zone. Lifetime warrenty, OEM grade, $113, that sounds better! Only catch to this, is 1.5 hours and about 90km (or 57 miles... being canadian up here) away. Sounds quite like it's worth the drive, however I haven't checked out all my local options.
Thanks for all the input so far! Great help!!
After checking out Napa (I get a discount there) their OEM grade clutches are between $230 to $350. Seemed ok to me, however most of them only have a 90 day warranty, and only one of them had a 1year warranty. I may not even need it, but I thought I should be covered for paying that much.
So as advised, I checked out auto-zone. Lifetime warrenty, OEM grade, $113, that sounds better! Only catch to this, is 1.5 hours and about 90km (or 57 miles... being canadian up here) away. Sounds quite like it's worth the drive, however I haven't checked out all my local options.
Thanks for all the input so far! Great help!!
Supreme Member




Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 2,027
Likes: 33
From: Washington State
Car: 1983 BB 1995 Z28 Camaro's
Engine: 454-350
Transmission: TH350-4l60e
Axle/Gears: 373 posi-Stock
Re: Lets talk clutches
Once again to many choices and prices, sometimes the one that is not the most expensive well be just right.
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 84
Likes: 0
From: Maynardville, TN
Car: 1991 RS Camaro w/ Factory T-Tops
Engine: Built 355 ci SBC w/ Carb
Transmission: Borg Warner T-5
Axle/Gears: 4.10 with Posi-Trac
Re: Lets talk clutches
I put 198K on my factory clutch in my '91 RS. The only reason I swapped it when I did is because I swapped the engine, and saw no point in taking the transmission out twice. Currently I've got a Centerforce in it. It's not the most aggressive, but it's definitely a step up from stock, which is what I was looking for.
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 20
Likes: 0
Car: 1992 RS Camaro
Engine: 305 soon to be 383
Transmission: Richmond -6
Axle/Gears: 4:10 with Auburn locker
Re: Lets talk clutches
Just a FYI while you're at it now is a good time to replace the rear main seal while you have the tranny out. Good luck with the project and hope it goes well
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 20
Likes: 0
Car: 1992 RS Camaro
Engine: 305 soon to be 383
Transmission: Richmond -6
Axle/Gears: 4:10 with Auburn locker
Re: Lets talk clutches
Same set up here with the dual friction Centerforce. So far I've been pleased. How do you like the set up in your 91' camaro?
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
From: phoenix az
Car: 86 camaro iroc z
Engine: 383sbc
Transmission: t-5 speed
Axle/Gears: n/a
Re: Lets talk clutches
i would also like to knw what kind of perfromance clutch can i get for my nwc t-5 for my camaro i need the whole kit trying to stay in the 250$ and under... what would be the best?
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 84
Likes: 0
From: Maynardville, TN
Car: 1991 RS Camaro w/ Factory T-Tops
Engine: Built 355 ci SBC w/ Carb
Transmission: Borg Warner T-5
Axle/Gears: 4.10 with Posi-Trac
Re: Lets talk clutches
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 268
Likes: 13
From: NY
Car: 87 Trans Am GTA
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.27
Re: Lets talk clutches
I will also agree with all the guys above that said to go with a stock clutch if you're mainly going to be doing daily driving. I threw a Spec Stage 3 clutch along with a lightweight aluminum flywheel in my car because it's what came with my T56 when I bought it. I know how to drive stick, but the Spec 3 was my first time driving a race style puck clutch. I hated it... it grabs extremely hard and will beat up your drivetrain pretty hard. Made me feel like I was learning how to drive stick again. I still have it in the car and I'm used to it now, but it is not forgiving and it's extremely easy to stall the car. Friend of mine who drives an 83 Camaro with a 350 and T5 in auto-x tried my car and got freaked out.
Moral of the story, stay away from the race clutches unless you're going to be doing some serious track work.
Moral of the story, stay away from the race clutches unless you're going to be doing some serious track work.
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